Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide

Picked up an PRI Adjustable gas block today


seasprite

Recommended Posts

Had a gun show come into town today and they had alot of AR parts for sale at this one. I decided to see if I could find an adjustable gas block and one of the vendors had the PRI 0.750" ID adjustable gas block for $75.00 so I took a chance on it. Do any of you guy's use the PRI hows it run? I plan on using it on my DPMS Oracle LR-308 with an 16" barrel and carbine gas system.

Any tips on how to install, looks pretty straight forward as far as that goes or is there anything I need to look out for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the PRI on one of my AR's. Installation is no different than any other lo pr GB. What i did with mine was to get a longer adjustment set screw, and a very small nut, that way I adjusted it and then tightened the nut to lock the adjustment, instead of relying on locktite. Don't really think it matters all that much though. I consider it to be better suited to adjusting the gas once an leaving it alone, than for using it to adjust back and forth between suppressed and unsuppressed operation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I installed my PRI gas block today and almost screwed the pooch  :o. The instructions said that I might have to fit the gas tube to the block and I had to, so I was sanding and test fitting the gas tube got stuck in the block. I was like well its part way in maybe I can tap it in the rest of the way  :hornet: wrong. After wedging it in tighter than a frogs butt I realized I was in trouble. (hate that feeling that you get when you really screwed up) After my senses came back to me I inserted a drill bit just slightly smaller than the hole for gas tube the in the opposite end and drove the gas tube out problem averted  :-[ . Finished fitting the gas tube to the block with out any other problems.

When I installed the gas block on the barrel only one of the set screw holes lined up and the hand guard retainer has some play in it since the block didn't push up against the retainer. Thought about putting a spacer in there but I plan on putting a free float rail on sometime this winter so I left it be for now I don't see it causing any problems.

So thats how my day went how was yours?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you talking about the set screws lining up with the taper pin slots ? If so , you would have been lucky if they did line up .

Set the gas block , so as to eliminate any play in the hand guard retainer , ( if you are using it ) & make marks for relieving the barrel for the GB set screws . Small indentations are all you need .

Some gas blocks are not intended to be used with hand guard retainers. May alter gas port alignment.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brother seasprite even a bad day building a rifle is still better than a day at work. ;) <laughs>

Oh how true, I'd rather be doing about anything besides humping boxes at work. <laughs>

By the way I changed out 14 quarts of trany fluid from my truck without a single problem figures those little gremlins :leghump: would show up when working on the rifle.

Are you talking about the set screws lining up with the taper pin slots ? If so , you would have been lucky if they did line up .

Set the gas block , so as to eliminate any play in the hand guard retainer , ( if you are using it ) & make marks for relieving the barrel for the GB set screws . Small indentations are all you need .

Some gas blocks are not intended to be used with hand guard retainers. May alter gas port alignment.

Not a 100% sure what your saying on the taper pin slots, my OE gas block had 2 set screws screwed into a couple of shallow holes drilled into the barrel holding the gas block in place along with a roll pin holding the gas tube to the block. One of the shallow holes lined up with the PRI set screws  plus the gas port was lined up too used compressed air to confirm this. The other set screw was in front of the other shallow hole not lined up should I make an indentation for this one or is one set screw in the mounting hole good enough to hold in place?

I have more to say but I have to run off to a birthday lunch so I'll finish when I get back.

Well I'm back now the only other thing I had to say was I don't think this gas block was designed to hold the retainer like you said the gas port wouldn't line up if I did. Its a lot smaller than the OE gas block in about every dimension I can think of thats why I was thinking of putting a spacer between the gas block and the retainer until I get my free float rail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you had a set screw attached gas block from the start , not an std. A2 sight . Still that manufacturers gas block holding screws , will most likely ,not line up with another manufacturers set up .

Yes, mark it and put a dimple in the barrel like the others . Just make sure the gas ports are lined up , blowing air through the ports could only mean they are close or on the money . Measuring is the only way to know for sure .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you had a set screw attached gas block from the start , not an std. A2 sight . Still that manufacturers gas block holding screws , will most likely ,not line up with another manufacturers set up .

Yes, mark it and put a dimple in the barrel like the others . Just make sure the gas ports are lined up , blowing air through the ports could only mean they are close or on the money . Measuring is the only way to know for sure .

Thanks, for all your help survivalshop, I'll defiantly check everything out that you mentioned. I was wondering what would use the taper pins that you mentioned earlier so the A2 sight does thanks again <thumbsup>.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I finally got out to the range today to tune the gas block took 5 full turns to get it to cycle the 175gr PPU ammo that I had plus I ran some of my reloads through the rifle as well. I can tell you it made one heck of a difference on the way my brass was looking when it ejected the rims no longer are bent and no dings on the case neck plus the ejector swipes have disappeared. Since the brass now ejects at the 4:00 position now it bounces of the booth wall where I can just reach down and pick it up instead out in front of the booth where I had to wait for a cease fire to go get my brass before somebody else claimed it as there own. I just locktighted the set screw for now while I think of something more user friendly like what Jgun did. Later on this year I'm going to put a free float rail on here and would like access to the adjustment screw if its ever needed.

 

post-1747-136297281697_thumb.jpg

post-1747-13629728171_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another idea I saw on another forum is to drill and tap from above down to the adjustment screw hole and put in a set screw to hold it, without locktite, makes it easier to adjust.

Maybe drill holes in the free float tube to access the screws ?

Sounds like another good idea jeffreyC thats what I like about these rifles there's so much that you can do to them that your only limited by your imagination. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...