Carbon Firer Handguard for LR308B

[concretus]

Hello,

  I've been kicking around the idea of replacing the handguard on my LR308B it came with for the carbon fiber ones DPMS offers. Does anyone have this on a rifle? How do you like/dislike it? Sorry for the dumb question but can you drill and tap it for mounting a rail or do you have to use screw and nut?

[Robocop1051]

Unfortunately, you can't tap carbon fiber.

If you were crafty and creative, you could tap a length of metal (steel is thinner) and use that as a backing for the mounting screws. It's just a matter drilling holes at the exact 12 o'clock.

Lots of companies make extended rails; PRI and Apex are two off the top of my head.

[concretus]

Unfortunately, you can't tap carbon fiber.

If you were crafty and creative, you could tap a length of metal (steel is thinner) and use that as a backing for the mounting screws. It's just a matter drilling holes at the exact 12 o'clock.

Lots of companies make extended rails; PRI and Apex are two off the top of my head.

Thank you! It's a start that it can be done!!!

[Ben Diss]

No problem attaching a rail.  I use carbon hand guards on all my AR's.  I prefer Magpul rails.  I grind the mount side concave with a 2" sanding drum.  Drill a couple of holes and you're good to go.

[IM_JOHNNYV]

Just some food for thought. If you install a Carbon Fiber hand guard it will be a one time shot, since they are glued in place. Should you want barrel work done down the road, you have to cut it off and start all over again. Just my 2¢

[Robocop1051]

Only the DPMS tube is like that. There are other CF tubes that have normal installations. Loki and Christensen are two examples.

[concretus]

Just some food for thought. If you install a Carbon Fiber hand guard it will be a one time shot, since they are glued in place. Should you want barrel work done down the road, you have to cut it off and start all over again. Just my 2¢

I didn't know that! Thank you for the information; I may consider the other manufacturers....

[concretus]

No problem attaching a rail.  I use carbon hand guards on all my AR's.  I prefer Magpul rails.  I grind the mount side concave with a 2" sanding drum.  Drill a couple of holes and you're good to go.

The magpul rail; it is made of composite material?

[unforgiven]

Magpul rails are great with the blind nut you can put the anywhere. <thumbsup>

[Ben Diss]

The magpul rail; it is made of composite material?

Yes.  Some kind of hard plastic.

[blue109]

PRI rail sections already have a concave mounting area designed to fit flush with their 2" diam. carbon tubes. they bolt to a thin steel back plate. heres a pic on my clark customs FF rail. also, instead of glue i drilled and tapped 6 holes (3 sets of 2) around the barrel nut area. it was solid and removable.

[unforgiven]

Nice bro <thumbsup>

[concretus]

PRI rail sections already have a concave mounting area designed to fit flush with their 2" diam. carbon tubes. they bolt to a thin steel back plate. heres a pic on my clark customs FF rail. also, instead of glue i drilled and tapped 6 holes (3 sets of 2) around the barrel nut area. it was solid and removable.

Very Nice!!! So the barrel nut and handguard is smooth and not threaded?

[blue109]

Correct. It is a tight fit...and the screws make it pretty sturdy..but not as stiff as if it were glued. I wouldnt use iirons for any sort of precision work. There was a tiny bit of deflection if I pushed on the tube. would most likely loose some accuracy if shooting from a bag or bipod. The irons were strictly backup on that gun so I didnt sweat it.

[concretus]

So what size set screw did you drill and tap for?

[Robocop1051]

Whatever size you use, make sure you use a sharp bit designed for high speed cutting. Cutting carbon fiber can be a real MF'er. A diamond bit or a glass cutter might work better than a standard wood bit. It also helps to cover the spot you're drilling with a bit of tape first. It will hold the loose fibers better.

I drilled a few CF parts for my wife's ATV. Big time PITA.

[concretus]

Whatever size you use, make sure you use a sharp bit designed for high speed cutting. Cutting carbon fiber can be a real MF'er. A diamond bit or a glass cutter might work better than a standard wood bit. It also helps to cover the spot you're drilling with a bit of tape first. It will hold the loose fibers better.

I drilled a few CF parts for my wife's ATV. Big time PITA.

Would a cobalt bit work?

[Ben Diss]

I've never had a problem drilling CF, and I've gone it extensively working with model airplanes and boats.  Couple things to keep in mind.  One is the fibers will splinter when the bit exits, so if you can, back it with something.  Use a higher speed with less force.  Second is that CF dust is like asbestos.  Once it's in your lungs it stays.  Keep your work piece wet with oil or water and wear a respirator.  If you smell it, you're inhaling it.

Having said all that, don't get scare away from working with CF.  Once you've done a couple jobs with it, you'll understand how to work with it and see that's it no harder than any other material.

[cowboyarcher]

I'm also looking into the CF handguards, are there any other options to consider other than those listed here? I think the DPMS option w/ screws rather than glue maybe what I pursure. . . As far as I can tell, the DPMS is in it's own class as far as price goes?

[EasyEJL]

PRI makes some fantastic ones (the Delta is my favorite) but the prices are also fairly fantastic as in big.

[cowboyarcher]

This is not CF, but is still very light for aluminum:

 

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2852340543/samson-evolution-series-customizable-free-float-handguard-dpms-lr-308-with-low-profile-upper-receiver-aluminum-black

 

Listed at 11.5 oz in a Samson catalog I found for the 12.5" model:

 

http://www.samson-mfg.com/manuals/Samson_2012.pdf

 

That's lighter than the Troy 12" TRX at 12.15 oz. . .