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Friends,

 

I am running a DPMS LR-308T and recently switched from the smooth-sided high-profile receiver to the low-profile receiver with forward assist.

 

On the forward-facing side of the forward-assist housing, I am getting an accumulation of "brass dust" while shooting. It comes off easily with just a finger rub.

 

At the same time, I am getting dents like this on all my spent brass. Click on the pic for a larger version:

 

post-13893-0-92619800-1402862522_thumb.j

 

In the picture, the dent is the area on the shoulder, slightly on the left side of the picture, that looks like an inverted teardrop, or triangle. It's not a deep dent, but can easily be both seen and felt with a finger.

 

First off, does this mean my rifle is overgassed, or something like that? I'm thinking the spent brass is hitting the forward assist housing on the way out, but it runs flawlessly.

 

Second, is this spent brass reloadable, or is it toast?

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Load it and shoot it - next time you pull the trigger on it, it will fire-form to the chamber anyway.  Blow that dent right out.

 

It's hitting the brass deflector, and it's normal. 

Yep, you don't get that many loads from a semi before the rims are trashed anyway, overworking the shoulders has not been an issue for me, fire away!

I suppose if your after match grade accuracy it might make a very slight difference in pressures, maybe a brass catcher would stop the issue????

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Yep, you don't get that many loads from a semi before the rims are trashed anyway, overworking the shoulders has not been an issue for me, fire away!

I suppose if your after match grade accuracy it might make a very slight difference in pressures, maybe a brass catcher would stop the issue? ???

 

Well, here's the deal, on the strength of advice here, I took my once-fired .308 brass over to a local LGS, which is a very small chain, where they have a guy on staff who reloads, and I gave it away as a good-will gesture.

 

I also said that they should advertise taking once-fired brass as a donation, with proceeds to Wounded Warriors. And that people who donated brass would stick around and buy something. The guy seemed impressed with the idea.

 

But he also seemed to be unimpressed because it was not his idea. Oh well. I already got my fun outta that brass.

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SS109, Wolf.

 

Not folded...bent.  Throws it a long LONG way to the 2-2:30 position.  At the county range, 3 or 4 shooting lanes away, maybe 15 yards down range.

 

If you do it right, you can take down aggressors at two distances, while aiming the muzzle at the one further away.

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Brass was never intended to be reused , us reloaders just like to stretch there usefulness .

 

LOL.. Stretching it indeed. How long do they normally last?

 

 

I'm up to reload #7 on my lake city brass and so far only one small crack in one case neck. I do anneal every couple of reloads, not sure if that makes a difference.

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  Load it till you no longer feel safe with it , that do contain a small explosion in the chamber, so safety first. I now anneal brass also after a couple of reloading's , seems to me the bullet seating pressure is more uniform & that can only be good for accuracy . Not to mention, as you said , brass's length of service.

  This stuff is not getting any cheaper or easier to find .

 

 

SS109, Wolf.

 

Not folded...bent.  Throws it a long LONG way to the 2-2:30 position.  At the county range, 3 or 4 shooting lanes away, maybe 15 yards down range.

 

If you do it right, you can take down aggressors at two distances, while aiming the muzzle at the one further away.

 

  I've neve used Wolf brand or any steel cased ammo & mine does send the spent brass into the next county though .This rifle I have is the most accurate AK , I have ever shot .

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  • 2 months later...

Something I read in my Lyman's reloading book... 7.62 X 39 was (by them ) NOT considered an accurate round, regardless of what it was shot from, auto, semi auto or bolt action.  I too had a .223 AK, and it was very accurate with the right hand loads.  I converted the SAIGA from that goofy import stock to something more "usefull".  I also had a SAIGA in .308 that was darned accurate as well.  Again, both were AK, but both were not the 7.62 x 39.  I even had difficulty with a Ruger Mini 30 I had to get any kind of decent groups out of it some years ago.

 

Here is a picture of the SAIGA in the .223 before I sold it.  Look REAL close at the dust cover and you'll see I put a car door protector on it at that spot and it reduced the big dent that was very common in my .223 SAIGA and my .308 SAIGA.  That dust cover is the main culprit of damaging brass.  I learned this over at the Saiga forums a few years back.... and the fix for it.

 

Saiga_223-brown.jpg

 

It did pretty well at groups  for an "AK"

 

 

 

 

 

 

223_saiga_8-18-09.jpg

Edited by Gibbs
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