survivalshop

Its why we need photo's all the time .

Barrel nuts like that pictured are supposed to be of smaller diameter so as to let the Gas Tube pass into the Upper Receiver with out restriction . From the looks of the type of Nut , it can be turned down on a lathe to allow Gas Tube clearance with out restriction into the Upper Receiver & keep enough threads for HG clamping Screws. Of course that would all depend on how much the Barrel Nut is restricting the Gas Tube passage . You can also set up the Barrel with proper torque & mark where the passage of the Gas Tube will pass over the Barrel Nut & make clearance for it . Or you can contact the Manufacturer about the issue & or return the item for full refund .

The Rule ! I have never heard of it , you may be giving us a full report on it if no one has used one before .

AllI have to say is good luck , just one measurement a little off & you will most likely have issues . it would be nice if you could find someone with the Jig you could barrow or get the measurements from .

Its true that they can refuse for a valid reason , like potential Straw purchase , but if the salesperson thought that the women was a Straw purchaser for the man & then the Man offered to use his credentials to purchase the Firearm , that pretty much cancels out any reason to void the purchase . They can no longer say their first denial of the purchase is valid . I would lawyer up , because they just discriminated against the women & then the man , thats if they want to go through all that crap , Shotguns are made every day & many other places to purchase them . What I really think is , the last one available for sale in the store & they were saving it for someone in the store or for a friend .

I didn't say you'all couldn't afford to shoot it , I said I couldn't ? Your math is not including the price of a rifle to even shoot that fodder . The last retail price of 338LM I had in my hands was $ 106 for 20, that was the label on the Box it was a few years ago , $ 40 for a box of 20 , is quite a change . Note , i just checked prices of 338 LM ammo , looks like an avg. of $ 2.60 a round , I really cant afford it , that why I never purchased that M2 .50 back when i was an title two dealer & it was only a $ 1 a round back then .?

I have a nice TRW Bolt on the way for my build , next is really going to be the Barrel , honest .? Criterion , medium wt., Stainless Steel , 1-10 twist , 22" Barrel . I chose the first one of these three .

You can have it , your a grown up & can have what ever you want .?

I cant afford to shoot them there 338LM , not many Hunt with it , but the 30'06 ( or 300 WM ) would make a great Hunting rifle , not that the 308 is not , just some like a little more power/range . I load for quite a few who use BAR's in 30'06 for Hunting . Its not always about Tactical , even though you are shooting for Military contracts . If I could get a Upper& Lower that were large enough to handle the 30'06/300WM , I would build a rifle in one or both of those Calibers . RRA did it , but were on the high $$ side , its why they didn't fly .?

How about 30'06 ? ?

What Calibers or just 308 ?

Whats the notch at the Mag Well & Trigger Guard ? Ambi-Bolt release ? What finish do you plan on applying ?

Mr. Zediker & Primers RELOADERS CORNER: PRIMER TECH SEPTEMBER 6, 2018 GLEN ZEDIKER2 COMMENTS It may be the single-most influential reloading component, so learn all about it: the primer! READ MORE Glen Zediker This is one component in the collection that might not get all the attention it warrants. That’s because it is the one thing, above all other components, that you don’t want to just swap and switch around. We’ve all heard cautions about testing new lots of every component, especially propellant, but primers not only change lot to lot, they vary greatly in their influence on any one load, brand to brand. The difference in one brand to the next can equal a good deal more or less pressure, for instance. While there are “general” tendencies respecting the “power” of various-brand primers, always (always) reduce the load (propellant quantity) when switching primers. This has become more of an issue over the past few years as we’ve faced component shortages. I can tell you without a doubt that going from a WW to a CCI, or from a Remington to a Federal, can have a major influence on a load. I establish that from chronograph readings. No doubt, it’s best to have a good supply of one primer brand and lot that produces good results, and when that’s not possible, it’s a hard sell to convince someone to stop loading ammo and get back to testing. But. It is important. I can tell you that from (bad) experience. How I, and we all, learn most things… When I switch primers, whether as a test or a necessity, I reduce my load ONE FULL GRAIN. There can be that much effect. The Thing Itself A primer is made up of a brass cup filled with explosive compound (lead styphate). Lead styphate detonates on impact. Primers don’t burn – they explode! In the manufacturing process, this compound starts as a liquid. After it’s laid into the cup, and while it’s still wet, a triangular piece or metal (the “anvil”) is set in. When the cup surface is struck by the firing pin, the center collapses, squeezing the explosive compound between the interior of the cup and the anvil. That ignites the compound and sends a flame through the case flash hole, which in turn lights up the propellant. Primers are dangerous! Don’t underestimate that. I’ve had one experience that fortunately only created a huge start, but I know others who have had bigger more startling mishaps. These (almost always) come from primer reservoirs, like fill-tubes. Pay close attention when charging up a tube and make sure all the primers are facing the right way, and that you’re not trying to put in “one more” when it’s full! That’s when “it” usually happens. What will happen, by the way, is akin to a small grenade. Static electricity has also been blamed, so keep that in mind. Take care in filling primer tubes! Make double-sure all are facing correctly, and a good primer tray helps. This photo shows the correct orientation for using primers one at a time. To fill a primer tube, make sure the “shiny side” is facing up! Flip the tray over. Sizes and Types Primers come in two sizes and four types. “Large” and “small”: for example, .223 Rem. takes small, .308 Win. takes large. Then there are pistol and rifle in each size. Rifle primers and pistol primers are not the same, even though they share common diameters! Rifle primers should have a tougher cup, and, usually, a hotter flash. Never swap rifle for pistol. Now, some practical-style competitive pistol shooters using their very high-pressure loads (like .38 Super Comp) sometimes substitute rifle primers because they’ll “handle” more pressure, but they’ve also tricked up striker power. That’s a specialized need. Further, some primer brands are available with a “magnum” option. Some aren’t. My experience has been that depends on the “level” of their standard primer. A magnum primer, as you might guess, has a more intense, stouter flash that travels more “deeply” to ignite the larger and more dense powder column. It reaches further, faster. There’s no real reason not to experiment with “hotter” and “colder” primers, whether the case is stamped “mag” or not. Keep in mind that the experiment is all about the initial flash effect. And keep in mind that this (without a doubt) demands a reduction in the propellant charge at the start. Over a many years I’ve seen some tendencies respecting flash effect. Using routine cartridges, like .308 Win., single-base extruded propellants tend to shoot well with a cooler spark to start, and the double-base, especially spherical-types, seem to respond best to a hotter flash. Many seem to think that the coating (necessary to form the spherical) and the inherent greater density (less air space between granules) in a spherical demands a little faster start. Flash consistency is very important, shot to shot. The consistency of every component is important: bullet weights, diameters, case wall thicknesses, and all the way down the list. We’re hoping to get more consistent behavior from a “match” or “benchrest” primer, and we’re paying more for it. I can tell you that some brands that aren’t touted as “match” are already consistent. That all comes from experience: try different primers, just respect the need to initially reduce the load each test. I can also tell you that my notes tell me that the primer has a whopping lot to do with how high or low my velocity deviations plot out. One last: there are small variations in primer dimensions (heights, diameters) among various brands. These variations are not influential to performance. But! Small diameter variations can influence feeding through priming tools. This can be a hitch especially in some progressive loading machines. Manufacturers usually offer insight (aka: “warnings”) as to which are or aren’t compatible, so find out. Check out Midsouth products HERE Primer trays HERE This article is adapted from Glen’s books, Handloading For Competitionand Top-Grade Ammo, available at Midsouth HERE. For more information about other books by Glen, visit ZedikerPublishing.com

I saw that in a news letter email , $140 for a QD mount & rings , not bad . in its present configuration , its too low for my fat head , for an AR . We will see if they put out different height Rings also .

Seems they kinda have a " Gotcha " on that Jig system .

I carry my P320C in full FDE , my IWB Holster is from right here in FLA & I never liked Kydex , but this one https://www.concealmentexpress.com/collections/sig-sauer-iwb-kydex-holsters/products/sig-sauer-p320-tuckable-iwb-kydex-holsteris great from here https://www.concealmentexpress.com . After carrying for half a year , I lost a screw holding the pivot part Belt clip on the other day , that locks the Pivot in place , didn't effect carrying , lucky for me , I purchased extra part kit when i ordered my Holster & had plenty of extras, also got some lube for the inside of Holster . I had a very well known brand of Leather Holster & had major issues with drawing from concealed carry , the Kydex is like butter drawing . I don't know how long I carried with a loose screw , but noticed it missing on a normal rig inspection.

The shear mass of that Scope/Rings may be an issue with the puny Mounts on recoil of the 338Win Mag, wow ! Hope it stays on the Rifle .?

Did you purchase it second hand & if so you can tell if its been upgraded by the cut in the back of the underneath the slide . If its not been upgraded , I would do so , because mine came back with a better Trigger feel , very little change in sear disengagement pounds , just feels better , smoother . I had mine back in 12 days , I think its much faster now & some, they replace the Grip module to a newer upgraded one . You can run the Serial # & see if its been done & if not register it for a return label .

I'm sure you have read about it , I live 20 miles away & worked downtown Jax before I retired & have been to the Landing many times , but as with all shootings , people say its always the Guns fault , well here is another psycho that should never had been able to have a firearm .Another kid on psycho drugs , how many more of these kids are out there , in the same condition waiting to snap , he's was 24 , fits right in with all the other young killers out there on these type of drugs. This POS came from up North & lost a fuking game & went off the deep end , WTF ! https://www.news4jax.com/news/gunman-with-2-guns-extra-ammo-targeted-gamers

When i worked at a Hospital , a guy used to come & sharpen Knifes/Scalpels for the Operating room Doctors ( yes that was a long time ago, they use disposable ones now ? ) & used a Belt type sharping thing & I used to talk him into sharpening my work knife , it was sharp as you can get one , when he was done with it .

Prototype I played around with today to see how to best cut the Vents in the HG , this HG was a screw up, so messing with different ways of clamping & cutting the Vents was good practice . It still needs some fitting , its hitting the Stock in a couple of places . Good enough for a testing platform .

Have you chambered any yet ? With Barne's Bullets & them being longer then Lead Core Bullets , the Ogive shouldn't be an issue , will be breathless with anticipation for your results ?

Lansky , been using them ever since they came out . I saw a demo at a hunting show & purchased one, I was hooked , because until I got one , I couldn't sharpen a knife , seemed like they got worse after trying to sharpen them with just a Stone . I then sold them as a dealer for many years . One always went to Hunt Camp with me & I even use one for some Gunsmithing .

Just a update , I cracked my main Mold last week while pulling a experimental HG from the Mold , it was stuck in there real good , my fault , i was trying some different methods & it bit me . I have new Product now to help with Releasing from the Mold & also made a new & improved Mold & am Prepping it now for a testing . I have new tooling to cut & trim the HG & should have a Vented HG tomorrow cut & trimmed tomorrow . I tested my trimming & cutting on the experimental HG I screwed up & what a difference then cutting by hand , straight cuts & 100% control of it . I also have another experimental way of making a HG in the works & also a CF adj. Cheek riser for my SOCOM.

Its all I load for the 25-45 SHARPS , The 87 gr. Speer SP's just dont do nearly as well for me . I do like Barnes 's but have never been able to get good groups from any 30 cal. , now their 62 gr. in my 5.56 shoot very well .