survivalshop

I think they are just teasing us, the Bastiges ! <dontknow>

I found one of the Remington's , its in a loaded 38 special & will pull the bullet,powder & de-prime . I went over all the ways I could have screwed the primers up , but I'm kinda picky about primers , I try not to touch them at all , period . I used to toss them out if they hit the bench or floor , well not any more , I have different levels of contamination, now a days , but still these primers are where all my primers are & right next to 20+ year old WW primers ,that have never failed . I find that when the primer pocket gets loose , changing primer brands to get a tighter fit , might or might not work . I use my RCBS primer pocket swaging tool to see how the pocket feels & if its loose , it goes in the scrap . I have noticed Commercial brass is an slight resistance fit, even on new brass. Milspec of course is a different matter , they are tight even after swaging them .

Yes , we want it to see it all ! <thumbsup>

Nice write up .

If your looking for one for an AR15 , Shadow Ops has some with slight blemishes on sale right now & a very good deal . I would buy another & plan on getting one of there blemished ones( if still available ) for my BRO build I have going , just short on funds at this moment . Mine is a 308 version & its well made & is working the way it should .

Nice ! Now you got me thinking about my Ultra Classic & what I can put in it . <thumbsup>

When I got the first failure to ignite , I also thought it was a fluke , but soon learned it wasn't. I know that's not what you wanted to hear , but 98's advice, makes good sense . I think when they were making primers when all the shortage was in full swing , that we as consumers of components , we got the seconds that didn't get to there loaded ammo , just a theory . I'm not sure , even on Marcos setting , my camera can get photo's that clear . Now my Wife's camera , maybe , I'll try it, if I find one of the primers .

Why not just shoot at 25 yards & go with that , making adj. as you go up in yardage to where you want the sights set at ? I have never needed one of those laser bore sighters . I have a Bushnell Bore sighter for bolt actions I use some times ,just to see where the scope reticule is , after mounting a scope, its a grid type bore sighter , doesn't work on anything, but bolt guns .There are off set spuds for it ,but not worth the hassle .

The one I'm running in the 16" is running clean & I just wipe it down after shooting , got it from Shadow Ops.

I just got my first bubble level for a scope . This A.C.D. ( Mounting Solutions Plus )is the first I have ever purchased or used & if I like it , I'll put one on my 20" , 308AR. Can't wait to check it out .

I have some Remington SM Pistol primers that have been doing that . Every once in a while I get the same thing. I got them during the first buy out, when Butthead first took over the USA. Could be contaminated at the factory or in-between ,no way of knowing unless you get it analyzed .I quit using those Remington's I have, they had at least one failure to ignite , with each firearm I shot them out of , some times a second try they would go off , but it was a crap shoot. I still have like five hundred of them. I may still have one that didn't ignite , I'll have to look .

Check Natchez out , they have 1 # cans for about $ 20 . I be low on funds right now or I would pick up some to try .

Ya , but holding it , is the problem , the cartridge won't have a problem getting there & doing what's it sent there for . Nothing like a stocked rifle of some sort , for precision aiming . <thumbsup> Robo , I thought you were in the motorcycle division , how you going to carrie this thing on your scoot ? <dontknow> <laughs>

Manufacturers use a loctite on Gas blocks & gas key screws( instead of straking them) also .The whole design from Mr. Stoners & crew was that the gas tube was to keep the barrel nut from loosening & have some find of way for a tool to attach it , making a barrel nut that is not configured to allow that feature ,may indeed some type of lock set to keep if from backing off. My PRI Muzzle Brake kept loosening after a day at the range & after calling them , they said to use loctite & I used the Blue removable & it has not loosened since & that was a few years ago, so it may have some merit .

Must be nice to get money back to spend it on something . <dontknow>

If the comparison Chrono results are no different or are off in some way, case capacity would be interesting , but if they both shoot the same , I guess which way you size them wouldn't matter, just how much you work the brass & that's important now a days . I have found since getting a Chronograph , that if the ES & SD are low , its going to be a good shooter all the way around . It will be interesting to see what or how they compare with my Chrono Data I already have.

You may have to drill & tap the screw holes in the DPMS , the FA already has them & if they line up with it , its all good .

What he said . just shoot them . Are you trimming the brass ? I only say this because the longer or shorter the case is , setting it up on the cannelure could give you a longer or shorter OAL .

If they are working , no need to size them with a SB , the minimum would be full length sizing . I know some that tried just neck sizing & had problems. If you read the answer from RCBS , it tells you to use SB sizer with an semi or auto firing rifle. but I know a lot of people that have been using the FL for a long time & had no issues . I don't doubt there could be chambers out there that may not like the FL sizing of the case & require the SB sizer, but if the FL works , better for the reusable brass case, less working it . I have both loaded up , so when I get to the range this week I will have Chrono results , if they make a difference. There sure is sizing them , which makes me wonder if even though the SB sizes them a tad smaller , what would that do with chamber pressure , Velocity ? less , more ? Not enough to matter ?,

I sized a bunch of once fired LC brass today with the Redding FL sizer & there is plenty to trim off them , so this is where I will start my new loadings. From the RCBS web sight. Now having a read on that , it also opens a bunch of questions , I for one think that if I was reloading for a pure combat rifle or as I do , many different rifles ,both semi & bolt action in the same .308 . I do not like to make a special load just for each one , so it why I have over the years used SB dies . I'm going try to do things differently now & make up loads for the different actions & even barrel lengths & going to use a FL sizer die & if it doesn't work out right , I still have a SB die , that I know has worked for me for a long time .

Actually the BATFE has said that the Muliti Cal. is not legal because it has not got a caliber stamped on it . Required to have a Serial number & caliber , but it was discussed here before that almost all bolt actions would be illegal because they are made with serial number only ( most military rifles have the caliber/ser.# on the receiver ) & not caliber on the receiver , the caliber is on the Barrels . There BAFTE may have different standards for AR"S & they can change at a whim. Dedicated lower for 300BLK

Any DPMS/SR 25 upper will be compatible , as long as it is for a 308 or caliber that works with same receiver. Build your own , if you want . I think there was a 18.5" light weight FA barrel ,in 308, in the add section here. Check Fulton Armory, JP's , ect

Test chamber a sized empty case, that will tell you if the case length is OK . If it wants to stick in the chamber & takes a lot of effort to extract , there may be some thing not right . Also watch COL with some bullets types & manufacture , the 300BLK may require them to be seated deeper in the case. I have a sheet some where from the guy that was in with the development of the 300BLK , I just have to find it , it had a bunch of COL for specific bullets manufacturers . I see if I can find it , i know I have one printed in my 300BLK binder . The whole thing on this SB/FL kinda surprised me , I have not had the two type dies to compare to with the 308 . I have them in 223 ,but never though of comparing them , I don't need to now , I know there will be a difference . Was always told the SB die worked the brass more , now I know for sure. the short brass will be put in my short brass container that I have now . Its good brass , but not for target loads I need right now & will probably get some 150 FMJ for blasting ammo , at some point.

I just got what I think is the correct neck bushing for my Redding type " S " bushing , full length sizing die & sized 70 LC brass cases to load. After the SS tumbling media did its thing & they dryed , I set out to check & trim the brass , well after I got done going over the brass , I only had twenty that needed trimming & the other fifty were under , trim to length , measurement. This brass was reloaded once before & was trimmed to 2.005" , why did they shrink ? Well then it dawned on me , I Full Length sized them & didn't work the brass as much as the Small Base sizing I did on the last reload . To prove this is the case I took one of the short cases & measured it , 2.002" ( almost all the short ones (50) are at this measurement or real close ) lubed this one case up & put it through the SB sizer die , remeasured & it came to 2.007" , That's a 0.005" difference , so now I have to decide if I want to load the short ones & shoot them & see if the get long enough to trim to use or just start with new brass , since I will be using the Redding die from now on . I'm going to retire the SB , RCBS die, been loading with it for almost thirty years , time to replace it , the replaceable neck bushings are a plus ,not to mention a new sizer die . Interesting .

Yep, get used to it . :laughing4: