survivalshop

Some times you have to light the fire under them ,they did screw the first one up . You should have had your barrel by now. We will see tomorrow ,if it doesn't rain too hard to test the loads . I have to inspect the brass when done to see if I can go higher than what I have loaded for the 150 gr. .

Smith & Wesson will make it look like you just bought it off them . Not sure what it would cost. I used to have a list of refinish-ers ,but that was a long while ago , not sure who else to recommend . They are out there .

I worked late last night & am not able to go to the range today & also looks like I will be working the whole weekend . Monday will be the day, I guess , which is not bad , good chance to get range brass. The LC I loaded may have had brass with multiple loadings mixed in it ,because I have been using Rem. bench rest primers & they are the same color as factory copper color. You should have no problems with new brass , as long as you stay with in pressure limits . The blowing of primers is one of the signs of high pressure. In my case , I knew some had a lose fit & that shows over worked brass , but they served there purpose . It was only two that did it & the others showed no signs of over pressure I did have two when reloading that fell out when primed & I tossed them in the scrap brass bin & reused the primers. The Winchester WW 296 shows the same loadings grs. & vol. as H110. LiLgun , your on your own on that one , you will have to work up loads to see. Right now I have 19grs. of H110 loaded with a 150 gr. bullet & will see how that goes on Monday . That is up there, but I don't think it will make it to your 2300 fps . I go with avgs. now ,so one that may brake that out of five will not be a definitive example of that velocity goal. CMMG is selling new Remington 300 BLK brass http://cmmginc.secure-mall.com/category/Reloading-Supplies-190 , I ordered 100 . It all about the case head designation , I have others in my household that shoot & its good to have the head stamp right for them. It is on the pricey side , but once I get my loads right ,my 5.56/.233 head stamp brass will go away.

It can help to radius or taper the front of the pin or the end you are trying to insert. Put the pin in a drill press or battery operated drill & dress it at about a 45 deg. angle or so with a file or stone ,just a little to give it a start into the hole . If you look close at a pin ,it has a little roundness to it already for this .

Yes & no , some live by it . If the face of the upper receiver is not true ,its most likely just the Finnish put one it that needs dressing up & can be done with out special tools. Now keeping it true by doing that is where a good tool , of some sort, would be nice . They don't make one of them there tools for AR 308 uppers, like they do for the AR15/16 family ,so you have to resort to your own Witt's on cleaning it up , if, even needed. There are a whole bunch of rifles out there ,that have not had anything done to the face of the upper receiver that shoot just fine & print smaller groups than 1 ". Good Quality parts is what helps the most. On the most part ,DPMS bbls. are good shooters . As with any large output manufacturer ,you can get a bad one , now & then.

I may have just slowed down my lower build for my 300BLK . I am getting a Smith & Wesson 29-3, 6 " .44 mag.,in blue , of course. I found one ,well my bro who works at a shop got one in on a trade & called me first & I told him I wanted it , so now just waiting for a total with shipping & lining it all up. Been looking for an older mod. N frame for a while . Seems every one wants an arm & a leg & your first born for one . The price was more than right ! The sickness is not just in AR's . I think I need a bigger safe !

I guess you could put an adj. sight on any hand gun . The price,rail & metal frame requirements are going to make a very short list,very short. The 92 ( what is it , 92 AF for the adj. sight mod ? ) but what about the rail ? I've never been a Beretta fan so not sure whats on the newer models .

I have seen the use of N110 ,but know nothing about it . As said I went with H110 & WW 296 . The WW 296 is supposed to be less sensitive to temp. change , at least that's what I read from another reloaders comments. He had problems at a match using H110 that load tests were done at a lower temp. & the match was at more moderite temps.. Who knows ,what really happened, too many factors can come into the equation when some one else is doing the loading . I trimmed & primed the Hornady brass & both the Rem. 7 1/2 bench rest & CCI primers fit & seated normally & felt good going in . I'm not sure where this batch of LC that I used the first test came from ,but I don't like the primer seat feel , even with the CCI's I just put in the second batch .

Whats odd about it is, some one got caught . Too bad for the Navy guy's career. This type stuff is done daily in DC.& no one seems to lift an eyebrow.

What they said .

I haven't looked for N110 , I'm using H110 & WW 296. I just cut down & sized some Hornady .223 brass . I will get more case volume from the commercial brass than the thicker LC .( & I know its once fired) I 'm also trimming them longer ,not much, but every little bit will help to get more powder in & keep it from being a compressed load . I was trimming them to 1.360" ,now on this batch of Hornady brass ,I'm trimming to 1.365".(case length for the 300BLK is 1.368" ) I will also be testing the WW296 for the first time Friday & will post the results in the Reloading section . You say you ordered a light weight BC ? That may not help you get the FPS as a heavier M16 BC would. You can always put a Superior shooting systems spring in ( Tubbs )They clame you get longer lock time to increase FPS . I have one in my AR 308 carbine ,16" bbl. ,but have not had the time to test the two springs , to see if its true. Spring works great though .

I got my rear Gen.II sight ,but had the wrong part # for the front (old sight ) so they just sent me the rear plus $ 11.00 shipping for something that only weighs a few ounces . You would think they new I wanted a set ,but I order from them almost weekly, so I will back order the front Gen. II this week . Seems like the only time I get good light for photo's is at the range . Gen. II side by side with the Gen.I

I can load up the 150 gr. bullets a lot higher than I am now . I am just working up loads now . The next batch will be on the max side to see how far I can go . So you need 2300 fps out of a 147 gr. bullet , that may be done with your 18" bbl.. What do the do , chrono your loads at the shoot , to see if you meet the PF. ? I can see what I get the 150 up to this week . The rest is a cheapo , but works just fine . You can't shoot with any mag fed rifle on it ,You have to cock it to one side & just use the front rest . With my 20" 308 , I usually use the bi pod ,so I don't need it for that one . I left my rest bags in Ohio at hunt camp , so I will need to buy more & just leave them there. They work much better with mag fed rifles ,if you get the right ones.

The guy, his name on his posts is RSILVERS, is the one in charge of development of this cartridge, said he gets 2450 fps from a 110 VMax out of a 16" bbl. This reference of 2300 fps from a 18.5 of H110 ,sounds reasonable ,but the charge weight makes me sceptical because of my results. Since my avg. for the 125 gr. bullet & 20 grs. of H110 was 2211 . Even with 2" more bbl. , I don't think that charge will make it. My 19 gr. of H110 with the 125 was 2132 avg.. Of course what bbl. & what twist rate ya have may make some difference ,but you will need a chrono. to figure that out . Not to mention what round count is through the bbl. Mine is not yet broken in yet & may loosen up after break in. I like the Troy Battle rail , very light ,I'm not sure I how just a clamped on hand guard will fair ,but the way its made ,I can't see it loosening up . I made it a little bigger for ya.

Yes.

How about north Florida shooters ?

I was born & raised in Ohio . Even though I now live in Florida , I gun hunt in Guernsey Co. every year since I moved. I grew up by Lake Erie.

This is the upper on my Oly. preban A2 lower , one of my old Turkey scopes . Since I worked OT ,all weekend , I made enough to finnish the lower off ,so I can have a complete rifle in this cal.. Just doesn't look right ,with the A2 stock .

I think with H110 & WW296 , you could get two or more grains in there . As said , There was no signs of high pressure on the brass that didn't pop the primer & ya know ,I've been thinking about that brass . Its range brass in some way I'm sure, might have been some ones last loading & they just happen to use Remington 7 1/2 primers (because they are the same color as factory primers ) I will make all future cases from known good once fired brass, but use this fodder until I see problems . I'm not done with testing loads for this rifle & she can be seen on the Rifles section ,under the 300blackout thread. 2300 fps can be reached with out a problem ,I think. What fps. were you looking for again ?

It was cost at first m because of how much I shot . Then later its about how well my ammo shoot & how to make it better & I guess a little, self preservation . I just had a new door into reloading after all these years of trial & error , I got a Chronograph for Christmas & I see things differently now , almost like I just opened my eyes for the first time. Kinda cool !

Got some Chronograph numbers today , 125 gr. Speer , 16gr. ,2400 ,avg. 1954 fps. 150gr.sp. ,Hornady , 15 gr. 2400 , avg. 1723 fps. 125 gr. Speer , 19 gr. H110 ,avg. 2132 fps. 150 gr.sp. Hornady, 17 gr. H110, avg. 1846 fps. 125 gr. ,Speer, 20 gr. , H110 avg. 2211 fps. As far as grouping , I didn't do any ,because I am working up loads . I can tell you this ,the 20gr. of H110 looks good . I did have a couple of primers that blew out part way with the 20 gr.load of H110. I used 7 1/2 Remington bench rest primers & I didn't like they way they seated or fit . No primers showed any high pressure signs ( blow out primers can be caused by many things ). Kinda makes me wonder about the brass I was using. I had several that fell out of the case when priming . This was once fired LC 5.56 brass, even though it was only a few ,its enough to change primer manufacturers, I will use CCI & WW next. Other than the couple of primers (3) this is a awesome rifle to fire . I had a couple of people at the range ,that had never heard of the 300 BLK. Can't wait to do some grouping.

Yep , just makes you wonder ,how they will deal with it . From experience ,I can tell you we won't like it .

All this brass was formed from cut down LC 5.56 brass. This case forming stuff is new to me . Hay I'm a virgin again <laughs> !

At least you got her thinking about it . Just start complaining how hard it is to make this ammo you (& her ) love to shoot . I can hear it now " I can't afford to buy more ammo darling , we will have to make do with one mag. apiece, but if I could reload ! " <laughs>

You may have some surprises with the chronograph data on your loads. I sure did , not sure how I reloaded for so long with out one . I don't use any powder you can get off the shelf ,so my loading data would be useless , but the changing of bullets ,powder & primers , is good advice & once you find a sweet spot you will know it . That is also where the chronograph can come in handy. Some barrels like heavy bullets, some don't . If you hand load & can't get much better results against the milspec 147 fodder , you have not found your sweet spot . I believe , with the right combo of powder & primers , you can achieve outstanding results with any bullet . ( with a good bbl. ) Ya just have to match the loading to what your barrel likes & of course ,its the person pulling the trigger that has a lot to do with it . Another thing to remember is , just because its fast ,doesn't mean its accurate.