Jgun

Maduce, your starting with GI fiberglass stocks, correct? Just out of curiosity, would it be feasable to make them pistol grip vs thumb hole? I'm thinking about something that resembles an M14 E2 stock, but out of fiberglass, or something like the Nigerian garrand stocks.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like the AR 15 rifle length handguard that I've got on my 300BLK. I think the midlength .308 handguard is going to be shorter, something to double check if your trying to build it to resemble the one pictured. By the way, as otheres can attest, the Apex is a quality, light weight handguard. I really like the way the tube is milled, feels very grippy.

No argument about the USO being a step up from the NF, in price as well as quality. My eyesight's not so good anymore and I've not had the chance to spend a lot of time with too many high end scopes, Haven't actually sampled the USO. I have used the NF and found it to be pretty good, I've also used the S&B scopes which I'm told are comparable to the USO, but I can't justify the cost, based on my income and the fact that I am not in the line of work where that level of optic is required. I have heard that the NF are pretty indestructable (and heavy). I expect that the optic that I get for my build will be a compromise. I was very impressed with a Nikon that I had a chance to use, but it has a 1" tube and not all the features I'd like. I was considering the Millett as a temporary solution but will take a look at the SS. Thanks for the reccomendation, and don't forgrt to give use a range report.

You may be confusing Survivalshops build with my Kaiser with the CF barrel. Only regret I have about buying the Kaiser is that I didn't go for the rail with the forward charging handle. At the time I figured that I'd pick it up later, who knew they'd go out of business so soon. Of course, anything of their's that's propriatary (like the forward charging setup) could be a real liability if you were to ever need parts, so maybe it's not such a bad thing I didn't get one. Survivalshop, whenever I look at your 16" barrel with the rifle gas system, I'm always amazed that it runs so well for you. It looks as though there's almost no time for the gas to cycle that thing before the bullet exits the barrel. It looks as though it needs a suppressor. very cool though.

I didn't see any reference made to the range issue. Although most of us here seem to have opted for the 18" barrels over the 20", if the type of hunting you expect to be doing will involve mostly long range targets, then there might be some benefit to going with the longer barrel, just for the slightly higher muzzle velocity it will give you, if not, I don't think the added weight and handling issues of the 20" would make the 18" a better choice IMO.

I remember when I was having a barrel done, being told that the Armalite, AR 10 gas block location differs from the Knights/DPMS by a small amount (around .250") so a gas tube for a rifle length gas system on a Factory built AR 10 would be a little longer (I think) than the rifle length for a DPMS. Now, since your not buying an Armalite manufactured barrel, just because Rainier sells this as being an Armalite pattern barrel, doesn't guarantee that they are going with Armalite GB location, it might just be that they are talking about it having an Armalite compatible barrel extension. Short version here is to call up Rainier and ask them, or just order the suitable gas tube from them along with the barrel.

I lik it! In fact I think I like pretty much everything about the AXTS lower pictured (except the price). Not sure I'd be brave enough to relieve the bottom of the trigger guard THAT much, especially on a $400 plus lower.

Thats one beautiful gun. if it's built by Ted Brown I'm sure your going to be happy with it. I've got most of my parts in hand to put my first M1A together, just waiting on my JAE stock (ordered last June). I still don't have glass, or money for it right now. How do you like the SS scope? I was thinking Night Force, but they're pretty pricey so I may have to go with something less expensive initially. Best of luck with it, please post a range report.

I would have to agree with you on this, it doesn't make sense to me either, that a company would ship the gun with the wrong combination of parts which prevents proper function. I have no first hand experience with the CMMG guns, but assuming they are dimensioned similarly to the other DPMS SR 25 pattern guns, there should be no reason why you shouldn't be able to use an AR 15 carbine type buffer tube, CTR or equivilant stock, and one of Clints CAR buffers and matching springs to have a correctly functioning lower.

Looks like you beat me with that one Drew. Glad my info was accurate.

I hesitate to comment on this because I'm not sure about the accuracy of all of this. If someone reads it and knows it to be incorrect, please post a correction. I have not done a great deal of experimentation/testing with the other stocks, because all of my .308 AR's (All of my AR's actually) have collapsing carbine type stocks. I'd like to set up one of my guns with the UBR and PRS stocks, just haven't got around to it yet. It has been my understanding that the PRS uses the rifle length buffer tube, and the matching longer buffer as pictured from your friends gun. I have tha Clints CAR buffer, that is, I belive compatible with my shorter buffer tube. Have you considered asking your friend if you could just pin your upper on his lower to function test your gun? And if I were you I'd skip that steel cased ammo, at least until you know you've got a gun that runs. If it cycles on your friends lower, you then know that the problem is in the stock/buffer/spring of your gun.

VERY NICE! I'm also feeling envy, but I think it looks lonely. I think you need to add something to the front (a can?)

Not recommended, INO you'd be better off with the Armalite BCG.

Your going to have to post your (subjective) opinion of how it feels relative to a standard, 8-9lb .308 AR, once you've had some range time with it. By the way, you probably already know this, but the rail on the DPMS uppers are different heights than what is found on the majority of other uppers, so you may find that the riser is not needed once you switch your upper.

and here I was thinking that nothing could be worse than a pink AR.

As survivalshop stated, depending on the brand you use, that should not be an issue. IMO, some defenitely have better mounting designs than others. The Daniel Defense Lite series being one of the strongest I've seen. Once you've narrowed it down, post what your thinking about and I'm sure someone here who has one will be happy to give his opinion on the design. As I mentioned, if you go with a monolithic this will not even be someting to worry about.

I think that the gas port location for a 12.5" .308 barrel would likely be different than that used in a 16" .308 barrel, so a cut down 16" Rainier arms select may not give you reliable unsuppressed function. It might be a good idea to C/O the prefered gasport size and location for your desired barrel length.

As you stated, you'd need to Build another Mega upper if you wanted to use your present Mega lower for the SBR. I'm not in a SBR state, so this may be incorrect, but I thought that you had to register the lower as a SBR. Maybe another member can verify that. But you can run your 16" upper on it once it's been regestered as a SBR, right? I have no first hand experience with them, but the Noveske Leonidas barrels are very nice, I remember seeing some video of them on Noveske's site. I think that they are 12.5" which is probably not a bad length for a .308 SBR. If you used it with an Armalite BCG you should be good GTG. Maybe use it with a switch block so you can switch back and forth between suppressed/unsuppressed without cycling issues ?

Your right they are expensive, and it may be possible to solve your problem cheaper through other methods/trial and error. I'll tell you this, when I take the 50 mile ride to my range, I'm really pissed off if my gun doesn't run. Keep in mind, if this one thing will make your gun run for you, it would be money well spent, if it doesn't, I know your going to be really pissed, but you should be easily able to sell the buffer on this forum, probably to me. If I were you, I'd give Clint a call at Heavybuffers.com and ask his opinion about the problem, and what buffer he recommends, good luck.

To add to what has been previously posted. It shoudn't be how far back the bolt carrier is traveling, it's how fast. If the case doesn't have enough time to eject before the bolt passes the back of the port, it could be hanging up. Another thing that sometimes happens when the bolt travels too fast in the other direction, is that it can override the next rd when traveling forward, and you get a failure to feed. I have not done a lot of testing with different spring/buffer combinations (I'm sure others here have) I have installed Slashes Xheavy buffers in my guns with excellent results. One of the things that sometimes happens with an adjustable gas block is that if you set it to JUST cycle a certain rd, you end up with reliability issues when switching to other less powerful ammo. If you plan to use the rifle for self defense or hunting dangerous game, reliability becomes paramount. You might also want to check your extractor/ejector for proper function..

PRI low pro adjustable that you've pictured, has a set screw that you screw in to restrict gas from the barrel port. I have not used the JP, but do like the PRI because of it's small size (fits under most FF hand guards) and the fact that it's steel and not aluminum.

PM'd also.

As stated by the others, the flexing of the FF handguard shouldn't effect the barrel. If your running a scope mounted on the upper receiver, the handguard is essentially isolated from the rest of the gun, that was the original intent of free floating barrels. I'm of the opinion that different free float hand guards/rails are going to exhibit different amounts of flex depending on the design (and how tight you choose to sling up). If you utilize BUIS mounted on the upper receiver and front of the FF handguard, it could effect your POA, but keep in mind that unless you can sling up the same every time, you'll have the same effect with a sling attached to a non FF barrel. If you really want to eliminate any possible problems in this regard, maybe you should consider going with a monolithic free float upper receiver from someone like Mega?

Since the first time I saw the Colt, I've been trying to decide if the ability to switch calibers in the field would be something that would be very desirable to the military. I haven't handled one, but have heard that they are heavier than a standard M4. They may well be lighter than the Armys present 7.62X51 AR which would be a good thing. My question is this, since the lower is not really the heavy part of the gun anyway, I can't picture a soldier actually carrying an extra upper and ammo and mags on his person. So, I find myself wondering if it's really all that great of an advantage. In the field I would think that it would be much easier to just pick up a different gun (that you know runs) vs pulling the pins, putting the other upper on, loading it, and then seeing if it operates. Same thing if you want to switch back to the first cal. I'm just not sure it would be all that great of a thing. I'd be interested to hear from those that have first hand combat knowledge, if my scenario is inaccurate/unrealistic.

I just checked availability, and they're sold out, back order OK.