shibiwan

Trying to help out a friend who does .50 BMG reloading, and also trying to understand why there's so much variance between dies.... He has a few dies, but supposedly the only "good" die that sizes the brass correctly is one made by Hollywood Gun Shop. Unfortunately for him, the primer punch in that die snapped somewhere in the shaft, and sending it back to the manufactuer was a dud (they sent it back and said they didn't make it or something). ....anyway he brought that die to me and I think I can cut and re-thread the punch shaft on my lathe, and replace the tip with a Hornady punch tip He also has a Hornady die set and a Lee die set which he says aren't any good and it doesn't size correctly for some bolt action BMG's. Supposedly these "bad" ones fit in the Bushmaster and Barrett 50-cals with no problems. The problems are in the headspacing. To the questions.... Anyone knows who else makes 50-cal dies? (I know RCBS does... and my buddy is too cheap to buy the Dillon carbide die --quoting him "$600 yes!, $850? No... hell no") Why is there so much variance in the dies? Shouldn't they all have the same internal profile? So far, gauging them has shown that they are different sizes.... Any possibility he's doing something wrong? Any tips? This guy has been reloading tons of .50 BMG for some time and I'm not going to tell him he's doing something wrong.......yet. :D :D Other thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks for taking the time to read this.

"....the government shutdown follows a shooting in the DC Navy Yard last month...." :))

There's a guy on Armslist (AZ) posting 80% lowers at $35... and I don't think it's vaporware either.

Here's a different view - a manufacturing engineer's perspective. Making a billet upper is significantly more complicated than making a billet lower. The long central bore of the upper requires specialized tooling to essentially make a long hole in a chunk of metal. To make this a simpler process, it's easier to get an extruded bar (think play doh) that has the right sized hole in the center. All that is left is to machine the outer surfaces, and the lower channel of the upper. It's still a complex process but much less so. To make it even more cost cefficient, some companies will use a forged blank that is close to the "net shape" (i.e. the final shape of the item) then finish the part with a small amount of machine work. Using billet to make a lower is much simpler. The geometries etc of the lower is easily machined from a solid block of metal and therefore it's more cost efficient, relative to the forging process. ...anyway, here's eye candy of an almost complete early development prototpye sitting on my office desk.....

Methinks you need to send it back to have the chamber checked - especially since it's brand new. Send the empty cartridges along with it too... -S

Welcome fellow CMMG MK3 owner! Nice scope!

Probably because the system is composed of Chinese-made pieces. The camera looks like one of those cheap security cams from Costco. It's a good idea though. Wonder if this can be accomplished with a software-only solution and all you do is plug in any old video cam. The system just alternates between "before" and "after" pics to highlight where each round lands... hmmmmmm :eek13:

You forgot the jailbait & sorority sluts at ASU.

Hmm... I could easily do the mods on the CNC mill. Anyone interested in being the ginuea pig?

It's steel! Rattle can of paint will fix that. Anyone knows how low the MBUS Pro sights sit when folded? Wondering if those will clear my scope. Need some for Hi-Power range qualification. I do get a lot of small bits off Amazon. I get free 2-day shipping with Amazon Prime so it satisfies my need for semi-instant gratification.

SSA-E. Anything with less trigger pressure than it makes me nervous. Clean, crisp, & no parts to mess up (i.e. reliable). There's no specific trigger for a particular load/barrel/build. Most of it is personal preference. The rest of it is technique and experience (i.e. practice practice practice).

Nice!

hehe... and that's why we're working at our shop to make our own billet upper/lower receivers. :D ...other projects get in the way so it's been pushed out. Well, as long as we're waiting on our FFL....

Because people will pay that price for them. :D

>:D D.R.D. - here's a really nice option instead of your SI upper/lower: http://megaarms.com/maten/receiver-sets/billet-upper-lower-sets/mkm-keymod-upper-ambi-lower-set/ heh >:D (There...just ruined your buget.... muahahaha)

You're totally right I'm such a derp. :D D.R.D. - The CMMG MK3 is a 308 (that's what I got) so the one I showed you will fit. The one you linked up is for a 5.56

Ouch... my head hurts! :)) D.R.D - this one from CMMG is for a 308 http://www.cmmginc.com/product_p/38da22d.htm

I'm going to remind you to double check on the Strike handguard - the one I posted does not mention 308 compatibility so do your research before you decide which to get. Personally I'm not even so sure on the quality of that brand.......... Here's the actual product details... start researching! http://strikeindustries.com/shop/index.php/rifle-enhancements/ar15-platform/mega-fins-ak-modular-key-mod-handguard-rail.html Lower parts kits are interchangeable except the bolt catch. Your best bet is probably get a 308 specific LPK from DPMS or CMMG.... like this: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/894635/dpms-lower-receiver-parts-kit-lr-308 Happy to help! -S

LOL... the LGS i stumbled into had a ton of Wasp Industries (www.waspfirearms.com - based in Mesa, AZ) ammo on hand. They are 115gr reloads/remanufactured with CBC brass that looks to be in good shape. At $36/100 I figure I'd chance it and support a local company. :D Was hoping to test them out at the range this weekend but I'm stuck till my father-in-law leaves on Monday.... :(

Yes it will. What we're just saying that adding 20MOA of elevation will allow you a little more adjustability if your intent is to go long range. The eventual weight is going to be around 12 lbs when you get it built up. It's not going to vary by much (probably +/- 1lbs) if you're going with the parts you're looking at. Most round float tubes like the one you linked have a 2" (actually 1.98"/50mm) outer diameter and around 1.75" inner diameter. If you're going with a round type float tube, most low-pro gas blocks will clear. I'd lean to the wilson combat one. The PRI one should be fine too. I found the round ones to be easier on my hand than to buy accessories for a quad rail just to make it comfortable to hold. I'm just cheap. LOL The latest "fashion accessory" on the forends are the Keymod style quad rail tubes. Examples of the newer keymod ones are: CMMG Revo, Midwest Industries, Novoske, Strike Industries..... and a lot more... The keymod system is supposed to be a new standard so stuff can interchange between brands but I don't see much more advantage over a the standard picatinny/MIL1913 customizable rail system. Whatever you do, make sure the handguard is made specifically for a .308 since the barrel nut threads are different.

The scope and mount will work - just make sure you get the 30mm one. I'm not too familiar with those barrels. Perhaps someone with experience will chime in. I'd say go with Fulton Armory since they have a great record for precision barrels. Heavybuffer.com buffers are great. Make sure you get the right length (i.e. DPMS length - not the Armalite length). Gas Block - go for a low-profile gas block if you want it to fit under the Troy Battlerail (There are 2 versions of the battlerail - hi-profile and lo-profile. You'll probably need the hi-profile to match the SI upper receiver but you should measure your upper receiver before ordering the Troy.) I'm not partial to any adjustable gas block but I'd insist on steel and not aluminum. You should be looking at something like this: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1070292756/wilson-combat-low-profile-adjustable-gas-block-with-gas-tube-ar-15-standard-barrel-0937-inside-diameter-steel-matte Being over-gassed means that too much gas is returning through the gas tube back to the bolt carrier group. Too much gas to the bolt carrier will "ram" the bolt carrier back faster and more violently. In addition you will notice more carbon fouling in the upper receiver and bolt carrier group. Since the BCG is flying backwards faster, it usually ends up ramming into the end of the travel (i.e. the buffer reaches the end of the tube) and literally bounces back forward. In extreme situations, this will give it insufficient time to eject the spent cartridge and properly load the next round, and ending up jamming both the empty cartridge and new round into the breech at the same time, or a stovepipe situation. Slowing down the bolt carrier by reducing the gas return and a heavier buffer gives the BCG time to eject the spent round properly. My rifle is a CMMG MK3 (bought as a complete rifle) with the CMMG 18" medium countour SS barrel. Rest of the rifle was customized as I went along. It can shoot/has shot sub MOA groups and usually outperforms my rusty marksmanship skills. The label on the stock is a printed label off the industrial labeler I have at our manufacturing shop. It didn't want to stick anywhere else (teflon coated) except on the PRS stock. I have it labelled with the bullet drop info for the Federal GM 175SMK ammo which use for long range targets. I prefer threaded barrels... standard stuff. I'm ex-military and almost everything I get is based on what I'm familiar with. As long as the barrel is crowned properly, the difference is minimal. The threaded barrel will allow all sorts of muzzle devices, including suppressors. Going from 16" to 20" is about a 100-120 FPS increase, I really wanted a 20" but ended up with the 18" because the ballistics between the 18" and 20" are only marginally different (about 50 FPS) and was a tad lighter carry. My rifle & handgun are my SHTF defense weapons, so I do lean towards the more tactical options. -S

Good catch! If you use the standard "A2" Rifle extension tube, the cheapest "factory" option is this buffer: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/913498/dpms-buffer-lr-308-rifle -S

I'm using this 20MOA riser: http://www.amazon.com/Weaver-Flat-Riser-Rail-20MOA/dp/B004NRVLVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380336859&sr=8-1&keywords=20moa+weaver+riser ...plus a medium Warne 30mm ring set http://www.amazon.com/Warne-Scope-Mounts-Medium-Permanent/dp/B000PX0KQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1380337016&sr=1-1&keywords=warne+30mm+rings I still have a little more than 1/4" more room between the top of my rifle rail and the scope so I could have installed using the low rings (1/8" lower than the medium) and gotten away with it -- that would have been optimal since it puts the scope as low as it would go. IMO this gives me tunability - I can get the scope height I want without getting stuck with a one-piece with a pre-set scope height. The other advantage is if I ever upgrade the scope to another with a 34mm, 35mm, or whatever scope tube size, all I have to swap out is the rings and still get the 20MOA elevation in the riser/base. It's my way to be cheap in the long run than if I got a one-piece cantilevered scope mount with 20MOA elevation (check out the AADMOUNT) and then have to get another entire mount later when I upgrade scopes.... Here are some pics - it should give you a good idea about the direction you're going since I have a lot of the parts on your wishlist. :)

Yes the atlas has both swivel and cant as standard (cant is only 15 degrees vs 25 on the Harris). The swivel and cant "tension" can be adjusted to how tight or loose you want it. It also requires some breaking in so it will loosen up as you use it and you can tighten back down with the main knob. Heavybuffers.com makes some nice ones... I'm streamlining mine, and maybe offering it up for sale eventually. Light buffers increase the cyclic rate while heavier ones slow it down. Competition shooters (e.g. 3 gun) tend to prefer the lighter ones for super quick follow up shots at the expense of harsher recoil. For long distance shooting, the preference is towards the heavier ones, and this is especially so for the 308AR patterned rifles. The 308AR tends to be "overgassed" due to the higher capacity cartridge. The rifle length gas tube reduces this to some extent, however, a combination of heavy buffer plus an adjustable gas block will help keep things under control and working smoother. SWFA has pretty decent scopes - that is a nice scope and for a little more you can get a first focal plane scope if you're (like me) trained to use the mil reticle for range estimation. Using a 20MOA mount/riser will give you a lot more useable range for any scope. I'm using a Vortex Viper PST 6-24X50 FFP (MRAD reticle) scope. It's a pretty good value at a $950 and the performance approaches scopes that cost 3x the price (Nightforce, Leupold MK4, Zeiss). The 4-16X50 version of the Viper PST scope runs around $900 and also comes with a first focal plane reticle. For the price difference you're getting a first focal plane scope with an illuminated reticle - that's a good value IMO, and their warranty is excellent too! [EDIT] oops, I just realized that the SWFA you posted is an FFP scope too... -S

I went with an Atlas bipod over the Harris. Super strong and rigid, but it does take a little more time to deploy/fold. I feel that Harris isn't interested in keeping their product up-to-date (i.e. no direct rail mount option, only swivel mount) and they are simply milking the most out of an old(or ancient) design. SSA-E is a good choice especially for the money. Personally, I don't feel comfortable/safe with any less trigger force than the SSA-E. You'll want to go with a heavy buffer. I have a custom 12-oz buffer (See: ) in mine to help with recoil control as well as improve the cyclic action. If you're looking at building for long range shooting I strongly recommend a 20-MOA optic mount. You can get a full one-piece mount with the 20 MOA forward cant or a 20MOA riser with regular scope rings. -S P.S. Welcome to the forum!!