shibiwan

Well, aren't you LEO? Go buy us some! :)

That's a nice price for a nice rifle. Gonna follow and see how it does over the long haul.

BTW - surprise surprise - the krylon seems to stick on the bare metal SS barrel a a lot better than the anodized receiver.

You forgot the last part: #6. Rinse and repeat. (Did I mention that was sold at a price I couldn't refuse?... maybe I should put that towards a 300BLK barrel for it.)

Can't let my reloads go to waste. ::)

Great job!! Now, we want pics... LOTS of pics, including the teardown. :) P.S. The buffer tube gets scuffed/gouged a lot due to the castle nut wrench, but I agree, they could have done a better job assembling it.

Krylon? Or wait for the cerakote oven etc?

You're welcome. It's a Troy handguard but you get the idea. Here's the bottom of my old CMMG Mod 0 tubular handguard - it shows how most rail sections (2" shown) are attached to tubular float tubes.

Reloaded 223's last night, and wondering why I was reloading when I had just sold the beater AR15

Have you already shot the gun some and see if it's the nut behind the trigger that needs an upgrade before spending the money on a new barrel?

Cali_Ed - whatever path you choose, I salute you for wanting to make a difference!

Sold beater #1 a few days ago for a pretty penny. The guy must've liked the full FDE setup a lot and made me an offer I couldn't refuse. :) That leads up to today. Picked this cheapie beater up from a guy nearby (scope and ACS stock are my "old" transplants)..... wonder if I should FDE it again and sell it.... hmm it could be my Cerakote training/practice labrat when the cerakote rig gets here.

^^ Well said. That's just more things to break.

I'm in for cap patches (or caps with the patch) and some Tees.

The other thing you might want to consider in bipod choice is snagging, especially if you're running around in the brush with the rifle (e.g. game hunting, zombie killing, competition shooting, exiting vehichles while armed...). I decided on one that is slimmer/smoother and has less protuberances, odd angles and had legs that could fold either way so it's less likely to snag on belts, straps, clothes, brush and branches, dead bodies etc.... One less thing to worry about when SHTF IMO. ::) <dontknow> My current setup.

Up to you.... there's no better or worse, just that a longer one lets you hook on more stuff later if you so wish. It also allows you to have some additional adjustment room if you prefer the bipod a little farther back.

I did a 5.4" bottom rail on my troy so I could mount the Bipod plus whatever else I wanted... which ended up to be an AFG2 that I had lying around off another build.

What's wrong with being liberal/progressive? :auto: *DUCK* <laughs>

Definitely a good price on the GG&G Bipod.

My honest opinion on the Harris: WAKE UP HARRIS!! STOP MILKING THAT OLD DESIGN AND MAKE A PICATINNY RAIL VERSION THAT DOESNT NEED AN ADDITIONAL ADAPTOR. ...and therefore I have an Atlas bipod. BTW, talking about dozing off, I just nodded off for 15 mins. LOL

I guess I lucked out with my CMMG that shoots like clockwork and does 200-yard groupings like this. :D

Dangit... wish my buddy would decide quickly whether he's selling me his 300blk baby .... so I can rub it into Jon's face.

....or buy my old/surplus CMMG Mod 0 float tube. :D P.S. 98Z5V - you snooze you lose. :D :D :D

Drill & tap a couple small holes and mount a rail section, add a rail-mount bipod (e.g. Atlas). Problem solved. Most tubular free floats are 1.98" to 2" diameter OD and YHM has rail sections that match this diameter. Here's a rail section that you can use. The alternative is to drill one hole and put in a swivel stud and you can easily fit a swivel-mount bipod. Strongly recommend the first method because it doesn't unscrew as easily as a single mount point.

Sig fan but not a big fan of that shirt.... :( ...I prefer something a little more understated. :D