cantshootafish

I cannot find one that effectively locks my bolt in place after the last shot in the magazine. I find it hard to believe that the Badger Ordinance part would take care of that problem. Has anyone else had that problem and corrected it using the Badger Ordinance part?

I made the mistake of getting a couple of the plastic lowers from Tennessee Arms. You cannot use a Giessele or Right to Bear trigger with them. Somehow it hangs up the bolt after a couple shots. I wasted a lot of hours figuring out what the problem was, and I ended up getting a couple of drop in timney triggers and it works fine.

I love the Magpul Glock mags. No more cutting of your thumbs on the brass inserts when reloading. They are working perfectly.

Ebay and Amazon both have some garbage suppliers. I got two gas tubes that were out of spec on the flare diameter but I could not tell which site/manufacturer I got them from once they were in the pile. Now I check the OD of them when they come in. In fact, I just jumped on this deal from Brownell's where you get free shipping and free return shipping for $50 a year, and some special pricing. Its nice when you just want to order one piece of something and don't wanna get raped on the shipping. I ordered two nice looking forends from Amazon for .223 also and had to send them back. The threads to the forend from the barrel nut were so sloppy that you could not even tighten them up to each other. At least with Amazon they sent a prepaid shipping label and they give no arguments on the refund. Update: I bought some forends from another supplier via slickguns and got the same Chinese junk as the ones from Amazon. Lookout guys...it seems to be everywhere now.

Ebay and Amazon both have some garbage suppliers. I got two gas tubes that were out of spec on the flare diameter but I could not tell which site/manufacturer I got them from once they were in the pile. Now I check the OD of them when they come in. In fact, I just jumped on this deal from Brownell's where you get free shipping and free return shipping for $50 a year, and some special pricing. Its nice when you just want to order one piece of something and don't wanna get raped on the shipping. I ordered two nice looking forends from Amazon for .223 also and had to send them back. The threads to the forend from the barrel nut were so sloppy that you could not even tighten them up to each other. At least with Amazon they sent a prepaid shipping label and they give no arguments on the refund.

I'm gonna try a polymer lower from Tennessee Arms to lighten my next build. They will be available in 4 weeks or so. Only $75 to buy it now. I'm still not sure which free floating forend would be the lightest yet though.

I will be doing some ceracoating and have questions on blasting and shooting the inside of the upper and lower. Is everyone taping off the inside areas and only doing the outsides or do we bust our butts blasting the insides also and coating them? It just seems like it would be easier to avoid messing with the inside areas due to all the hard to get to spots. Same thing with the threads for the barrel nut on the uppers....are we doing those too or taping them off?

I did. I just used ebay as an information source in their descriptions to show how things can get confused. Believe me though when I say that talking to the "experts" at Brownells did not yield any more valid information. The best info I got was from guys on this site.

Yup....I guess thats why the H&H tactical site seems to be down and they don't call me back. Thank goodness I had a guy who could make me a special length release button. It looks better than the std anyway with having a blind tapped hole and "308" laser cut into the end to fill with your favorite color of paint.

I've been using the Syrac Ord adjustable gas blocks for 4 builds now (besides other builds) on the AR platform and am quite used to them. The only .308 I did so far was a rifle length gas system with the A2 fixed stock, rifle length extension tube/buffer/spring and it fuctions perfectly. I just don't know the best way to approach the mid length gas system since I have had no experience with it in either platform and got a deal on a CMMG mid length gas barrel for the .308 build. I have the PRS stock and rifle length receiver extension in stock with the .308 rifle length buffer/spring. I have no problem with running the adjustable gas full open to zero in the system. So can anyone tell me if the rifle length damper/spring/tube will work properly with the mid length gas barrel.....or do I need a carbine length reciever extension, buffer and tube? Thats all I am trying to find out. Thanks.

So after reading this am I correct to say that I can use my mid-length gas 18" barrel with a magpul PRS stock containing a DPMS rifle length tube, spring and damper? I also plan on using the Gen II Syrac Ord adjustable gas block. Any problems with this combo? I am SO confused!!!! Thanks for all the help guys. I already had to make a custom length mag release button for the H&H lower but it turned out sweet.

The standard mag release button had to be pushed below the surface of the lower to get the mag to release if it was threaded on more than one thread....not acceptable. I had a friend make a custom length mag release button for me and it worked out perfect. We had to add 1/8" to the length of it. I finished the assembly and test fired it today and all is perfect. Now on to my next one....

Build done....rifle length gas tube works perfectly with DPMS style upper, lower and CMMG 18" barrel. Thanks too all for the info.

Thanks guys. It got even more confusing when looking at different sellers on fleabay since some were advertising their lengths at 15.125. Looking forward to finally getting this build finished.

The mag release button and the threaded shaft afe the same length as those from my AR15 LPK's. I bought the LR308 LPK from DPMS, and it does have the different (and correct) magazine release latch, so I assume all the other parts in the kit are correct. Are these parts supposed to be the same as the AR kits? It sure looks like the shaft could use another 1/8" of length. It looks like H&H went out of business. No luck at getting to them by email from the link on their site.

OK. I ended up with a CMMG 18" barrel with rifle length gas for my DPMS based system. I just ordered the gas tube (which is all I need to complete this build) but everyone says (1) the same gas tubes are used for the .308 as the AR15, and everyone advertises their rifle length gas tube at 15.250 Previous lengths listed in this thread are 15.375 and the Armalite 15.50. Can anyone enlighten me to which is the correct length and if the AR15 and DPMS 308 are the same length tube? I called Brownells....and they were really confused. So much for their tech support....

Don't do it. I already go boned by two of these rocket hub projects.

OK, the finishing worked perfect. However, to get the magazine release button to work properly I can only have one thread from the shaft threaded into the button. Obviously that is not acceptable. I can't get H&H to answer their phone or call me back. Any suggestions? It would appear that I need to have the shaft on the magazine release at least 1/8" longer. And I am using the DPMS .308 kit.

Thanks for the info Lancer1. I dug out the LPK and thank goodness I had bought the entire 308 kit from DPMS. It does have the correct bolt catch. Now I just have to find a good deal on an 18" barrel and adjustable gas block. The previous posting on magazines was quite interesting too. I already picked up 20 round pmags on sale a couple weeks ago, so things are starting to come together somewhat inexpensively. We sure do not have much selection for adjustable length stocks with this rifle length gas system and platform. Planning for weight saving is pretty much a waste of time.

I think thats the outfit that I unfortunately sent some money to via Rockethub for some barrels that never materialized.

Wow! Thanks to all of you for this info. I am in the process of building a DPMS base .308 from a 80% lower and have everything except the gas block, barrel, forend and gas tube. Two buddies of mine are doing the same thing and we are ordering parts together to save on shipping from when we started this project 8 months ago. We have done a few .223 rifles before this for ourselves so are familiar with it all. Any further info would be greatly appreciated. The biggest problem now seems to be that everyone is out of stock on any good deals on barrels. I did not know that the SASS parts were only compatible with their other parts. You just saved me a big headache later. Thanks much.

That burnt is awesome. I keep wondering how it would look with FDE accessories.

That is a great explanation. Thanks much.

I'd like to see them drop another $10, but if I had to remove a properly tightened barrel nut I would feel much safer using one of these.

The shims are awesome to keep your torque down to a level that does not break the upper. Just be sure to grease them first so that the barrel nut can slide over them as it rotates.