briflemn762

I know I may sound like an idiot but, wtf is an eighty-percent??

No problem. I should have said that I saw that in your post. Just thought I'd throw the idea your way. Fed Match is usually in fairly ready supply and has proven very consistent for me in match rifles. The fact that the bullet weights are so similar is what makes it doable. I did have some concern because of the vastly different bullet construction, but it proved not to be an issue in my guns. Push/pull isn't really reloading and takes a really minimal amount of equipment. You need a basic single stage press-$75, set of dies-$35 (or just a seating die) and a collet puller-$33 (all prices @ MidwayUSA). You pull the bullet out of the parent round and then seat the bullet you want in the already primed and charged case to the same COL. You can't do this with just any cartridge/bullet combo, but the one I've given has proven safe in every .308 I've tried it in to date (my Mountain Rifle, a Norinco M-14S, a Winchester M-70 and a Ruger M-77 MkII stainless). I really wish i'd kept that Ruger sighhh... Then you've got the basics to start reloading if you chose too. Beware though, the search for the 'perfect load' for every situation in every gun you have is as addicting as shooting is. ;)

This one's (attached) out of an old range book I had on hand. The book is copyrighted in 1983 by Lynn Richter, but I'm pretty sure I first saw the chart in an Army training manual. The diagrams at top center depict standard range flags at wind speeds up to 25 MPH. The circular diagrams show the minutes of angle of correction needed with the wind coming from the direction the numbers in small print indicate. Bold print at 12 & 6 indicated the wind speed on that circle. Hope this helps.762NATO-308WIN Wind Chart.pdf

Hey guys, I have lots of experience with the M-1, M-14/M1A and AR-15/M-16 platforms but I've figured out that despite appearances, the AR-10/LR-308 platform is a whole different ballgame from the AR-15. I understand that a lot of parts I'd expect to be interchangeable, aren't. My question is, what would you consider to be a reasonable spare parts kit to carry to the range or on a hunt to fix things that commonly break, or are easily lost during routine (or, oops, fell in the creek) break down and cleaning? I've already managed to break the darned firing pin retaining pin trying to reinsert it. That's already on my list along with a spare extractor/spring/pin. Would you recommend OEM or aftermarket parts & why? The rifle in question is DPMS LR-308 Sporticle that's still in the barrel break-n process. It's wearing a Mag-Pul AR-15 forend and buttstock, a no-name (that I can remember anyway) AR-15 grip and a Burris Fullfield II 3-9-40 with a Ballistic Plex reticle & hunter knobs.

Serious good shooting! Good Job.

I've seen it, done it. If the scope's parallax isn't dead on at the range shot and your cheek weld isn't perfect, it's easy to be off that inch or so. I have a hard time with a lead sled myself - or off a bench sometimes. Guess it's too many years shooting out of a sling or over sand bags from prone. Heck, I'm just learning to use a darn bipod. LOL

Heat is the biggest reason for heavy barrels, I think. They tend not to spread groups around as much as lighter contours after long strings. Same rational for free floated barrels - when a barrel begins to distort as it heats up, if it's pressing against the fore end of the stock, the bullets POI will change unpredictably. I say 'unpredictably' because too many variables come into play. ambient temp, stock construction, rate of fire ,,,,, I've heard having a barreled action cryo'ed helps with this but have never tried it to be able to know for sure. All that being said, since I no longer do any match or varmint shooting, just big game hunting, know where that first shot out of a cold barrel is going is what matters to me. :sniper:

The cure for that is to keep the retaining pin ad spring - just grind the pin down till there's just enough of a nub sticking up to keep the buffer assy from falling out. I don't have one myself since I've firing M-16's enough that I got used to the 'sproong' sound by my ear. LOL Thinking back, the first time I fire an M-16, waaay back in basic, i raised my hand after firing my first shot and told the instructor I thought I'd had a malfunction because of thee weird sound I;d just heard. Embarassing. <dontknow> Guy at the range where I shoot has his set up this way and loves it. It's still easy to get the buffer in and out but it doesn't fall out when you tip the lower down.

Luminoks are the cat's meow. Best thing ever to watch your arrow's flight - especially in low light. Also help to see where your arrow hits and find pass-thru's or, gulp, misses.

<thumbsup>​ And ear protection. You ever been it the pits when a supersonic round went over. Ouch!!! ::)

No doubt about that. How many so-called 'bad-asses' would think twice about holding up a convenience store or shooting up a classroom if they knew every adult in the place was armed, ready, and able to take their butts out?

What he said. Amen!

Gotta admit being big & ugly probably didn't hurt. Course my daughter always said it was 'look' I gave 'em that made the difference - not the .45 laying on the table. What do I know -as long as they behaved we had no problems. Course, there was the one that triggered the motion detector sneaking up to her window one night. Shoulda seen his face when the light hit him and he saw me on the porch with that .45 in my hand. No more problems after that - from ANY of the guys she dated. :loser:

Went to school at OU. Living up in "green country" now, about 45 min NE of Tulsa.

I'm new to the the forum and so this post is kinda late. Did anybody but me notice that in all of the writer's discussion of variables, there was no mention of light direction, wind velocity/direction/variability, or mirage? While he said that a "Shilen match barrel" was used, he didn't mention barrel contour either. Any match shooter knows these factors can have a huge impact on group size. I've seen mirage make the bullseye seem to dance even as close as three hundred yards. High power scopes seem to amplify this issue Not hat I disagree with his conclusions. It's been my experience that shorter, stiffer barrels shoot more accurately than the long thin barrels such as are found on most hunting rifles. JMHO

Back on the original topics of using those rubber doughnut thingies to adjust barrel harmonics - back when I was a lot younger and took ad hype seriously, i tried one of them on a Ruger 77 in 7mm Mag. They actually do work. I spent a day tuning my favorite handload (which started out shooting 1.35" 10 rd groups) and seriously abused my shoulder for about 3 hours moving the darned thing about a tenth of an inch at a time. I finally got it grouping around .9" (average of 3 10 rd groups). Being real young & dumb, I was real pleased with that .4" (even when my longest shot on any game animal had been about 200 yards). I cleaned my gun and put it back in it's case (old soft-side case) and headed home. By the time I got home the darned doughnut had slid back down that tapered barrel till it was flopping loose. I cussed a lot, took the darn thing and through it in the trash and have never been quite so gullible since. :cookoo:

Sitting there cleaning your gun when the boyfriend shows up tends to keep them in line too. LOL

All the match grade guns used by the armed forces teams, back when they were still shooting the M-14 in competition, has 1:10 barrels. Our Federal Match ammo was loaded with 168 gr. Sierra MKHP. This ammo was great out to 600yds but went sub-sonic and de-stabilized before the 1000 yd line. We had 180 gr loads for 1000 yd matches that would stay supersonic at the longer range due to their higher BC. The faster twist rate was what Krieger (Who was making our barrels at the time) recommended.

I have push/pulled this bullet onto Fed Gold match in the past with good results. The pressures (and velocities) run slightly higher due to the different bullet construction but have been safe in my gun. No flattened primers or other signs of high pressure. The average case head expansion was exactly the same as Federal's P308TT2 (.308 165 gr Trophy Bonded Tip) shot in the same rifle (Remington M700 Mountain Rifle). I haven't had the need to try that with my LR-308 yet but don't see why the results would be much different.

OMG. Can't call it pulled pork. Hmmm? Piggy Flambeau?? LOL Only in Texas

I put a Magpul adjustable on my Sporticle. Took some filing on the sharp corners in the stock's tube to fit the radius where the rib runs along the bottom of the Sportical's buffer tube. Got it to fit tho' and got rid of the slop the factory version had.

I've seen that on the shelves but never tried it myself. It might be a better option for a gas gun tho'. I sure like the results I've had with the Beartooth system in my Redhawk and the Howa.

I used an oversized bore mop and the bore polishing compounds from Beartooth Bullets. I chucked a section of cleaning in am electric drill and ran it on low speed for a few seconds then cleaned it out and looked it over. After three times with the coarse grit the marks were gone. I changed to the fine grit on a clean mop and spun it for about 5 seconds and called it quits. The chamber doesn't quite have a mirror polish, but then, i didn't want it too anyway. Now it feeds & extracts everything I've put thru it.

I have a Howa 30-06 I almost gave up on. Tried bedding, getting the bolt aligned etc, etc. Darn thing was stripping copper off the jackets like crazy - even after the shoot one - clean, repeat cycle for the first twenty and the shoot ten - clean, repeat for the next hundred. It'd shoot the first couple into the same hole and then start spreading them all over (and off) the paper. Finally got tired of it and did the Beartooth Bullets polishing routine on it. Problem solved. Now it shoots my hot hunting handloads into 1.3" at 200 yards and barely has any copper build-up after a full box thru it.

Just my 2 cents, but most semi-autos are VERY picky about C.O.L.- particularly AR's. Rounds that are too short can get tipped up on feeding and catch on the insideof the bolt extension. Additionally the guide races in the DPMS have very sharp edges/tips that cut up the brass on my LR-308. A little judicious smoothing with a Dremel and some valve grinding compound followed with polishing with JB's bore paste worked wonders on my rifle.