COBrien

Seconded. I've got 2 TacOps handles, one for my LR-308 and one for my 5.56 rifle. Though I'd love to have a TacOps CQB for my 5.56, and put the "full-size" handle in a scoped setup I'm formulating...

Such a tragedy. She was only 22 years old. My thoughts and prayers go out to you and yours, Robo. All the officers of my wife's department and their families are including Natalie's family and friends in theirs.

I have a hard time wrapping my head around clamping the round "head" of the lapping tool in a vise. No flats, no knurling, nothing. Just clamping your serrated vise jaws onto a "precision ground" tool. Personally, I'd prefer a MagPul BEV Block and a PTG lapping tool. Granted, this won't work for "AR-10s" (am I the only one irrationally annoyed when companies generalize the term 'AR-10'? But I digress...). But a set of vise blocks for a .308 AR and a PTG lapping tool are still substantially cheaper than this... thing...

Ah. Gotcha. My build is based on a plain ol' M5.

I second this. AFAICT, the only difference between Aero's LPK and, say, a Luth-AR LPK is that the pivot and takedown pins are "custom-made for [their] M5 lower," and "may stick out farther" if used with any other DPMS-pattern lower. Quotes from Aero's website. I just put an Aero M5 lower together with a Luth-AR LPK and had no issues. The pivot pin is sunk in maybe 1/32" on the left side, and the takedown pin sticks out maybe 1/16" (makes it easy to get started). Now, the lower hasn't been run yet (waiting for DVOR to run another batch of Faxon barrels through at $185...), but I didn't notice anything unusual. Aside from the fact that I had to jump on Amazon and buy some 4-40x1/8" set screws...

Welcome aboard! First and foremost -- and I'm not trying to be "that guy" here, I promise -- you keep saying AR10 and DPMS. AR10 is a very specific pattern, and that is Armalite's pattern. DPMS LR-308 is a specific pattern, and is what you're building. Preferred terminology around here is .308 AR or "large frame AR" for generic use, or specific pattern names (i.e., LR-308) when it could possibly make a difference. Also, you have to be careful with DPMS... They released their "Gen II" or "GII" series of rifles a couple of years ago, and many parts don't interchange with LR-308 or "Gen I" parts. With that out of the way, I would be willing to bet the 80% lower you have is DPMS LR-308 ("Gen I") compatible. I can't say I've seen any AR-10 80% lowers. Your Moriarti upper should work, no problem. For your recoil/buffer system, your best bet is going to be picking up an Armalite AR-10 (I know, it's Armalite, but the recoil systems are cross-compatible) rifle-length system. It's all together, and it all works. Don't change a single part. https://www.armalite.com/product/ar-10-rifle-length-receiver-extension-kit-no-stock-ar10rekit02/ It shows to be out of stock right now, but sign up to get an e-mail notification and snag it quick. Finally, and I know you weren't necessarily looking for input on your build, but what are you planning to do with this rifle? A 24" bull barrel is going to turn an already heavy beast into an even heavier b*tch. For bench work, no worries. But for walking, stalking, etc., you may be better served (and happier) going with a 16"-18" barrel.

26,266 triggers purchased between 7/1/18 and 12/25/18, according to Mark's e-mail. That's 148 triggers PER DAY. That brings the total of MBTs purchased or installed in LaRue rifles to over 66,000. Now he wants to hit 100,000 by July 4, 2019. Almost makes me want to wait until July 1 and see if they drop the price even more, just to get to the magic number...

I understand that sentiment, I do. Rifles for myself and the wife fall squarely into that line of thinking. Money is no object, just make it perfect. That's why her rifle cost me $1,200.00 to build. Well, that and the fact that I got in a hurry there toward the end and didn't want to wait for sales. I've got him a LaRue MBT ($87 + shipping) on the way. This makes the 6th or 7th MBT I've purchased. I'm impressed, especially for the price. However, this rifle is a dare, to some extent. He was asking me about PSA PA-10s back in the spring, and was just losing his mind over the fact that he could get a complete "AR-10" [insert Hank Hill eye twitch] for ~$850 and that would only weigh 8.5(ish) lbs. So I popped off and said, "Give me some time to find some good deals on parts, and we can build you a much better rifle. But you're gonna have to bump your budget up a touch. Make it an even $1,000." So this is a build with a hard-line budget. So, watching for deals, some time on DVOR, and I've got a complete rifle built (in Excel) for $972.73, excluding sights/optics and a mag. That's with the Faxon barrel. And it should weigh in right around 7.25 lbs., again, sans sights/optics/mag.

I've got a friend who's asked me to help him assemble his first .308 AR. Wanting, essentially, an exact replica of the rifle I built for my wife, but in .308. While I ran a Criterion Hybrid in the wife's 5.56 rifle, he's not looking to spend that kind of money. I'd recommended the Faxon Big Gunner 16" mid-gas to him. Then he found the BA Modern Series 16" mid-gas. I know the Faxon barrels are, to some extent, "darlings" around here. The BA can be had for ~$40 less than the Faxon, but it's about 5 oz. heavier (not trying to go ultra-light, but obviously the lighter, the better). And I have zero experience with BA. Which of these two barrels would y'all gurus recommend, as far as accuracy, stringing, and general impressions of quality? TIA, fellas!

Just wanted to swing back through and update this thread. I learned my way around my new-to-me drill press, bought a better vise for it, and picked up a #35 drill bit. At low RPM, it went right though, like butter. Got 'er all put back together, with my A.R.M.S. 41-B folding FSB. Now to find a day when I can get out to the range...

RightToBear.com has the best prices on ToolCraft BCGs I've come across. Especially if you're looking for a 5.56 BCG...

This apparently happened in the last couple of days in my hometown. Luckily for the motorist, he wasn't seriously injured. But it could have been much, much worse. Be safe out there, fellas! https://kfor.com/2018/12/11/chickasha-man-shot-at-while-driving/?utm_campaign=trueAnthem%3A+Trending+Content&utm_content=5c10763504d3013c3b445422&utm_medium=trueAnthem&utm_source=facebook&fbclid=IwAR3zn8wsk7vgVSHb0eSO0KV8Pb1KxLGBRCh8NEUfjj1CMTGv_lsDBxBdE8M

Interesting. I wonder who the intended audience is. Beginners, as you mentioned, "professionals," etc.?

Run a Wylde reamer in the chamber -- guys did this with Mini-14 Targets (.223 Rem chamber) quite frequently. Shouldn't cost much to have a 'smith do the job.

I loved my Mini-14 for a decade (and would still own another one), then a buddy finally talked me out of it. Used the cash to fund another AR build... On an unrelated note, I have looked pretty hard at that Mossberg MVP "Predator Rifle" in .308. Put a forward Pic rail on it and a Burris 2-7x32 Scout scope, and I think it'd be a neat, lightweight .308 rifle. Note: I know Mossberg makes a .308 "Scout Rifle," but I appreciate the simplicity (and aesthetics...) of optics-only. And I love laminate stocks.

I assume we're talking about gas tube retaining pins. I've had great luck with the stainless steel, coiled and chamfered roll pins I stumbled upon on eBay -- a pack of 12 sells for, like 5-6 bucks with free shipping. Bigger bags (24+) cost only slightly more. Those pins, with a bench block designed for low-profile gas blocks (I picked up a PRI block, with punch, from DVOR for ~$10 a couple months ago) makes for short work. Good punches (roll pin holding punch, short-nose starter punch, and long-nose punch) make a world of difference, too. DVOR has a set of Grace USA punches that are of amazing quality. Finally, using a wooden toothpick to keep the gas tube aligned is a huge help. I cut one in half, push the pointed end through until the cut end is almost flush, then cut it 1/8" or so from the block on the back side. Leaves a great "slave pin", and I can re-use what's left of that half of the toothpick.

I have a soft spot for the old 10/22s. Real wood, fit and finish were excellent. They're completely different from the built-down-to-a-price 10/22s Ruger has been building for the last 10 years...

I've been looking for a "covert" type case to carry AR-style rifles around in. Not so much because I need to be covert, but because I've got 4-5 "traditional/tactical" rifle cases, and wanted something shorter, and that would carry more pew-pew paraphernalia. I like the look of the LaRue Covert case, but I can't justify near-as-makes-no-difference $200 for a case. I just can't. $100, and I can tell the wife it cost me $60. My ability to fudge numbers with her is inversely proportional to the amount of cash actually laid out -- the more I spent, the less I can "discount" to convince her it was a good deal. It's a curse. Rather than asking about them here (I still owe you guys at least 2 detailed reviews, per 'the Rule'), I just bought one. It's a G. Outdoors Products ("G.P.S."? Not sure where that comes from) Tactical Special Weapons Case from Optics Planet. It's 28" OAL, which, for 16"-barreled rifles, means it's a takedown-style case. Looks like it comes with 3 "hook-and-loop" (Velcro...) straps to tie the rifle down with (though G.P.S. Tactical assured me they now ship with 4 straps), 3 double-mag pouches (we'll see how well they fit .308 PMags) backed with Velcro, and 4 permanently-attached pouches for storing miscellaneous doodads. Outside dimensions (according to Amazon) appear to be 30"L x 11"W x 5"D. It ought to just fit a .308 AR upper with a 16" barrel, lengthwise. Review to follow, but in the meantime... http://www.goutdoorsproducts.com/products/tactical-special-weapons-case-28/

I just got this in an e-mail from LaRue Tactical. Mark LaRue seems like the kind of guy I'd like to eat fried turkey and drink beer with... Happy Thanksgiving to you turkeys and here's the specs on my TFP - Turkey Frying Process. Enjoy, Mark LaRue Take the turkey liver out of your bird –– throw it in a non-plastic coffee cup –– toss a couple spoons of your injectin' sauce on it –– now toss it in the microwave for 90 seconds. It's a tasty snack to enjoy while breakin' the bird out for injectin'. While I'm at it, here's my deep-fry-the-turkey process ... 1.) Strain a bottle of Zesty Italian salad dressing through some sort of strainer. 2.) Now dump about half a can of Tony Chechere's (green can) into the Italian slurry ... mix more than thoroughly. 3.) Prep the bird by whacking that tail thing-a-ma-jig off and all the loose skin related to it and while you're at it, cut that big scarf of skin off in the neck area too. 4.) Place the whole bird into one of those big throw-away aluminum pans. 5.) Cook the Liver now and snack on it. 6.) Now re-stir your TC/ID slurry , take the assembled injector syringe and suck 'er full and start pumpin' the turkey full ... just everywhere you can get the needle to poke in. Watch out and be careful, I blew a big squirt of it all over a nice shirt tonight (dammit). 6.) Next, cover with aluminum foil and let 'er marinate overnight. Now to the Deep Fryer ... 7.) I like the 42 qt. Aluminum Pot (w/strainer basket). And IIRC, it takes about 4 gallons of the peanut oil to bring the correct level for an 18-20 pound bird. Not critical. 8.) Bring oil to 375 degrees. Do not go over 375 'cause at around 425 degrees, the sucker will just light on fire all by itself (and then it's hell to put out). Speaking from experience I am. 9.) With the basket not yet in the oil, lower the bird into the strainer basket neck down, feet up. I find it best to throw the neck over to one side of the basket and lean the feet to the far side. You'll see what I mean. 10.) Ready to lower into the oil (it's a two-man job for max safety). I pass a broom handle through the basket handle and let the other guy grab his end while I got mine, and we then lift the bird in a coordinated fashion, center it over the oil, then lower it slowly in. I say slowly because that 375 degree oil sears the skin on the initial slow entry and that's good. Don't get scared in the lowering op. It'll boil and carry on, but stand your ground. 11.) As soon as it's in, scramble to get the broom handle out and the lid slammed on. Oh. and I forgot, one of those thermometers is to be attached to the basket. 12.) It's cookin' time. I run them ~4 minutes a pound (or until it floats is also good). A 20 lb. bird gets 75-80 minutes. 13.)The oil temp will drop, let it, but stabilize that temp at 325 degrees. 14.) Same drill to get it out. Run the broom handle through the basket handle ... get on either side, lift out, hold over oil and let drain awhile, lift on out and sit on a piece of plywood or a cardboard box of some sort. 15.) With gloved hands, grab the drumsticks and gently pick the bird out of the basket and place on a "clean" aluminum throwaway pan. 16.) Now here's where the proprietary LaRue process comes into play. Cut the whole damn thing up into fajitas, serve on hot flour tortillas with cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and salsa of some sort. The proper setup is cheese on the bottom, meat on top of the cheese, lettuce liberally slung all over, pico de guillo (sic) on top the lettuce, a good picante salsa slung on top of it all - fold it and enjoy. Chips and hot sauce go good with it too - heat your Mexican corn chips a little in the oven (to bring the oil out a little) and serve 'em hot. 17.) You're done and now a well-liked turkey scalder. The end - ML

I'd buy that in a heartbeat! I love the Minimalist I ran on the wife's patrol rifle. Lightweight and simple. I like the USS, but a more rapidly-adjustable LOP (not just the 1.25" or so that's spring-loaded) would be nice. Not everyone who shoots my rifles needs -- or wants -- my LOP, so having to get out a tool to adjust (or just "make do") is going to be a bit of a PITA. Also, it turns out using correct-height rings to mount a scope means an adjustable cheek riser is pretty much unnecessary. In those pics, I have the riser adjusted as needed. It's barely 1/4" above its lowest adjustment.

Two quick, not-so-great pics. Waiting on my muzzle brake to show up. FedEx says Saturday.

So, uhh... The rifle fairies that live in my garage found all those parts in my Jeep and put them together for me overnight. Or, at least, that's the story I'm telling. I got the two barrel nuts SLR sent me. Happily, one of them threaded on -- dry, by hand -- without complaint. So a little AeroShell 33 on the upper, install the barrel, and she torqued right down. 35 ft-lbs (SLR's torque spec for their barrel nuts) twice, then back to 35 ft-lbs. to lock it down. Fortunately, with SLR's barrel nuts, there's no need to "torque and test" with a gas tube. It's a Ron Popeil setup. The handguard top rail doesn't exactly match the upper's rail, height-wise. I didn't put calipers on it, but it feels like just a couple thousandths of difference. Gibbz upper works just as advertised, with their special cam pin installed. I'm really digging this setup. No optics mounted yet, that will have to wait until tonight. Also no muzzle brake installed, it's on its way from OpticsPlanet. Pics forthcoming, as soon as I can get a free 10 minutes at work.

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He was saying to run one down with grease to clean the threads, then to degrease and install dry. Weird, I know.

Oh yeah, that’s AR building 101, brother. The only reason I was even attempting to thread the barrel nut on the upper was for purposes of mocking it up to get an idea of what it was going to look like with the handguard and upper together. No barrel, no grease, just trying to run it down finger-right to familiarize myself with the parts (first SLR handguard for me, unique hardware).