98Z5V

FWIW, since I brought up the mile... You don't chase impacts at that distance. You better have a 1 MOA gun, and you need to be a 1 MOA shooter. You run your gun. You know your gun, you better know your dope, and you just dial your gun, and you run it. My .300 Win Mag is my Mile Gun. I dial that thing to 16.9 mils, and shoot. If it doesn't hit it, then it's pretty damn close, and I didn't quite get the wind call that shot. I've cold-bored that fucker ONCE. Perfect elevation, 3" to the left of center, of the very center of the target. I've second-shot hit it twice. First round, nope, 2nd - yep, impact. Dial it 16.9 mils every single time - that's what it does, where it needs to be, for that shot distance. You have to know your gun, your dope, your scope, and your dial-for-distance - and it all has to be accurate information. There's no room for "garbage-in/garbage-out" for that stuff - it needs to be dialed, as far as you can dial it. "Left impact, 1/2 target wide!" is your spotter's call. You better not adjust 1/2 target right, based on that, or you might go 2 targets right, if you do... One MOA gun, One MOA dude shooting - that's a sweet setup!!! Not even a One MOA target wide that you're shooting at in the first place... know your dope, know your scope, know your dial, shoot your gun. You hold the same exact thing to that last call of "Left impact, 1/2 target wide!" - run the exact same shot - same exact hold, same shot, same felt recoil through the gun, and same exact "target snapshot" in your scope when the trigger broke... Left first time, right this time. Run your gun. Run your dope. At that range, even reading the wind - the wind changes, indiscriminately, over that kind of distance. There's 2 things that you can do to mitigate that wind, over that kind of distance, shot-to-shot... Jack, and Shiit... Run your gun. You better know your gun...

There's some flaws in the MOA calculations in that article. Can be major ones, depending on how far you shoot. They didn't fuk the Mils up too bad (actually nailed it, 3.6" is one Mil at 100 yards), but I don't like how they just rounded up all the MOA stuff. If you shoot distance, don't round it up until the very end - you definitely don't round it up at the beginning, because that just fuks you down the line. Examples - MOA = 1.04" MOA actually is 1.047" at 100 yards. Run that one out long, and see how it does. Their calculation of .96 for one of their math problems. Well, it's actually .955, in the equation that they're running. Run that one out long, too. Here's what I teach - inches of target - we shoot IPSC plates out here, to train range estimation, target aquisition, and target engagement. IPSC targets are 18" wide. So are deer, belly to back, so are coyotes and average pigs, hoof/foot to top of back, so are deer, wide, when head on... 18". So, if you know that, going into it, for AVERAGE animals... then, teach that number. Here's the two formulas, and where the issues in that article come to life - and it's more important on MOA, because one Mil = 3.4377 MOA... The numbers for MOA are 3.4377 bigger than a mil. That's more refinement, and more reason to be more accurate in the calculations. One Mil is 3.6" at 100 yards. 1/10 Mil clicks is 0.36" per click. 3 clicks is roughly 1" @ 100 yards. Got it. One MOA is 1.047" at 100 yards. quarter clicks on most scopes, 1/4" per click. Got that, too. Here's the deal, for range estimation, both Mils and MOA, and the real numbers, that won't fuk you down the line, at longer ranges. INCHES of TARGET (You need to know what you're shooting at, especially hunting)... Inches of target DIVIDED BY observed Mils or MOA, TIMES the CONSTANT = YARDS to target. Here's the constants... The MIL constant is 27.778 (NOT 27.8, like you might find out there). The MOA constant is 95.5 (not the 96 factor in that article). 18" target width, observed by you, covers ONE MIL in your scope gradients. TIMES 27.778 = YARDS to target. Run it. 18" / 1 x 27.778 = 500.004 yards to target. Let's run the MOA on that one. One Mil = 3.4377 MOA. Given. 18" target, covers 3.4377 MOA in your crosshairs and scope gradients, so 18" DIVIDED BY observed MOA (3.4377) TIMES 95.5 = YARDS to target. Looks like this: 18"/3.4377 = 5.2360598. TIMES 95.5 = 500.04362 YARDS to target... That's the same damn shot, through both scopes, looking at the same target, buried in the ground by t-posts, and swinging off the same chains to the target. Or, on the hoof. FDE-colored critter, probably, if we're in North America. Deer, most squirrels, most rabbits, 1/2 the bear here - All FDE. Now, measure 1 Mil through a scope, and then try to MEASURE 3.4377 MOA through an MOA scope. Good luck on that one. If your eyeball is THAT calibrated, I want to drink at the campfire with YOU, COWBOY!... Weird, how math works. Weird, how math won't work right, when you round it all early, and fuk up all your constants, going in, from the beginning. For Mil shooters, I might be 1/10 or 2/10 off. For MOA shooters, supposedly the more accurate system as claimed by many MOA shooters, you might be WAY off and miss, if you're using that 96 claimed in that article, or that 1.04" claimed in that article. Don't run their numbers for some long distance. I have formulas out the ass on this stuff. Yards, meters, inches observed, yards observed, meters observed, centimeters observed, whatever. There's a formula for all of them. But, it's all garbage in/garbage out, if you start rounding all those numbers early in the formulas. Here's some MOA math... If it's really 1/4" per click, 4 clicks per MOA. IF one inch is one MOA at 100 yards - when it's really 1.047" at 100 yards. Quick math - I have a target that's 18" wide, and I place it at 1760 yards (common for us, and it's exactly what we shoot at one mile). So, 18" wide target at 1760 yards - that's bigger than one MOA, right? Nope, it's not one MOA wide. One MOA at a mile is 18.4272"... That 18" wide target is not even one MOA at a mile. And that's some hard shiit to pull off, whack a sub-MOA target at a mile... Math matters. Accurate math matters even more. Weaponize math, gents.

^^^ My preferred home defense tool. Also, not a "firearm" per BATFE's direct definition, in writing. I put a light and red dot on mine. Here's the direct link to the BATFE Determination Letter on the device: https://xproducts.com/content/Final-Approval-BATF-Can-Cannon.pdf Here's the best parts of it:

You CRACK ME UP, BROTHER!!!!

Nope, it's too short, in length. Well, you could mount it, it's just picatinny rail. But the Large Frame receiver is longer, and it would look quite odd.

Both of you... Nasty...

Standard AR15 rear sight will work just fine.

Yes, easily. Done it on mine.

I chased muzzle velocity for many years. Get the fastest. All I did was damage brass, to the point that I couldn't reload it... Chase the fast ones. Go for it. You'll come back around, eventually.

I just ran a LaRue 16" 6 ARC gun during a competition. That little thing scored the 3rd fasted time, on the timed stage, out of 59 people shooting that day. 10 targets, 20-round limit in the mags, 90 seconds per stage. 3rd fastest time on that stage. From a 16" barrel. It's an accurate gun. 10 targets, I shot 10 times, and had 10 hits. Done. OUT. Thanks for playing. Glad to be here. Longest range to target this month was 655 yards. Short guns can do it, and run range. Long range. If they're accurate guns. Barrel length, velocity - whatever. Make an accurate gun. I've run my 12.5" barreled 6.5 Grendel gun to 850 yards, with a Leupold 4x scope, dialing 10.6 mils of drop, for that load. Speed doesn't really matter. Accuracy is what really matters. Build an accurate gun.

Buy this book. Read it. Then read it 17 more times. You'll gain a real appreciation for External Ballistics.

This is the "KILLER" killer, right here. All the hunting mags (when real, print magazines were a thing) always told you that you needed 1000 ft-lbs of energy to kill something. That's complete bullshiit, right there on it's face - but everyone hangs on to that number. I've stated it numerous times. Right here. Projectile selection, Maximum Point Blank Range (MPBR), and accurate dope - I can kill anything within my MPBR without a hold over - dead hold. After that, I need to dial, for longer distances - or just simply hold-over, if I know my dope for the gun. Just weaponize math, man - that all it is. It's nothing more than math, and knowing what you're doing at distance, once you understand that.

What are you chasing? What's you goal for this gun? That needs to be answered first. What you want this gun to do for you...

I still want your hot sister, but I'll risk it and take your crazy sister in trade; I'm just sayin'...

All depends on projectile weight, and muzzle velocity. My .260 is running 147s at 2650fps. That barrel will live forever. If I decided on some crazy 95gr V-Max lightweight projectile, and bumped the muzzle velocity to 3200 fps, then I'll just kill barrels faster. I run 123s in the Grendels, 147s in the .260, 108s in the 6 ARCs, 178s for the .308 guns, and I'm starting up with 175s for the 7mm-08. I load heavy, because heavy goes a long way, better than lightweight projectiles do. I live in the desert, so "long shots" mean something different out here.

All that doesn't mean shiit. An accurate gun is an accurate gun. Get the muzzle velocity, make a dope chart, and it's still an accurate gun, with a shorter barrel. I try not to build anything with a barrel that's longer than 18". That barrel length, to me, is perfect, and you never need any more, IMHO. I didn't have a choice with my .260 Rem gun, and that thing is a 20" barrel. Oh well, still works great - just wish it was an 18" barrel. Being 20", and my muzzle velocity, it's 1500 yards supersonic. My 16" LaRue 6 ARC upper, with the handload for it moving 2649fps with the 108 ELD-M projectile - that thing is supersonic to 1075 yards - from a 16" barrel, small-frame AR. Drops just below supersonic right before 1100 yards. From a 16" small-frame gun. Is it accurate? Fuk yeah it is. First run out, break in, zero the scope at 100, and then run it right away - run it to 425 on a flower target (those things suck to hit), then run it to 900 yards on full-size steel. Accurate guns are accurate guns. Barrel length does not dictate whether a gun will be accurate. Which leads me to - How FAR do you want this gun to go, and can you do that distance? My Win Mag does a mile, with a 26" barrel - but it would still do that with a 20" barrel. I just don't want to send the whole gun off somewhere, just to get the barrel cut down. If I could do it close to here, and fast, then I'd do it. I know one guy that could do it - but it might take him 2 years to get it done. Not worth it to me. Don't get hung up on barrel length and velocity - just build an accurate gun. Barrel length doesn't really matter, for an accurate gun. But then - what are your expectations for this gun? How far do you want to make a poke with it??

THEN!... Send it to Kate! RE-gift it, you uptight bastard! She'll eat the chocolate dick, or the assholes, or whatever chocolate. She won't care what the shape is, because she's not as cranky as you, ya old fuqr...

Well, the pic was "Resistance Is Futile"... after that, those two fuckers just went off...

I'm one of very few guys down here in AZ that can carb-sync one of those bikes. I've worked on them extensively, and in turn, ridden the FUK out of them to make sure I did a good job syncing them... Been a Honda Red Level Tech (Certified Technician) since 2008.

That really was outstanding shooting - but there's no way that I CAN'T fuk with you...

My honest, no-bullshiit suggest is - leave it alone. Don't fuk with it, then.

@TeddyBro, We're going to need THIS LEVEL of information. Brace yourself, soundly, because YOU are the one that's gonna have to provide it. Read this thread - we need THIS info, documented here.

I'll need to clean all the maple syrup off it, maybe properly clean it, whatever. I can fix those ragged groups you got going on.

That thing sucks. You need to drive it down here and leave it with me, and I'll fix it. Promise.

I'm completely innocent in 99.9% of the shiit that's talked here. It's SUPER easy for someone to "drive-by" me, and try to implicate me into just about ANY topic that comes up. That's history on this board. I've said enough, for "enough snippets to come up..." In the end, I can always get myself out of it... and you fukkers are to blame... That's called "Plausible Deniability" right there...