98Z5V

I think you avoided my question, brother... <lmao> <laughs> I's bet money that you have one of these printers... ;D

What barrel are we talking about now? We're all over with parts at this time. List the barrel you're thinking about... but, at any rate, a 12" rail isn't going to cover a lo=pro gas block on a rifle gas system... If it's a midlength gs system, 12" will cover. Now, what barrel, at this point?...

It doesn't cover a lo-pro gas block on a rifle-gas system. You'll need the 13.8" to come to the end of a lo-pro gas block on a rifle gas system.

I was under the impression that his presence was mandatory?... <dontknow> ;D

We've been all over this one for a couple days, brother. <thumbsup> http://308ar.com/forum/general-discussion/3d-gun/ You have your own 3D printer, don't you?... ;D

Pic(s) of item for sale - one of the mandatory rules for this section, brother. Just getting that out there before you hear it again. <thumbsup>

You've got a lot to ponder - I wouldn't checkout that cart just yet, until you figure all this out. <thumbsup>

Well, now - I'm quite familiar with Geissele triggers. ALG Defense is a spin-off company of Geissele, and they only make two trigger products. Both are "refined" issue, military trriggers. The ACT - ALG Combat Trigger, is the upper offering of the two. With it coming in at the street-price of around $60, it's the only real, direct competitor to a Spike's NiB Battle Trigger, in both price, and features. I received my ALG ACT today, and promptly tossed it in a lower. This is the trigger I ordered for the 7.5" 5.56 pistol build (Rob will love this one... <laughs>). Installation is straight-forward, just like any other mil-spec component trigger. What I like the most after getting it in there - SMOOTH!!! Very smooth. I've had a Spike's NiB Battle Trigger since they first offered one - somewhere around summer-2010, I've been running one. It migrated from rifle to rifle, and eventually landed in the .45 ACP AR, where it will stay. Initially, it felt good, but it got better with time - smoothed out with use. It's a damn good trigger, and it did get better, the more rounds that went through it. THE ALG ACT BLOWS IT AWAY. Right out of the package, this trigger feels immensely better than the broken-in Spike's NiB trigger. This is one damn great battle trigger, and for the price, it can't be beat. Nothing in the standard trigger, or the $60 range, is going to be better. I already have another one on order. ;D <thumbsup>

Your call - it's up to what you want to do in the long run.

Just for flash hiding capability, and the secondary cheap price - YHM Phantom for the .308. There are lots of choices for that device out there. Many good, good, ones.

Woo Hoo!!! Congrats to that young man!!! He's about to embark on a 13-wk ass-whoopin', too - he probably knows that already... ;D <thumbsup>

Ask away, man - that's the best way to find out about this stuff. There is no "bad" question, really. Fire off as much as you need to before you order everything up. <thumbsup>

FWIW - forged is stronger than billet, too.

I did - no fancy machined stuff from other companies, that doesn't fit together or work properly. No headaches matching other parts, etc. It works. It's not as pretty as somebody's fancy machining, but that doesn't bother me in the least. We've seen fancy machined stuff that has major issues with functioning... I'm not referencing SI Defense in any way, above - just correcting your bad information about forged parts in the LR-308 upper and lower.

You might want to do a couple things here: 1. Call Midway, and ask them what the source of their information is. 2. Call the manufacturer, and ask them directly, what their products are made of.

Food for thought, in red...

You need to check out the CalGuns website, for accurate information on whether that rifle would be Cal-legal. That will be your best source of open information, without a doubt.

He had some kind of treatment he was doing to those areas, and he changed the programming on the front take-down pin lugs. I'm not even closely familiar with the stuff he was using to treat the layer separation, but he stated some product he was using. <dontknow>

Elevation marks on the wheel will work fine - here's the deal with 8/3 and 6/3 markings: All detachable carry handles will have 6/3 markings on them, if they're modeled after the real deal (or are the real deal). A2 rifles with fixed carry handles (part of the upper receivers) are going to be marked 8/3. The receivers are drilled for the 8/3 adjustment, and at max settings, some of that rear elevation mechanism is actually down inside the receiver. Can't do that on a flat-top. Since max adjustment must be contained inside the detachable carry handle, it doesn't have the same long range of the A2 receiver. Detachables are 6/3. <thumbsup>

Here are links to the fellow's blog, about printing a 3d lower. Parts 1 and 2, respectively: http://haveblue.org/?p=1041 http://haveblue.org/?p=1321

That monolithic might be a tough find, man. Good luck, and I hope one turns up for you. <thumbsup>

^^^ That's the old Plum Crazy design - not made from a 3D printer.

I'd still like to know what's driving the whole build - what the primary intentions for it are. That's gonna drive everything else, as far as recommendations go. If the primary role is home defense, then the guy needs to lok at another caliber, honestly. <dontknow>

That's not even funny at all... :o That's when I do all my plottin' and schemin'... :cookoo: Rob... :fawkdance:

That's the attitude, brother!!! <laughs> <lmao> <thumbsup> :happydrunks: I'm cryin' over here... <lmao>