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One thing to look at is what you're shooting, at what range, and determine total bullet drop. Tie that data into the adjustability of your scope, and you'll at least have the answer of whether or not you have the hardware capability to engage at that desired range. Example: My 20" 5.56 gun. 77 grain Sierra Matchkings. Here's what the data looks like for that up to 1,000 yards. I start getting some serious bullet drop at 700 yards - even after 600 yards. This thing will ring steel all day long at 600, and I need to get something setup past that. With the 100-yard zero on the scope, I can't engage 900 just with adjustments in elevation - there's alot of drop in there.

Should be a nice mid-80s when you get here. Great weather. <thumbsup>

Any sub-10lb .308 AR is a great achievement - you've done very, very well. <thumbsup> Add another pound for the full LR20 Pmag, and you're still inder 10lbs, loaded. That SWEET! 8)

Yeah, brother, and that was after "the hot part of the day," and it was cooling down. I'll never live there again. Never. <thumbsup> I'm down in the SE part of the state now - if you ever want to know how hot it is here (not bad, really), just look at the current Phoenix temp and subtract 20 degrees. I'm at 4600 feet in town. Higher elevation definitely helps. Visit without fear, my man. ;D

4:45pm on the 12 of August, 2007. One of the nasty days, which is every day all summer long, really... :-[

I lived in Phoenix for two years, and the summers were complete bullpoopy. It's like the surface of the sun. I rode a motorcycle every single day. When it's 118, the asphalt is something like 135. It was actually cooler to stop at a stop light, because when you were moving you just sweltered. Turn your oven on to 150, then stick your head in there, and you'll have an idea. The other 9 months out of the year there weren't bad, though. I'll see if I can dig out a pic of my back porch thermometer (which was always in the shade).

If you're coming out here - it's a big state. If you're coming anywhere close to the SE portion of the state, I've got a 600-yard range we can shoot on, and a badass sandwash I shoot locally - we can do anything down in that wash, man. <thumbsup> I'd gladly host you for a few days or weeks, man. ;D I've got "more than a few" 5.56 guns we can shoot, too. If you time it right, we can hunt for some pseudo-piggies - the Javelinas. Quick little suckas, right there. <laughs> It's a tough call between the locals here - some say you need to shoot them with the light bullets at higher FPS speeds, but I think the 75 and 77 grain bullets do a better job on them. It's epic. <lmao>

Alright. There's only two differences in the AR-15 PRS and the AR-10 PRS: On the AR-15, the cheekpiece is longer (front to back) because the charging handle on that gun is shorter, and the body that beds the cheekpiece fits that gap made by the cheekpiece. On the AR-10 model, since the charging handle is longer than the AR-15 charging handle, the cheekpiece is shorter, and the body on that one fits the cheekpiece, also. So, two differences - cheekpiece length, and the body of the stock to make both look aesthetically pleasing. You can make the AR-15 PRS work with the .308 AR semis, but you have to cut the cheekpiece down to clear the longer charging handle - it has to go all the way back in it's travel, or it won't work/function. That leaves an "aesthetically-ugly" gap with the front of the cheekpiece and the stock body, but the thing functions well. No big deal, really, unless it's in the looks-department. The RRA .308 charging handle is long. Loooong. To run the AR-10 PRS on the RRA .308 rifle, you need to cut the cheekpiece the same as you were running the AR-15 part on the other .308 ARs, just to make it work. If you run the AR-15 PRS on your RRA, you'll have a HUGE gap. If you run the AR-10 PRS on your RRA, you'll still have a gap, but it would be smaller than what you'd have to cut the AR-15 part to. Bottom line - it's up to you, and how you want it to work. Both will work, but you need to cut more of the cheekpiece on the AR-15 part, and the gap will be bigger.

I can snatch some detailed pics of the FNP sometime early next week. That's one sweet pistola. <thumbsup>

:o I build all of them myself, brother. Nobody make them for me. The only thing a shop has to do with my guns is transfer lowers... <thumbsup> PM me your state, and I'll see what I can dig up on the AR pistol laws. I can't believe you can legally own a Short Barreled Rifle, but can't own a semi-pistol. That's some screwy stuff, right there. :o I made one more addition to it - ATF legal addition of the CAA Stock Saddle, for storing my batteries for my light, which is not pictured in this view, unfortunately. <dontknow> The next change, pending paperwork approval and addition of the real stock, will only be the rail change. Waiting for the DD Mk18 RIS II rail to come in. With that and the stock, it's the finished SBR, even though it's just the AR Pistol right now.

If I ever buy a fully-already-built .308 AR, it's gonna be the OSR OBR. That's the best deal going for a full factory built rifle. LaRue whips everybody else's ass in this category, hands down. Edge, I'm officially jealous now. :-[ <thumbsup>

That's definitely the AR-10 PRS in his pics - no way would his charging handle clear an uncut AR-15 PRS. <thumbsup> Somewhere here on this site is a pic of the RRA .308 charging handle, compared to something else. That's a long bastard. I don't know why they designed it that way, other than to "be proprietary," but the thing is long. Cutting the AR-10 PRS cheekpiece would be mandatory to get to work, but cutting it would make it work on the RRA .308 semi rifles. About the same thing as cutting the AR-15 PRS to make it work on the other .308s out there. <thumbsup>

If it's an internal combustion engine, I can make it better. Like this:

Massoud. I think it might, but it won't be Bushmaster that gets it this time. They fugged the Masada (ACR) up badly. MagPul is still hanging onto the rights of the Massoud, so far. It's named after this fellow: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ahmad_Shah_Massoud The historical importance, and timeline, should be noted.

Hell with that stuff, brother - I can cut down large trees with my weedeater... :o

I've got the S3G in one gun - you'll still love it. Damn great trigger. <thumbsup> I'll try to replicate a run I made a couple weeks ago with that gun/trig. 18-something seconds for 19 rounds of fire. It was moving to four different shooting positions. Position 1 - engage one target, 3 rounds, move. Position 2 - engage two targets, 3 rounds each, move. Position 3 - engage one clay shotgun pigeon, end final time. Position 4 - engage 3 targets, 3 rounds each, move. Seems a little screwy by description, but it was: Start on 1, move to 2, bypass 3 and shoot 4, then run back to 3 and end the course. I had some butt-hurt buddies on my final run, and they didn't even want to go back out and shoot again to try to beat it. Homos. <lmao> I NEED to take my helmet-cam out there, hooked up to my mellon. It's a pretty fun course to shoot.

Custom Ti frame, twin turbo, wet shot nitrous system, on meth. Stupid fast. :o There's so much more to it, but most wouldn't even understand. It's way easier to build precision guns that run well, than to build something like this that runs well. I'm just sayin'... ;D

Damn, I need to go look for some pics. I love drag racing, but my type is uphill, on sand. I'll be back in a few with a build I did (was in on, to be exact) a couple years ago. Edge, you'll appreciate the hardware involved in building something like this... <thumbsup>

bgc, where was that pic taken, above? What river were you on, brother?

Hell are you working on, brother?!... <dontknow> Points ignition in what, man?...

I don't know, man... BOAT. "Break Out Another Thousand." A Boat is a hole in the water that you keep throwing money into... <laughs>

What are your state's laws concering AR pistols? Build it up as a pistol first, and you can still shoot it while you're waiting on the paperwork to get back. All it takes once you get the stamp back is a receiver extension and stock swap. Mine's still sitting in pistol config:

Yep, exactly. <thumbsup> Those things are phosphated, and the coating can vary. I think that's why they say they tested 30 bolts and came up with different numbers - the phosphate. It would be more than abnormal if the bolts were machined to different sizes, but I could sure see the coatings being inconsistant. And that's the stuff that will break in with use. Eventually, the front of the bolt under the lugs will smooth out, and so will the ring near the tail. I'm going to go pull a few for pics, and I'll post them in here. Different round counts on all.

I'd vote 5.56 for a few reasons, but that may change depending on how deep your stash of .308 Win ammo is. That can influence it greatly. Reasons for 5.56, at least for now. * You might only get to build one, if laws were to change and prevented you from building more in the future. * You need to train with it, shoot it. Short ARs are loud. If the only training area you have is a public range, it's gonna be less annoying to those around you if you're shooting a 5.56 SBR. If you're shooting a .308 SBR, someone's gonna get pissed. I have heard that the .308 SBRs really don't have much a difference in muzzle blast over the 5.56 guns, though. <dontknow> * You need to have at lest one 5.56 gun, so it might as well be an SBR. 5.56 SBR will definitely be able to do things that your .308s can't, like be deployed from a vehicle, not overpenetrate if used indoors (and they're great indoors). * Stocking up on 5.56 ammo is never a bad thing. Even if you only have one 5.56 gun, you can do something with the ammo... trade it to friends, support friends with 5.56 guns, or just keep it. You can carry a hell of alot more 5.56 over .308 Win rounds, by weight. Just a few things, others will say something... <thumbsup>

Hammer cocked, or in the fire position?