98Z5V

You just nailed it,with that statement alone. Don't over-think it. Build with smart parts selection. Once you have a running gun - you look at what it's doing, what you want it to do, and figure out how to change it to meet what you want it to do. You NEED it to cycle, every single time, within what it was designed to do. No matter what the ammo is...

It was after this during the trip, when the Count Basie went off, and this came on... ...that everything went south...

The difference here, is how you started this thread, and your giant boner that you have for race-gun parts, that you propagated throughout this thread. NOW,you're saying that your only goal is shooting 100 yards... Below, also in red, are your first few posts here, on what you needed. NEEDED. You insinuated that you already know the appropriate twist for shooting steel at 700-1000 yards - and you were not correct, because you don't know what projectiles you should be shooting, if 700-1000 yards is really a goal that you have - which it is not. Apparently. Keep in mind, I'm not making this up here - these were the first two posts that you made here. I didn't make them - YOU made them. Go back and read them, if you don't remember what you wrote. You were given some very solid recommendations - and then you went off the rails on race-gun parts, as well as quoting whatever "theoretically" that you learned on the inter-webz. Pure bullshiit. Whatever. Then, you get into youre race-gun parts argument: After all this bullshiit that you went through here, and your arguments on race-gun parts - that YOU don't even know WTF you're talking about... You buy a BCA barrel, and COMPLETELY change the direction of the topic that YOU started. Now, you're building a mythical $400 gun. You are some piece of work. What trigger time do you actually have? How much have you actually shot? I was nice in my replies throughout this thread with you, and your bullshiit, but those days are done. As far as guns go, you couldn't find your ass with both hands AND a map to it. You need to get over this "research" bullshiit, and what you think you've found as great info - and get a gun and shoot it. Then, after a hundred rounds, when you finally zero it - start to shoot it at 200 yards and see what happens. You're a long ways away from shooting and hitting anything at 700-1000 yards, like your original claim that you made for this gun - you'll not hit shiit at that distance, not where you are now. From what you're stating, and all your research, you're gonna need targets at 25 and 50, just to get something to a 100-yard zero. You, as I stated before, are just an Ask-Hole. Ask everything, then don't apply any results that you are given. Because, you research. Get a gun, and just shoot it. It's gonna become pretty clear once you do that. If you would have listened to the singe-most important piece of information that you were given in this thread, right at Post #2, you would have bought that Fulton Armory barrel. That's all out the window now, because you only want to shoot 100 yards, and all your original FLUFF was just that. Bullshiit, from you.

There are no $400 builds. Prove me wrong.

Are you talking about going straight to a 10oz buffer, right away? "Dimishing returns" in that regard? One big one would be -the gun doesn't function, because the gas system isn't up to par. That's one fast way to find out, though. You'll know before the first mag is gone.

Why you laughing - you went across country with him. Twice...

Yes, it will.

I'm not happy with you right now. I should be on Amazon looking for toilet paper, but I'm on Harbor Freight looking for small concrete mixers...

You fucker -after posting that, you have me wanting a fucking concrete mixer for a damn brass tumbler. I damn sure don't NEED it, but now I want to try it, and see if it's even worth a shiit. Fuk, man.

Damn Roman... That tumbler is the Elephant Ballsack-sized tumbler... You actually have one of those things, man?!

FIxed that for ya. If any of those facts are wrong - just simply prove them wrong, with data and other supporting facts. We're good with it.

You can look at schematics all you want, reference claims brought up here all you want. We've already done it, and most of that was by challenging ourselves to do it - "YOU THINK THIS WILL WORK?@!" "No WAY IN HELL, but since you thought about it, then just TRY IT!!!" And we did, years ago. From what you don't know, that's really how this place works. Someone posts up something that sounds un-possible. It's either proven, or debunked. You have no idea about how much money has been wasted - or proven - right here, between us all. Trying different things, or drilling out barrels. If we tell you something, and we're solid and serious about what we're telling you - then you need to know right now that you're wasting your time "pouring over barrel schematics to reference the claims brought up here..." You can research, whatever it is that you want to research, all you want. You can "reference any claims" that you want. Come back here with the information that our "claims" might be off - that helps ALL OF US. But you better bring some pretty solid proof on that shiit, because we have alot of experience on this platform. You better be "shadow of a doubt" on all of it. With facts. Facts that you can prove. We don't get paid, based on how you respond - nor do we care. You can say anything you want - doesn't bother us. Don't care. What really bothers us is when people doubt the information presented, talk shiit, but can't refute the information presented. That's not you, right now... but that's the big one. If you have other information that strikes anything stated, DOWN - then post it up and make all of us smarter. If you don't have that information... then... was the original information wrong?...

For the record, I've got a Bear Creek Arsenal barrel on my M4 Grendel, and it's a shooter. 16" Carbine gas barrel. In my build thread on this gun, and in another thread here, there's an account of that same barrel NOT shooting. Hit or miss with them, but they DO have a lifetime guarantee - and I specifically talked to them about this at this last SHOT Show. Talked directly to the owner of the company. I think I put that info up in the SHOT thread for this year, and the details of our conversation. Let's see if @Valetic can find my info on that specific information, since he's the research god. At any rate, this one shoots: Let's just hope that @Valetic's .308 barrel shoots. Well, no, we don't have to worry about that here - he must have bought that barrel from massive recommendations from his extensive research - from another board. Nobody here has recommended that barrel to him, but that's what he went with. After he was all JP-smack about everything, in every possible JP-configuration. Strange, the sudden turn in decision-and-purchase...

I feel normal, brother, but I'm always a jackass and a dickhead. Many testaments to that here, if I recall correctly... If anything, my demonstrated "calm and patience" throughout his barrel thread is proof that I'm either becoming weaker, or I'm becoming more lenient-towards-bullshiit in my old age.

For those that were reading this, and all the back-and-forth... Per his own statement, he went with a Bear Creek barrel. I don't know which one he went with, because they only offer 1:10" twist barrels. /end.

I almost went there, but I wanted to give him the benefit of the doubt on that. Oh, and HAD I went there, the "you're a meany" jackass would have decended upon me with great vengeance and furious anger... (^^^ That's a nod to our old friend, MaDuce, right there...)

I'll be calling Wilson Combat, for real, and asking for a 16" .260 Rem barrel. This is going down.

Wow... Wilson Combat is moving into a badass new rifle. Who says you can't get a 16" AR to 1k yards? We've (here) know this was very possible, a long time ago. Now I want to build a 16" .260 Rem... This is an impressive rifle. https://www.wilsoncombat.com/paul-howe-6-5-creedmoor/?utm_medium=email&utm_source=newsletter&utm_campaign=Paul Howe 65 CM Carbine&utm_source=Wilson+Combat&utm_campaign=d4f34b5566-retail-Paul-Howe-Carbine&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_d7d9381842-d4f34b5566-35734037&mc_cid=d4f34b5566&mc_eid=62818679f6 The hand-applied Camouflage Armor-Tuff finish has been developed to blend in well in many urban and rural environments, reduces the IR signature and also keeps the rifle cooler in high temperatures. The Paul Howe 6.5 Creedmoor base is our billet WC-10 large-format AR receiver set that will hold up to a lifetime of hard use. This precision rifle wears our match-grade, precision chambered stainless steel 16” barrel with deep lightening flutes and comes standard with our Accu-Tac flash hider. This barrel profile maintains an optimized size and weight profile without sacrificing accuracy or reliability. A two-stage Wilson Combat TTU with heavier springs for a 4.5-pound trigger release-- an ideal weight for gloved use in an operational environment-- is standard. Paul selected a Daniel Defense fixed front sight tower along with his CSAT rear aperture flip-up for fast, reliable combat sighting. The Paul Howe 6.5 Creedmoor can be ordered as a solo rifle, or as a complete package kitted with Paul's preferred Leupold optic, Wilson Combat lightweight scope mount, and Vickers sling. Lightweight and compact with match-grade accuracy, the Paul Howe 6.5 Creedmoor has all the features needed for outstanding overall performance. ----- Paul Howe is a high-risk training instructor that served 20 years in the US Army, ten of those in Special Operations. He served as a Tactical Team Leader in multiple combat operations and Senior firearms Instructor while assigned to a tier-one unit of US Army Special Operations. During his service and since his retirement he has become one of the most sought-after experts on close quarters combat and law enforcement/military small arms weapons and tactics in the world. Learn more about Paul Howe at www.combatshootingandtactics.com

Whatever. Enjoy, whatever you do. I'm sure that Bear Creek recommandation came from someplace, because nobody here mentioned it. Come back when you can think on your own.

This scares me. Way more than "a little..."

Awesome news! THis thread ain't done yet, though - Mods, don't close it. There's a funny ending coming up... I had NO IDEA how much LC brass Dion had, when he pitched it, but I said I'd take it all... My loan should be approved by the end of the week... I'm posting a pic of this stuff when it gets here...

The Leup with the FireDot, is still just a 4-dot mil-dot scope (my mistake, it's the TMR reticle, but still basic mils). I have one, love it, in 1.5-4 power. That PA R-GRID 2B is a GREAT scope, at $280. However, the only thing illuminated is the center dot. For a $300 street-price, that Athlon I listed has the whole grid illuminated. If you're shooting at night, or in limited vis - that really, really makes a huge difference. Here's where a full illuminated grid makes a difference - and how we all here, found out that it makes a difference. Targets at night, or very limited visibility, and even a mild wind. Targets are 100 yards, 300 yards, and 450 yards. A 3mph wind, and you can't see your grid to hold for it... then you're not hitting that 450...

Tell me how much - I have a home for it. Bastard.

RealAvid making some really great AR tools, and I've been eyeing them for over a year now at the local Sportsman's Warehouse stores - those guys carry them. I've almost pulled the trigger on a few of those armorer's blocks that they have. That kit is pretty complete, if you're starting with no AR tools, and you could easily cross a $250 barrier trying to piece all that together from scratch. It's worth it, worth the money, especially that "reaction rod" version that they have - but keep in mind that's all AR15-related stuff. Many tools in that kit will cross over to .308ARs, but that action rod won't. Still not a detractor from that kit, and it's price, though. You're covered for small-frame ARs with it. If I didn't have all the stuff I already do, I'd buy that kit. I'll still get a couple of their field tools, and some of those armorer's block that they make. It's good stuff.