98Z5V

Now I'm hungry...

Quality torque wrench for locking down barrel nuts - barrel nut range is HUGE, at 30~80lb/ft, so that part of it isn't really a big real - with such a huge range to hit. Look for something in the proper range, too, because all torque wrenches are least accurate in the bottom 20% of their range. That includes Snap-On, which is all I use - I have them for work, not guns, but they get used on my guns, too. For small shiit like scope mounts and things like that, go for quality. By once, cry once. My 1/4" drive Snap-On torque wrench has a range of 40in/lb to 200in/lb - way too high to use on scope mounts and rings, which are typically 25in/lb numbers. Sometimes as low as 15in/lb on some mounts. That badass little torque wrench doesn't even go down that far - and it's bottom 20% is the least accurate... For stuff like that, I have this Snap-On QDRIVER4 - <<<that's the model number. It's range is 5~40in/lb. The bottom 20% of that would go up to 12in/lb, but I use it to install windshield screws that cannot go over 6in/lb, or it can crack the plexiglass windshield - haven't cracked one yet.

What they stated is not true, but it doesn't pertain to a crush washer - there is a direct minimum torque spec for the military, installing an A2 on a rifle, with peel washers, and it's 20lb/ft. The military doesn't use crush washers. Slap a crush washer over your barrel, fat end of the crush washer towards the barrel end. Thread the muzzle device on there until it makes contact with the crush washer. You can "crush" a crush washer 540 degrees - that's 1.5 full turns. Crush washers start to "crush" at 20lb/ft, and they maintain that torque value, even as they crush. More than 1.5 full turns, and you can split it. There's no way in the world that you'd need to turn it more than 1.5 turns to time any muzzle device. Never used a crush washer on a weapon that you're gonna use for a suppressor host - any muzzle device that you attached the suppressor directly to. Never. Use peel washers, or the Precision Armament Accu-Washers for a suppressor host. I've been using Accu-Washers for everything over the last several years, and they're easy to set up. I keep the 1/2x28 and 5/8x24 kits on-hand, for every muzzle device install, even if it's on a bolt gun.

Damn good lookin' 1903, man!!! I love them. That thing is CLEAN!!!

Cycling the snap-caps and live ammo in a brand new action or gun isn't gonna tell us much, honestly. You'll have to shoot it and see what happens. See how if acts and reacts by sending some live ammo downrange. If your headspace was excessively short, a no-go gauge wouldn't close, but neither would an A-Zoom or live round. You've already proven that they both close, even though it might be a little tight. It's not gonna blow up when you shoot it, that's for sure. Run some ammo through it. Lube it well, beforehand, but don't lube (at all) that chamber.

Check out this little tiny desert badass. I didn't know what the fuk he was before this day, but I researched him afterwards - Burrowing Owl. Makes sense afterwards - his hole was right there. I pulled up to a stop sign, middle of nowhere - and this little fucker is mean-muggin' me big time. I was the one that was in the wrong neighborhood - it was HIS hood... That's a tiny little Can O'Ass Whoopin' right there - ready to beat the shiit out of me. He didn't care... Owls rock.

Owls are straight-up badasses, but somewhat looked aside when people talk about birds of prey. They're fucking silent, flying. Amazing creatures, just love 'em.

^^^ He's gonna make one hell of a cell-mate in prison...

That's a badass lookin' pup, brother!!! Hell yeah!!!

Normal.

They all look like that. Quoting the pic that you're talking about would help. Gas tubes have a max ID of 0.125", and they're all basically the same, in construction. There's a shiit-ton of 304 stainless gas tubes on the market, and I'll argue to my death that the proper material is 303 stainless, but the aftermarket doesn't care. 304 is cheaper. Next time you people here bitch about some top-brand company charging $50 for a M4 Carbine gas tube, when you can get it for $14 from "whoever" - that top-tier company was probably making that real no-poop REAL mil-spec gas tube from 303 stainless - and it's more expensive. Budget shop "xx" weas selling you that $14 gas tube that's all about mil-spec everything - and it's 304 stainless. My soapbox on gas tubes, and their proper construction...

There's always Wilson Combat, too. No other large management group is gonna buy out Bill Wilson, and his products will always be top notch. I haven't checked, but he might make a barrel for it.

You MUST post pics!... See if you can get a Storm Lake barrel for it, and it should work out. They were bought by Remington, and I think Remington killed the company... I think it's gone now...

He was here 22 minutes ago, but didn't say anything... Probably working on what to say, right now.

Invaluable piece of gear, right there. It will open your eyes, for sure.

@Radioactive, you have no idea what you're just done here...

4-40 set screws. If you found the info I posted - that I can't even find now, good work... I've used 6-32 set screws with good effect. You can just tap the hole for a 4-40, but for the 6-32, you have torun a drill bit first, ream that hole size up, before you run the 6-32 tap in there. Good work, man. Good job researching all this stuff, too - you're putting in the work to make your gun run, and that's appreciated here, more than you know.

That's a full factory rifle, of good quality. You didn't build a damn thing on it. You bought it. What's your gas tube length? Buffer weight? internal depth of your receiver extension? Gas port diameter? You don't know... you didn't have to figure it out, as you built it, and had issues. You bought rack-gun off a store shelf. That sample size of one is correct- for a good quality factory-built rifle. It's no LaRue rifle, or a full-on Wilson Combat, but it's a good quality rifle. Don't sweat him, brother - he built nothing here. He bought a gun, and shot it. He might have missed the part where I can break in a new AR15 with zero lube - because all the manufacturers have to be on the same page, or the built gun doesn't work. That's not .308AR stuff, though. Let him think what he thinks. He's cool.

This is exactly what I do, too. I made a jig to work, and didn't buy a jig to get it done. Well done, man.

Read this thread, and look at the detail on parts that this guy posted, and look at the responses he got - this is the level of detail needed here, in order to figure out what's REALLY going on with your gun.

Okay.

The only issue I ever had with my XDs-45 was self induced - I shot it like I'd shoot a 1911, and I was limp-wristing that little gun. It only took 2 mags to figure out what I was doing, and it stopped the issue by choking up on it. Limping it cause it to stop the slide from fully going forward. I'd see it, and have to bump it forward. Once I held onto it for real, that went away. It's been flawless ever since. I'm talking about the XDs-45 here, and not the XD-45. Talking about that little bastard.

Hey brother - did you do this version of it, through SA LEO sales? Looks alot like the Glock Blue Label program. https://www.springfield-armory.com/law-enforcement/

Same here. When I picked mine up, it was like winning Gun Store Lottery - it's the full grip, 4" barrel, thumb safety version - the LEO pistol config. I love that pistol.

Does this tire make my ass look fat?...