98Z5V

Put the tape IN it - you need the internal depth, that's what counts. Measure at the top, because some of these things have a "flare" at the bottom portion, to better catch the buffer retainer.

Been wanting to do one of these for a long time, either this or a SAM-R or something. Found out that the Gun Pusher had a Knight's M5 RAS that he's been dying to get out of that shop, and he had it marked at $60. BAM! OFF TO THE RACES!!! Aero has an M16A4 marked lower receiver, so I started searching for lower parts - damn if I could find a complete A2 buttstock assembly in stock anywhere for cheap. Ridiculous prices on a bunch of recoil systems-with-stock, so I said fuk it, and had the Gun Pusher just get me a complete Aero M16A4 lower. He's tight with Ballistic Advantage, so I had him get me the barrel, too. BA Modern Series SPR barrel, black nitrided, 4150 CMV. Pulled the barrel for $130, and the complete lower for $210 - GP John owed me for putting a set of race cams in his YXZ1000R rig, so I got a screamin' deal on parts... This is where I deviate, in my own way, from an M16A4 "Clone Rifle" - I did this my way. This is the way I'd have this gun modified by my badass unit Armorers, if I had access to them whilst I was stuck with an M16A4 gun. Here's what my notes to the Armorers would be when I turned the gun in: "Get that 20" barrel off there, and get me a spare SPR barrel on this gun. Keep the A2 flash suppressor on there until some Mk12 collars and brakes show up. Get the Mk12 Mod 0 front sight on the barrel. Put a Match Trigger in it, and put on a Magpul aluminum trigger guard and K2 grip, install a Battle Arms Development Ambi safety, keep the A2 stock and recoil system. Keep the MaTech BUIS on there, and ACOG it." That would be my work list for the Armorers to do to the gun. I'd run the M16A4 that way, all day, wouldn't care if it was free-floated barrel or not. I could beat the SHIIT out of the gun in that configuration, and still shoot some distance with it, and never break it. That's what I did, and used an Armalite National Match trigger in it. Primary Arms got the nod for the fixed 5x Prism scope - I'll take that all day at about $300, over shelling out the major coin for a 4x ACOG. I like the reticle in the PA 5x prism, alot. I like the ability to run red or green illum, and I run the green way more often. Bitchin' little optic. So, here it is - gets the irons and optic zero'd in the morning, then I leave for SHOT later in the afternoon.

This is the FOURTH confirmed problem we've seen with the Gibbz platform here. This is #4. Here is the Gibbz history here. There have been no resolutions or fixes found, as far as I know. https://forum.308ar.com/search/?q=Gibbz

You fuckin' NAILED IT!!! I knew you would, too - handguard endcap, not a free-floated barrel - KNEW you'd catch that... M16A4, my way. This is how I would have an M16A4 - if that's what I had to carry - modified by my badass unit Armorers, if I had access to my badass unit Armorers whilst stuck with an A4 gun. I'm with you, exactly, about that. My Nordic barrel isn't coming off that Mod 0 until it's shot out. No way. My PRI top PEQ rail isn't coming off toput on a Swan Sleeve, either. Same with my PRI rear sight, same reason. That gun works so well, it would be crazy to rip it apart. I'm with you, brother. I'll definitely call my Mod 0 a Mk12 Mod 0, even if it isn't military clone-perfect. Same with the Mod 1. My Mod H needs work to get it there, though.

Measure the internal depth of that receiver extension. It should be 7.000" internal depth, and not even a little over that. If it follows the Armalite M15 spec, it will be 6 15/16" internal depth. I had a receiver extension from a well-respected company measure in at 7.100" internal depth, and it created the exact same problem you're having right now... Live Free sells good parts - their uppers and lowers are made by Matrix Aerospace.

OP, what's your goal in cutting the receivers? Weight loss? Or to look different? Define what it is that you want to achieve, first, instead of just soliciting opinions on cutting them up. I think it has zero value, but I have no idea what you're trying to do here.

^^^ I LOVE MY OLIGHTS!!!

This is why I love this place...

If you're shooting 150 yards or less, I'd go with something that's easier to carry - cut that barrel length down, and make a 16" gun. If you think that you'll be shooting the same .308 Win handload through this, as you do through the bolt gun - just make it a .308 Win AR. If you anticipate a completely separate handload for the Hog AR, than the .308 bolt gun - might as well make that thing a .338 Fed, pick up a set of .338 Fed dies, and neck some .308 Win brass up to .338. It'll be a far more efficient hog gun that way. Wilson Combat has the .338 Fed barrels, and they are very accurate.

No. The BCG had to be fully forward, and the bolt needs to be completely locked in the extension, for the firing pin to even reach the primer. Just the inertial force (weight of the firing pin) isn't gonna be enough to set that primer off. The parts you listed are smart parts to use - what's the receiver extension, though? It's a Carbine extension, for sure - but what's the internal depth of it? What brand of upper and lower?

Excellent information!!! If you just need one to bust hogs, think about .338 Federal. All you're doing is necking up .308Win cases. I'm loading up 225gr Hornady SSTs in mine, and they shoot great. Distance wise, are you hunting the hogs from a long way off, running hogs (like farm eradication, where you set up at different places, and have to move to get on them), or are you in a fixed static position, and wait for them to come in? .338 Fed will get you to 300 yards, easy,very minor holds/corrections.

The very first ones were the ones with the thumb wheel, and they're rare as hen's teeth, and CRAZY EXPENSIVE. Very few were made. I think they make a retro kit now, so you can convert your (one like the ones I have) to make them look like those original few. You adjust this just like any other AR fixed front sight - with a sight tool. So, quick check of the website - I see that they brought the original back, adjustment wheel, makes it tool-less adjustment. Fuk me, I need that on my Mod 0 gun. https://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1359628&CAT=12357 Yeah - here's the conversion part - this was out less than a year ago. https://www.precisionreflex.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1361255&CAT=12357 Looks like the Gen 2s that I have are discontinued - so I've got the rare ones now...

I was thinking "BRILLIANT Breacher Standoff, right there!" Plant that thing and it's not moving. Turn your head so you don't eat wood, BOOM!

Found this one out from our brothers at Full30 - GIANT issue with the Full Auto SCAR... Kinda scary... https://www.full30.com/watch/MDA0OTE5/the-real-problem-with-the-full-auto-scar

I LOVE it!!!

That's not it, brother. Look closer... @blue109 is gonna nail this one, and bust me out... I also lied (deceived?) about a number earlier. I have another BA Mk12 SPR barrel - on a gun I haven't announced yet... It's still a secret..

This piece right here is pure fuckin' genious, brother - very well done.

He couldn't wait... BWAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAHAHAHAAAAA!!!! Fuckin' WELL DONE, ROB!!! THAT BITCH IS BAD!!! It's a Shockwave, Eric - it's a14" barreled Mossberg 590.

Titties, Thompson, and Tattoos?...

Exactly!

Do you reload ammunition? Are you a reloader?

Precision Reflex (PRI) sells complete Mk12 Mod 0 (Gen III or Gen II) and Mod H rifles - you just need to pick your optic and mount, and get it on. https://www.precisionreflex.com/rifle_packages_pr-8619.aspx

If anyone wants to build a Mk12, the heart of the entire system is the barrel, and you need a very good one. Don't waste the money on uber-expensive barrels, custom-this-and-that - just get a Ballistic Advantage Mk12 barrel - their SPR barrel. I have 4 of them now, Mod 1 is a 5.56 BA 18" SPR barrel, Heavy Grendel is a 6.5G BA 18" SPR barrel, Mod H is the 16" BA SPR Mod H barrel, and the .224 Valk is the 18" BA SPR barrel. @Matt.Cross Mk 12 Mod 1 is the 6.5 Grendel 18" BA SPR barrel. These things WORK, and they don't break the bank, compared to some other "Mk12 specialty barrels." Every one of mine is well under a 1MOA barrel, all day long. My Mod 0 is a Nordic Components 18" precision barrel, that was made by Wilson Arms (not Wilson Combat - different company). Here are the BA barrels that you'd need for one of these builds: 18" .223 Wylde SPR (Mk12 Mod 0 and Mod 1): https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/18-inch-223-wylde-spr-rifle-length-ss-premium-barrel-ops12.html 16: .223 Wylde Mod H SPR: https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/16-inch-223-wylde-spr-mid-length-ss-premium-barrel.html BA now offers them in black nitride now, as well: https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/ar15-barrels/premium-series/223-wylde-premium-black-series Here's the .224 Valkyrie in 18" SPR profile: https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/18-inch-224-valkyrie-spr-rifle-length-ss-premium-barrel.html Here's the Grendel in both 18" and 16" SPR profiles: https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/18-inch-65-grendel-spr-rifle-ss-premium-barrel.html https://www.ballisticadvantage.com/16-inch-65-grendel-spr-mid-ss-premium-barrel.html There is no reason to look at any other barrel manufacturer, if you want to build your own Mk12. There really isn't. You'll spend alot more money on something that won't really give you a giant benefit over a BA barrel - or you'll save alot more money on a shiit-barrel from someone selling cheap barrels, and it won't shoot anywhere close to the BA barrels.

^^^ That Mod H above is still a work in progress. It'll get finished, one day. Mk12s dominated the day for the High Angle portion at the last Fall Shoot.

It indeed is. Work of Art, and Function. Sharp eyes will catch something very specific in the pics of this front sight here... I'm with @blue109 on this. I'll never, ever use any Dick Swan parts, ever. There are people that go crazy using exact this-and-that, and I respect that. I'll never do it. I'll use correct major components, but I'll always default to my own personal preferences on a gun, too. Mk12 Mod 0 needs to be running the PRI handguard. Check. It also spec's a specific top rail - that I'll never use - but I'll use the PRI top rail, all day long. IMHO, I don't want to build a 100% period-correct weapon - I want the performance of that weapons platform. Another example - Mod 1s used the KAC rail. Yeah, I get it - I'd rather have the LaRue rail on there, and still make the gun function, as it was functionally designed. I'll stick to the principle of the gun - not the specific choice in it's original parts list. My Mk12 Mod 0 top, Mk12 Mod 1 middle, Mk12 Mod H bottom: The Mod H is a 6.5 Grendel, and it smokes the other two. Badly.