98Z5V

Yeah. You're gonna be fun.

I don't know, brother - I think I'm gonna keep that M16A4 top-sling adaptor on there... Undecided right now... Plus, I'm all out of those Noveske Flush Cups now... Hey, @Ravenworks, thanks for your For Sale solicitation right in the middle of my build thread. Pimp that shiit in the For Sale thread.

What "fact"did I overlook? What "website sssociate" stated something that you think backs up what you state, or THINK? Where does your "research" over-reach my opinion - and more importantly, my EXPERIENCE on this .308AR platform?... How is it that you think your "research" over-rides what I've already done with this platform? I'll wait for your answer.

You're gonna be fun.

Yeah, you've given us a hell of a laugh - that's for sure. Enjoy your stay. Maybe you should eat more meat, calm your ass down a little.

Yeah, you should, because you don't even know what you're quoting here.

That's where your ASSUMPTION falls critically short. They're NOT ALL THE SAME - THEY'RE ALL DIFFERENT. Yeah, but you won't listen - you already know it all, and you're saying they're all the same. Good Luck. That has to start with YOU here - Stop being an A$shole. Once you do that,so will everyone else. Don't be a Dickhead here.

^^^ I was way less "subtle"about it. Call that my downfall.

This shows exactly what you DON'T know -and you're blaming us for a manufacturing market for a .308AR platform that does what it wants, based on a lack of a set standard, or a set platform. There is NOTHING about a .308AR that's standardized. NOTHING. Not trying to, but you're making it hard here. Really hard. Everyone in this thread has been curteous to you, so don't turn into an a$shole now, and demand that people haven't. Get your shiit in check. Quick, too. You're asking about small-frame ARs in .308 Win platform - and there are 4 custom manufacturers of those guns. No more. Then, on top of that, you're asking if those parts, from those 4 proprietary manufacturers will swap. You boned the 5th one - the M&P isn't a small-frame .308. YOU might be the answer here, to these rare, seldom owned small-frame ARs. There are very few people here that even own the DPMS GII. Let alone those other three over-priced answers, that are looking for a question to solve. Maybe you should buy all 4 - then come back here and be the fucking expert on it all. In the meantime, don't be blaming anyone here for trying to help you out. You can fuk yourself.

You do realize that there is ZERO pattern to follow in the .308AR world - there is no TDP, like there is for the AR15 family of firearms. Nothing is set, and any manufacturer can do whatever they want (i.e., PSA). There's zero guarantee that anything from any manufacturer will actually even work in the first place (Iron Ridge Arms, for example), let alone swap to a different manufacturer...

For something like this, then - why are you asking us?... If you have the answers, why are the questions being posted here?...

Call Adams Arms and ask them. Phone-in to a human, and point-blank them with that question.

It would be either Pure Luck or Witchcraft if those 5 swapped parts, and it's about a 100% certainty that they will not swap parts. You just listed 4 companies that love to produce their own proprietary parts - because that's what they do. The M&P 10 is not one of those "small-frame" .308ARs, though.

I hit the website right away, and didn't find it. Adjustable gas for suppressed/unsuppressed use is smart. One of these days, I'll add suppressors into the mix, and it's gonna cost me bigtime...

That's a high quality barrel - we're working with 20" Rifle gas and 0.750" gas block diameter. I didn't know that 4.5 turns out was wide open on that gas block. I never use adjustable gas blocks, so I don't know what the settings are on any of them. 20" Rifle gas with a .750 journal area is gonna be about the same dwell time as a 16" Midlength gas with a .750" journal. Pretty close. You need 0.080~0.085" to properly run a 16"Midlength .750 journal-barrel, so you'll need a gas port diameter close to a range of 0.080~0.085". What's the gas port diameter that Faxon drilled in that one that you have?

What brand is the barrel, and what's the chamber look like? Able to get in there close enough with a small flashlight and check it out?

Completely normal. That happens as the brand new gun breaks in. It'll slow down or cease after the break in.

That's the same barrel that I used for my shorty -damn is it a shooter! You'll love that one, for sure.

Caught this BS over on Full30.com - Great find, Brothers from my other Mother: https://joebiden.com/gunsafety/

It's a 100% gas problem, then - it is NOT a recoil problem, at all. It's all in the gas. You start an adjustable gas block WIDE OPEN. All the way, no joke, not kidding you. You get the gun WET, you break the gun in, THEN you start adjusting gas down to your desirable level. All those steps, in that order. That's the only way totune an adjustable gas block on a brand new build If you don't start an adjustable gas block WIDE OPEN, full-on - then you'll never, ever know if the gas port in the barrel is even large enough in the first place - which is a proven issue on .308ARs. If you wide-open it on a broken in gun - and it STILL doesn't hold the bolt to the rear on a single round - that gas port needs to be drilled up, right then. For now, stop looking at ejection patterns, and break the gun in. Get it wet, break it in, THEN play with the adjustable gasblock. This is why we don't complicate shiit with complicated shiit.

That right there tells you that it's the upper receiver that's out of spec - not the PMag.

DAAAAAAYUMMMM!!!!! That's a BADASS DEAL, RIGHT THERE!!!

I love it - have it on the M4 Grendel, too. It's a great optic, brother.

I'll track it down, brother. I'll post from there, and let you know.