98Z5V

Yes. Will have glass in a LaRue LT158 SPR-S mount, and I'm leaning hard towards the PA 4~14 5.56 DMR scope. Irons will be offset MBus Pros. This is the scope: http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44mm-riflescope-acss-hud-dmr-5-56-nato-reticle-pa4-14xffp-acss-hud-dmr-5-56

I think the new one will fit right in with it's older brother...

Been kinda kicking around the idea of a US Army SDM-R or the USMC SAM-R for a long time. After much thought, that plan went sideways (for now) and turned into a Mk 12 Mod 1. All because I KNEW I had an old deployment bag with a KAC rail panel set in it - I just couldn't find the damn thing... Well, I found it, and there was a brand new KAC pistol grip in there, too. So, plans changed, and the SDM-R/SAM-R thought turned into the Mod 1. Found an A2 stock in the back of a closet... What launched this damn parts-search inside the compound was a LaRue sale. They had their 13.2" rail for $100 off... Damnit... Original plan was to LaRue this thing out - I'd rather have the LaRue 13.2 rail on there over the KAC 12" rail in the first place - and I'm sure, in the development of the firearms world, some of the original Mod 1s would have had that rail on it, too, for more rail-estate... Then, Matt trips me up and says "You gotta go with the Ops Inc collar and brake, and we'll toss my Ops 12th on there this fall!!!" Shiit, so the LaRue Stealth barrel is out now - and I found a suitable replacement. Ballistic Advange 18" SPR barrel, rifle gas, 1:8" twist, .223 Wylde Chamber, SPR profile - I must say, I REALLY like this barrel! Here's where we sit, right now, but plenty of parts are still on the way. Rail is ordered, but with a 2~6 week availability. Bunch of small parts on the way. Waiting for a big Geissele sale somewhere, and I'll snatch another Hi-Speed DMR trigger... Blue will like this...

I'm positive that I don't have any of it in the house - but I'll probably have some of the brass. I usually end up with it after a shooting session, picking up brass.

Shouldn't be the .223 Rem ammo, just the NATO. It'll have FC in the case head, the NATO stamp, and 5.56...

The basic idea of them came from these things, brother -

It's a buyer's market right now because so many "stockers, shops and vendors" thought Hitt-lery was gonna be elected - and they were gonna GET RIIIIIIICH!!!!!!... Sucks to be those places that over-extended their credit, banking on the evident gun-ban that would have come, and pimping their inventory at "pre-ban" inventory and prices through the roof. Fucking sucks for them. Trump is making America great again, and we, as firearms enthusiasts, are now reaping the benefits of bad business decisions. Boost that economy! I like it! There's are millions - literally - of images of quotes of her trying to take our firearms...

I just use these ones - whenever I need them, it's the last part of a build, sling is already here, and I forgot about them. I swing by Cabela's, and they have these. They have MagPuls, also, at $15 each... These things retail at $19.99 for both, in a package - cheaper than the rest, and haven't failed me yet. I think you're putting way too much thought into this one, brother, I really do. These things aren't the weak link in sling attachment to your rifle. Get something made of steel, and you're good. Really...

There is sealant around the case mouth, when you pull bullets - .mil requirement; All .mil ammo is waterPROOF down to 250 feet. And you can see colored sealant on .mil ammo at the primer, usually red or green - but that shiit doesn't affect how you prep brass from LC, or any other mil-spec ammo... Federal ammo fucking sucks to process. It's that simple. It looks like you guys haven't processed that much of it - try that Fed XM193, and tell me what you think. You'll see what I'm talking about. Have some spare decapping pins ready... fornicate that ammo.

Thank god there's one here - all questions, and complaints, get directed to HIM...

Next time I'm presented with the "Federal Challenge," I'll give that a shot - it might make a difference.

Nah, not really - those primers are crimped in there on all NATO brass, but there's no standard for the "crimping" that needs to be performed. LC uses the best method, IMHO, with a 4-corner crimp. I don't know what the hell Federal does, but they sure make sure those primers don't come out...

I HATE reloading that Federal XM193 brass. The first time sucks. Getting the primer crimp out of that shiit will drive a man crazy. The crimp is so damn tight that the primer pockets get deformed inward - it even "sticks" on my RCBS Swager 2 tool... I've had more than 1 probably 4 or 5 decapping pins break off trying to get the primers out... After that first time, though - it's good brass. It's just alot of work...

My first BA barrel arrived today - I feel embarrassed for not trying one earlier, but this should be a good one. I still have a ways to go to finish the rifle, but I can't wait to shoot this barrel. http://ballisticadvantage.com/18-inch-223-wylde-spr-mid-length-ss-premium-barrel-ops12.html

I don't think you need to go as deep as the original bolt stop cutout. You can cut to this (second) line here,and you'd be okay. You can determine the thickness of that with a digital caliper, and compare it to the two numbers I posted above. Total thickness at the magwell cuts, minus the depth of that recess on the sides, of the bolt catch cutout.

You gotta get some pics up when it's finished- I really like that BA modern series barrel. This should be an awesome rifle.

Bro, you're in virgin territory with this mad motherfucker. You need to tell us what works...

Solved.

Measured the Matrix and one of the Aero uppers, in that bolt catch area, just to give you a reference. Bolt catch thickness area, from the inner machining - Aero was 0.075" and the Matrix was 0.060" thick, in those areas. You can cut. Lemme know if the dimensions I'm talking about don't make sense - I'm talking about how "thin" you could shave that area forward, and not have to worry,based in different manufacturers wall thickness there. IMHO, it's not a high stress area, and you could go thinner, maybe 0.050". Matrix at 0.060" first, then Aero at 0.075" second.

I ran it through Goggle-Fu to see what I'd get. Tons of pics, many combinations. https://www.google.com/search?q=308+ar+16"+barrel+15"+rail&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwigvMb0tfbUAhXr7YMKHZyYDV8Q_AUIBigB&biw=1138&bih=549

Just saw it - surprised they posted it. Other people need to know...

I'll text him right now. Last time I did, it was a couple days before he got back to me. I miss him, too - I can't keep up with the news like that fucker can. EDIT - msg out.

Nope. That ain't it.Screw my last ass-essment. Magwell length in the upper is 3.550" on a 308AR upper. For a .308 Win caliber upper, or any derivative. Note closely how far back my 308 BCG is, back of the BCG body, firing pin location, etc. Yours is the same, from your pics above. Your bolt catch cutout is on the wrong place, and that's not a long-action upper. The pic below is my Matrix upper. I think this posting-attemp will attach your pic first, then mine...

That's a THICK back on that bolt catch, for what it's worth. That thing can take some shaving. The more I look at it, the more I think that's a long action upper. YOUR bolt catch recess on the upper is further back than normal - but so are the recesses in the upper for a magazine. For a longer magazine?... That needs compared to a known 308ar upper, dimension-wise. I'll measure as many as you need for reference info - I have DPMS, Aero Precision, and Matrix Aerospace to go from. How far back that magwell recess/cut in the upper extends readward, from the front pivot pin area...