barrel cleaning

[Robocop1051]

Anyone here ever completely clean their barrels... I mean strip them down to like they were never shot... and then have to go through a break in process all over again.

I'm debated on starting over on my barrel.

Just looking at how much work I have ahead of me.

[blue109]

what could you do to a barrel that would require a whole new break in?

[survivalshop]

  I have & still do , if round count up or seeing funny things in my grouping, Copper bore solvent till the patch comes clean . ( get the green out ) . Takes about 20-40 rounds to re-season the Barrel again , till the barrel groups better again .

 The Army Marksmanship program operates the same way , is where I looked before starting this procedure .

Edited March 7, 2015 by survivalshop

[Dane Armory]

I have on a couple of my guns ! What a PITA ! !

Lance ,"Let's me do that to customers guns"

Copper solvent and some industrial cleaner, $hit works great.

Shooting at 4 moa for a mag, run patches every couple rounds.

Normal break in.

[98Z5V]

I just bought a pretty badass digital borescope, thing takes pics and vids.  I'll scope a new barrel and put the vid up.

[survivalshop]

I just bought a pretty badass digital borescope, thing takes pics and vids.  I'll scope a new barrel and put the vid up.

 

 I've been wanting one of those , Which did you buy ?

[98Z5V]

I'll have to look at it and see - tool truck came by work, and it was on there for $225.  Snatched it.

[Zebra644]

Ok stupid question then fellas? I know the whole debate about barrel break in myth or legend. DD says all good and after bench resting my new M-4 V11 with a wicked tight group I believe them. Now on bigger / precision rifles such as  on my Armalite AR-10 Super SASS and my previous DPMS LR-308 both companies gave explicit instructions in the owners manual on how to do so and that they strongly recommend it. Ok so, if I understand correctly the whole point of barrel break in is to 1. become familiar with the rifle and work on fundamentals 2. to use the bullet to smooth out any minor imperfections in the rifling and you clean after X-Amount of shots to remove copper / minor metal fowling to basically hone the rifling. So once you did this and you have shot say 2,500 rounds before copper fowling degrades accuracy and you need to remove the copper build up, hasn't the barrel been, "broke in"?

 

Robo After removing all the copper build up you should see a tighter group and possibly a minor POI shift from a better grab on the bullet. My old Remy 700 would do that and I recommend Copper Ease in a white bottle blue screw on top. 

[98Z5V]

 2. to use the bullet to smooth out any minor imperfections in the rifling and you clean after X-Amount of shots to remove copper / minor metal fowling to basically hone the rifling. So once you did this and you have shot say 2,500 rounds before copper fowling degrades accuracy and you need to remove the copper build up, hasn't the barrel been, "broke in"?

 

 

You got it., right there.  Match barrel and hand-lapped barrels are just that - those imperfections in the rifling are smoothed before the barrel gets to you.  Already done, so you don't have to.  Tubb Final Finish ammo will make the process faster, through the use of slightly abrasive projectiles (break in a barrel with less rounds). Your statement above sums it up pretty well. 

[lasher]

reckon it's personal preference. 90% of my barrels are ARP melonite treated. i clean for copper until it's broken in and the patches on the first pass show no copper, i know over time it will come back tho. 2 - 3 patches with CLP, couple of dry patches, a patch with denatured alcahol to remove the CLP, Eliminator copper remover until no more blue on the patch, another alcahol patch. heavy CLP patch the a bore mop...ok, i'm anal about this LOL  but it's what i do and it keeps me busy and out of trouble