AR10 "Battery Assist Device"?????

[RayGun19]

I'm wondering if there is more out there than the Phase 5 extended bolt release that works like the Magpul B.A.D.????

The Phase 5 V.1 looks like it won't work with Armalite AR10, and the V.2 looks pretty bulky.  Is it just my imagination, or is it fine in the trigger guard?

Are there any other companies that have one???

[98Z5V]

No other companies that I know of - haven't seen anything else out there as of right now...  <dontknow>

[RayGun19]

Yeah.  I didn't find anything.  And with all the (7.62AR) companies all over the place, I'm not surprised.  I might buy a Magpul BAD and see if I can come up with a way to make it work on an AR10 bolt catch.  I was thinking of silver soldering the two together, and then having them re-parkerized.  I'll have to see if it will even fit.  I'm pretty sure the relationship between the trigger guard and the bolt catch is the same (or close to it) between the AR10 and the M4.

[Jgun]

Raygun,

The Magpul BAD is made of aluminum and the bolt release is cast steel so your not going to be able to solder or weld them. You might be able to epoxy them together. I have tried the BAD lever on a couple of .308 AR's and find that the problem often is that the part of the BAD that the bolt release pad fits into is often too large and prevents the bolt catch from operating because of interference with the upper. With a couple of exceptions I've been able to modify the BAD levers to work. I have the same problem with my Kaiser KR7 .308 receiver. he BAD will interfere with the upper enough that it's not an option for me. I picked up one of the Phase 5 EBRV 1 clamp on bolt release levers, and although I can't use it as a clamp on because of the back clamp part interfering with the upper, since it is made of steel I can grind it as needed and weld it to the standard bolt catch. If you can TIG weld, or know someone that can, that might be you best option. When I get around to doing mine I'll post a couple of pictures of it.  This doesn't have anything to do with the .308 AR's but might also be useful to someone so  I would mention that, on my most recent AR 15 type build, I used an L 15 lower from Lancer systems, The BAD would not work because the lever contacted the receiver on the bottom edge and there was not enough material on the BAD to relieve it for clearance. I picked up one of the levers from Model 1 sales (which is made of steel) and modified it as pictured. I'm sure it will function , I just need to refinish it.

[RayGun19]

Ahh. Didn't know the BAD was aluminum.  I hadn't researched that far.  I had thought about drilling and tapping the bolt catch, then drill and counter sink the BAD.  With that idea, I figure the worst I can do is waste $30 on the BAD.

[Jgun]

That might work for you, the only problem I can think of with that plan is that, since the lever part of the BAD is the part that goes behing your stock bolt catch pad, the front cover of the BAD usually isn't the problem, but if you buy one and test fit it behind the bolt catch and it makes it you should be good to go. One of the nice things about fitting these to the .308's vs the AR-15's is that the .308's(at least all of mine) have a threaded pin holding the bolt catch in place, so it's easy to take the catch on and off while fitting. With the roll pin of the AR-15's I made up a pin so that I could do the same on new builds, but when trying to fit one to a gun that already has the catch secured with the roll pin, you either have to drive the pin out or work around the catch while it' s in place (a PITA)

[RayGun19]

I meant I'd not use the backing plate on the BAD, and screw it directly to the bolt catch face.  The AR10 has a recess for the bolt catch in the upper, so the BAD backing plate will never work.

[98Z5V]

The AR10 has a recess for the bolt catch in the upper, so the BAD backing plate will never work.

That's the problem with most of them.  I think the Phase 5 will work around that, due to how it's made, but I'n not sure...  You need the clearance to run it, and most of the time, that's on the upper, not the lower.

Forged 15s don't have that problem:

Billet ones, you have to be careful on:

[Jgun]

I took another look at one of the BAD levers on one of my guns, and I stand corrected, I see that I had  confused and incorrectly remembered the lever as being attached to the back peice of the BAD and not the front. What your suggesting may work, if possible I might try to get a small nut on the back if there's enough room. Good luck.

[SpinDoctor]

I took put my Palmetto State Armory PA10 Gen3 today, bench fired to 200 yds. All of my AR15s have the Magpul BAD device and I love them. Trying to look back the BCG was a pain, I have a scope so I charge with my left hand. Kinda hard to reach the bolt release. So in trying to purchase another BAD device I read all of the info about the incompatibilities.

So I took a BAD device off one of my AR15s and checked fit and what it may take. Here's what I did. Basically as many have stated its clearance issues on the upper. But also the stock BAD curves forwards and interferes with the mag well.

The Fix

1. Bend the BAD device arm straight, thats all you will need. 

2. Grind the back side to match the contour of the upper receiver. I took a bit more than I needed as the pics illustrate so take only what you need. Go slow.

Ensure as you cycle the charge handle that at no time does the bolt release touch the bolt. Mine clears easily, I'd estimate there is at least .010" gap between the bolt and bolt release during cycling. 

That did it for me. The best part is the grinding is hidden so it doesn't look hacked. 

For $28 if you ruin it its only $28 so good luck. Not sure how to attach photos. Sorry

[SpinDoctor]

[unforgiven]

Good tech tip should anyone need it. There is always a solution to a problem.🍻🍻

[98Z5V]

Fine work, man - well done!  

[dpete]

I have to do something similar to one that I have for my 300 BLK pistol.

[dpete]

Thanks for the tip and especially the pictures.  They made it much easier to visualize what was done.  I worked on mine this afternoon and took things slow with a hand file.  Removing a little at a time from the back side of the back piece I eventually got it to slide between the bolt release lever and the upper with clearance.  All works perfectly now.

Picture taken from the inside view of the filed off BAD lever installed.  Bright aluminum showing where the filing took place, and looking seriously hacked from this angle.

 

After a drop or two of Testor's flat black model paint applied with a Q-tip.

 

As @SpinDoctor showed, there is no sign that any kitchen table gunsmithing ever went on when seen from the outside once the upper and lower are assembled.

 

[sketch]

Q tip tip! 👌