ADD Weight to LR-308 stock

[Hubert Hoffman]

I went with a Luth-AR stock on my brand new build.

Now I finding I like the adjust-ability of the stock but not the overall weight of the firearm.  I would like to ADD five - six LB of weight to the stock without losing fit/function.

Any ideas on how to add weight to this stock would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[unforgiven]

People get Luther because it's light weight. This is one of the heaviest https://magpul.com/prs-gen3-precision-adjustable-stock.html?mp_global_color=118 or tape some 🧱 to what you have.

[BigNate]

6 hours ago, Hubert Hoffman said:

I went with a Luth-AR stock on my brand new build.

Now I finding I like the adjust-ability of the stock but not the overall weight of the firearm.  I would like to ADD five - six LB of weight to the stock without losing fit/function.

Any ideas on how to add weight to this stock would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

5-6 lbs is a LOT of weight...  If you want to go "a bit heavier" you might get a MagPul PRS Gen 3 stock - it weighs nearly a pound more than the Luth MBA-1. 

 

If I let my imagination run wild I land on a cheap solution (1) and an expensive solution (2) ...

1) I imagine that you might be able to add lead tape (like golfers use) to portions of the stock - but I'd want to ensure that I had it well covered / sealed before putting my hands (and face) all over it... If you die of lead poisoning, I never said this.

2) Have a custom piece of tungsten or something similar machined to fit between the pad on the stock and it's mount.  Guessing that this would cost a pretty penny - but it would probably be safer than the alternative.

Lastly - If you just want to add weight - and it does not have to be on the stock - I found some Gisselle lead weights for placement in / on a quad rail that might allow addition of weight elsewhere.  

 

Just my 2 cents... 

[DNP]

You’ve got my curiosity going here. Either you’re trolling, or there should be an interesting discussion following this question:

 

Why?

[unforgiven]

Trap door A2 fill to your hearts content

[Hubert Hoffman]

15 minutes ago, DNP said:

You’ve got my curiosity going here. Either you’re trolling, or there should be an interesting discussion following this question:

 

Why?

Apparently because I'm an idiot. 
The build I have weighs about 14 LB.  The M-11 is supposed to remove 60%+ of felt recoil but I still get "jump" even when I hold the hand guard.
Others at the range just squeeze the trigger and their firearm remains still.  So I thought, easiest/cheapest thing add weight.
Other alternatives (new stock, different barrel, different hand guard, different muzzle break) all have additional cost and my budget is about tapped out.

 

Edited August 18, 2021 by Hubert Hoffman

[BigNate]

15 minutes ago, Hubert Hoffman said:

Apparently because I'm an idiot. 
The build I have weighs about 14 LB.  The M-11 is supposed to remove 60%+ of felt recoil but I still get "jump" even when I hold the hand guard.
Others at the range just squeeze the trigger and their firearm remains still.  So I thought, easiest/cheapest thing add weight.
Other alternatives (new stock, different barrel, different hand guard, different muzzle break) all have additional cost and my budget is about tapped out.

 

Pretty sure that no one is calling you an idiot.  I know that I'm not.   If the question is around how to manage recoil and muzzle rise on your rifle I'd suggest laying out some details as to how you are shooting, what you are shooting, and the specifics of the problem that you are trying to solve.   Shooting from a bench or off-hand?  Factory 147 grain NATO stuff or super hot / heavy hand loads?   Lots of folks here will help you - but they'll want details... 

[BigNate]

I can't tell from the pictures that you sent - but is there any chance that your M-11 is installed 180 degrees out of spec (with the "top" installed down)?   If the closed face is up - and the holes that should face up are facing down -  I'd expect it would contribute a ton to your muzzle jumping when fired... 

 

Additionally - this thread made me do some reading on the topic and would suggest that it might be worth reading up on the difference between a muzzle break and a "compensator."   

I found this one interesting (although littered with ads).

https://www.primaryarms.com/blog/muzzle-brake-v-flash-hider-v-compensator

I had honestly never considered the difference.   

 

If you M-11 is installed / clocked correctly - you might look at a compensator... 

 

Edited August 18, 2021 by BigNate

[unforgiven]

Compensators and Breaks are loud as fuk. Can you have a suppressor? Use a good bipod that you can lean into and or Slash heavy buffer kit. Just my 2 mags

[unforgiven]

Dial yourself in with a good sling 

[DNP]

Definitely not calling you an idiot, but the biggest complaint is what these rifles weigh…and you’re talking about adding 5-6lbs. That makes the gun around 20lbs and if that’s what you’re after, it’s your gun and you can do what you want. It’s just against the flow of normal thinking. They “why” really wants to be discussed on this though, because you’re looking for ideas on a solution you came to, but there may be better solutions to the “why”.  Some details about how you’re shooting, what you’re shooting and what you’re looking for from the gun will help get you there. If adding a bunch of weight is the final answer, you probably want to start with the Magpul and add weight to that. 

[DNP]

What’s the parts list in this build?  I try to get a look at the pic, but with it changing every second I give up pretty fast.  

[Lonewolf McQuade]

He needs @98Z5V's blonde midget. That'll provide the necessary weight/down force to keep the "barrel" where it belongs

[Hubert Hoffman]

1 hour ago, DNP said:

What’s the parts list in this build?  I try to get a look at the pic, but with it changing every second I give up pretty fast.  

UPPERS

-------------------------------------------------

Live Free Armory Receiver(s)

DPMS GEN-1 Compatible (2 upper, 1 lower)

15" hand guards

 

BCG

6.5CM JP-Enterprises low mass carrier

.308 Fulton Armory

Criterion 22" heavy barrels. (rifle length gas)

6.5CM stainless,

.308 nitride

Precision Armament M11 Severe Duty Muzzle Break(s)

LR308 DPMS Charging Handle

American Defense Forward Assist

Guntec USA AR-10/LR-308 Ejection Port Dust Cover Assembly

SLR Rifleworks Sentry 8 adjustable gas block

Faxon Firearms AR Rifle Length Gas Tube

Harris S-BRM Bipod 6-9

 

LOWER

-------------------------------------------------

CMMG AR-10 / LR-308 Lower Parts Kit

Luth-AR 308 Buffer Tube & MBA-1 Stock Assembly

LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger

Anarchy Outdoors Penguin Grip

 

OPTICS

-------------------------------------------------

Warne 20-MOA 1-Piece Gen-2 scope mount

Vortex Viper HS Long Range 6-24X50 (FFP)

Holland's Signature Series Anti-Cant Device

 

[Hubert Hoffman]

The goal is a 1,000 yard gun.  Currently using:

Sellier & Bellot 6.5CM FMJ-BT

140grs 9.1g

[DNP]

I had a feeling you were running a low mass carrier and think you’ll find it may be part of your recoil issue. What’s the weight on that buffer?  

[DNP]

Those buffers are race gun. How do the ejected cases look?  Is it throwing them pretty far from the gun?  Just asking questions that might help the guys with the real brains here give you some better feedback. 

[Hubert Hoffman]

26 minutes ago, DNP said:

Those buffers are race gun. How do the ejected cases look?  Is it throwing them pretty far from the gun?  Just asking questions that might help the guys with the real brains here give you some better feedback. 

According to the web site the buffer is 5.3oz.  Brass lands at about the 5:00 position 6ft away.

[98Z5V]

First, the rotating pics are a huge pain in the ass. Might be cool to upload, but I don't have enough time to look at what you're using before it moves on to the next one...

Take a pic of the brake, installed.  Need to see the top and bottom.

Get rid of the Race Gun BCG - put it in something else, or sell it while parts are bringing top dollar.  Think "Gun Broker" and those type sites.  Use a standard BCG, that's full weight. Should be around 18 oz.  Race Gun parts belong in Race Guns, where you're earning sponsorship money from winning competitions, whilst kicking everyone's ass and coming in Top 3 all the time...

Now, for the next one...  

7 hours ago, unforgiven said:

Trap door A2 fill to your hearts content

This, right here.

4 hours ago, DNP said:

They “why” really wants to be discussed on this though, because you’re looking for ideas on a solution you came to, but there may be better solutions to the “why”.  Some details about how you’re shooting, what you’re shooting and what you’re looking for from the gun will help get you there. If adding a bunch of weight is the final answer, you probably want to start with the Magpul and add weight to that. 

I'm using an A2 stock on the Mk12 Mod 1.  I'm using that gun for the matches recently.   After firing from that "Wobble Platform" last month (The Sex Swing!), I took the A2 standard flash hider off, and put on the VG6 Gamma 2-port brake, and the CAGE device.  It shoots better now, and I swing less on the swing @JBMatt and DirtBike Tommy built.  That was good.  More stable on the platform, and good enough to crank off 5 at the 450 with all hits, damn near as fast as I could get them going.

However... For those matches, and since I have an A2, I'm adding one of these things, just for the matches...

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/buttstock-weight.html

Only reason for it - reduce recoil, through weight.  This is big on the Service RIfles for Camp Perry - you'd be behind, if you didn't have one, before you ever pulled the trigger.   Here's the Brownells description for the over-expensive one that they sell:

"Balances The Rifle For Consistent Accuracy

Pre-formed lead ingot increases the rear weight; balances out muzzle-heavy, match AR-15's for consistent, shot-to-shot accuracy. Denser than loose, lead shot; conveniently drops into the A-2 buttstock and is retained by the trap door. Can be cut, drilled or trimmed to achieve required balance."

So that's the why for it. 

 

Now, to the OP - you don't need all that fancy shiit, just to shoot 1k yards.  The caliber is already FULLY capable, through an average AR.  .308 Win will do 1k with ease, through a decent gun. 6.5C can do that very easily with 140gr projectiles.  That should go around 1400 yards before going transonic. You oughta be around 8.5~9.0 mils of elevation for 1k yards, and that load.

So, muzzle brake installation, then standard-weight BCG.  Then see where you are.  If it's really jumping with that brake on there (that's a great brake), then make sure it's not upside down like @BigNate said.  Also, make sure your gas tube ends directly in the center of the cam pin cutout in the upper receiver.  Double-check that. 

Edited August 19, 2021 by 98Z5V