washguy Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 Hi Guys I probably have answered my own question but here goes. when we went to screw on the PRI muzzle brake it didnt want to freely turn . we had moly grease and a lil oil on the muzzle threads and a lil inside the comp....I think its the fact that they have anodized both the pri and the barrel that this causes the interference? I know we didnt have it cross threaded,but geez at one point it even squeeked.....we backed it out, then went forward a number of times...I just dont remember ever having this happened on my other two builds? Did we screw the pooch? <dontknow> Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKSHEEP Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 Inquiring minds want to know? <munch> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imschur Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 your saying both threads are anodized? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 your saying both threads are anodized?Yes they were Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imschur Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 yeah Ive seen them tight, almost crunchy like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoFail Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 why would barrel threads be anodized <dontknow> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imschur Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 why would barrel threads be anodized <dontknow> It's not anodizing it's whatever coating/finish the manufacturer used on the barrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 It's not anodizing it's whatever coating/finish the manufacturer used on the barrelOopsies....Yep thats what I meant ;) Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikedaddyH Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Tight oh yeah !Been there done that with PRI, take your time ,lube it ...on...off...repeat a couple,three times. Take a couple asprin and call me in the morning <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 They are std SAE 5/8 threads (if 308 ), if you think they are tight , just dress them up with a die & tap.My PRI went on no problem ,but on bare S/S bbl. threads .The PRI brakes are very well done ,It may well be your bbl. threads that need cleaning up .Are you using a crush washer or going the shim route for the brake ? If shimming , You can use blue loc-tite on the threads to keep the brake tight. I used a 0.002 shim to line my custom made one up , but it looks like its part of the barrel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 Whew ! Thanks guys...you know ive got the same exact combo on two other weapons and dont remember the pri having this problemo....we backed it on/off with moly and lube ,but geez I know its not cross threaded...you could see the threads had turned a different color telling me the coating was being taken off the barrel.. and oh so tight! We used the timing shims...yes they are a pain! :) Wash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imschur Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 AAC offers precision shims kits for aligning and timing muzzle devices without the use of crushwashers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtmc Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 AAC offers precision shims kits for aligning and timing muzzle devices without the use of crushwashers.Nice idea, went to order some, but they are rigidly attached to UPS ground shipping, so a 8$ pack of washers that could go in a 1st class envelope requires $20 Ground shipping to HI? I hate these outfits that will not give you alternatives for shipping method and end up charging more for shipping than the damn parts cost........./Rant off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starfury Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 Be extremely careful if it is stainless steel (barrel & comp). Stainless isn’t forgiving like steel, when you start to bind it (i.e. makes noise’s or you feel it crunching) –it is starting to gall and if you go much further it will completely lock up and you are out of luck. Galling is the local roughing of the surface/forming of protrusion between the sliding surfaces and stainless steel is very bad for it. Survivalshop is correct – use a tap/die to clean up the threads if necessary (you can also use a wire brush on a dremel at low to moderate speed to clean them up if loose material is present). Then use just a touch of high temperature anti-seize to keep it from galling and make it easier to spin on/off. High temperatures combined with tight threads on stainless steel is a bad thing without a little anti-seize (we have had to cut off numerous stainless bolts of all sizes at work when folks forget to put a little moly based anti-seize on them). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtmc Posted March 11, 2012 Report Share Posted March 11, 2012 I vote for Dremel and wire brush. Carefully to not nick up the rest of the receiver. Lots of duct tape to protect stuff.I shudder to think what a tap/die in the thread size of the receiver would cost............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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