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Help with ejector swipes - LAR-8


mikear

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I've done some searching and have read of multiple causes of ejector swipes.  I get them with all types of ammo, from factory Wal-Mart Fed/Winchester 150 & 180 grainers to my reloads.  There are often times burrs left behind from the swipe that require trimming.

I have taken the ejector out and cannot "feel" any burrs or rough edges around the ejector hole in the bolt face.  I don't think it is too hot of handloads as I get swipes on the lightest of loads (i.e. 41-42 gn Varget w/ Hornady 168 gn BTHP).  Also, the rifle has approximately 750-800 rounds down the tube.

D893F428-0D2A-48C9-B00F-EB8B42E9E549-11817-00000DB06379B338.jpg

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Its hard to tell from the pics but some of your rims looked raised from the extractor which is an sign of early extraction from over gassing which can also cause the ejector swipes. When I put an adjustable gas block on my rifle all these problems went away for me.

You're correct, there are raised rims on most of the brass.  I can put it in the Wilson trimmer, put the case head towards the cutter, and it will only trim the area of the head directly above (with case head pointing up) the extractor mark.

The gun has an adjustable gas block, but I currently have it opened fully.

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Well there you go a no cost repair I like those  ;). Well almost going to cost a little ammo to tune it. If its the set screw type turn in a 1/4 turn then load 1 round in a magazine and shoot. Then do it again (1/4 turn 1 shot) until your bolt no longer locks back. Then open back up a 1/4 turn and test to see if your bolt locks back if it does your done and check your brass to if the damage has quit.

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Well there you go a no cost repair I like those  ;). Well almost going to cost a little ammo to tune it. If its the set screw type turn in a 1/4 turn then load 1 round in a magazine and shoot. Then do it again (1/4 turn 1 shot) until your bolt no longer locks back. Then open back up a 1/4 turn and test to see if your bolt locks back if it does your done and check your brass to if the damage has quit.

I'll do that next time I get to the range.  I'll report back with the results.  Thanks to everyone thus far for the assistance.

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Brass looks fine to me also . Ya have to remember , brass was never intended to be reused ,so what happens to it upon firing is not an issue , except to us hand loaders, that is .

I'm not a fan of adj. gas blocks in most cases , I kinda like the over gassing ( if that's what you want to call it), makes sure the action functions with a wide range of ammo's. Be it dirty of lack or lubricant from repeated firing .

With Bench guns , it don't matter much , adj. the gas may help groups or make them worse , you just have to experiment.

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Brass looks fine to me also . Ya have to remember , brass was never intended to be reused ,so what happens to it upon firing is not an issue , except to us hand loaders, that is .

I'm not a fan of adj. gas blocks in most cases , I kinda like the over gassing ( if that's what you want to call it), makes sure the action functions with a wide range of ammo's. Be it dirty of lack or lubricant from repeated firing .

With Bench guns , it don't matter much , adj. the gas may help groups or make them worse , you just have to experiment.

It's far from a bench gun.  The only reason I haven't adjusted the block is exactly as you stated.  I mainly shoot handloads, but I'll try to eliminate the swipes then shoot a mix of ammo to ensure the swipes clear up.

Also, is it typical that you get burrs on the case head from swiping?  How do you other handloaders remedy this problem before reloading brass again.

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Relatively speaking, brass is a pretty soft metal. I've realoaded for 30 years and loaded stuff from 380 ACP to 30.06. I've seen burrs on the rims of pretty much every caliber of brass that I've reloaded and have never worried about it. I can't recall ever having a malfunction because of a minor burr. Now that's not to say I just ignore the bent rims and rims with chunks pulled out of them by the extractors, those go in the trash.

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^^^  <laughs> <lmao>  Damn Brass Thieves...  ;D

Honestly, it's a new gas gun.  There's nothing wrong with that brass, the ejector swipes, or maybe a raised lip on the rim.  The only thing that raised lip on the rim will tell you is that your extractor is working, and you might have a rough chamber - on a new barrel.  It'll work in, or it won't.  If it doesn't, after a couple hundred rounds, then the chamber needs a slight polish in it.  You're gonna have ejector swipes on semi-auto gas guns.  That's just how it is - that ejector will put a mark on your brass.    <thumbsup>

Don't try to diagnose something that's not there - shoot it in, and see what's going on afterwards, down the road. 

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If any of my brass has real noticeable burr's or extractor  claw marks , a good small triangle file will make short work of them .

I have had some that will be stiff going into the shell holder ( & some that won't go into them at all ), but the file takes care of them .

If they are really screwed up , well , my motto is , when in doubt , throw them out .

On controlling what happens to brass , well depends on the brass , some manufacturers will deform less than others . I think ,if you are trying to get max performance from a load , it can't be avoided.

Every one talks about how Remington brass is so soft, yet I still get my best groups from it , but all rifles are different . What works for one may or may not work for another.

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If any of my brass has real noticeable burr's or extractor  claw marks , a good small triangle file will make short work of them .

I have had some that will be stiff going into the shell holder ( & some that won't go into them at all ), but the file takes care of them .

If they are really screwed up , well , my motto is , when in doubt , throw them out .

On controlling what happens to brass , well depends on the brass , some manufacturers will deform less than others . I think ,if you are trying to get max performance from a load , it can't be avoided.

Every one talks about how Remington brass is so soft, yet I still get my best groups from it , but all rifles are different . What works for one may or may not work for another.

Sounds like it's pretty normal.  I'll adjust the gas block next time out and see where that gets me. 

One of my shooting buddies has an AR-10 and the other a CMMG MK3.  They both seem to be less damaging to the brass.  They sometimes get light ejector swipes, none with burrs, and rarely get the raised ejector marks like my rifle.

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I want to do a little experiment to see if this helps my swipes.

I've been researching ejector swipes a little more.  I found on another forum where a member was having ejector swipes on mild loads with one of three rifles, all the same caliber.

He observed that the ejector on the rifle having the swipes had a rounded edge at the ejector face where it contacts the case head.  The other two rifles had flat ejector faces and did not cause ejector swipes unless he was loading hot.

My LAR-8 ejector face happens rounded.  I would like to try another ejector to see if it changes things at all.

Would it be possible for someone with an LR308/AR10 rifle, and/or variation thereof, to check your ejector face for a rounded or flat edge?  Also, I took dimensions from my ejector to compare if someone out there is bored  :o.

Please see photos of my dimensions below.

0EA362FB-AB3F-431B-B935-14B6335DAD9B-14483-000010F4F9DE9A03.jpg

03CA81FE-D7D2-4BCC-ADCC-56DE14B8514C-14483-000010F4F2E97C1F.jpg

4E6617A0-2C94-412D-B3EA-ECFE4FD389C0-14483-000010F4E73D1130.jpg

7F8963B7-DD44-410B-8E32-D02876D41A1A-14483-000010F4DD1A857B.jpg

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I had a hell of a time just to depress the damn thing.With my screwed up hands I would catch hell getting it together.Sorry brother.Look at previous RRA threads think one of the other members went thru the same thing. <dontknow>

If you're thinking of Hoot, I read his post about lapping the bolt face.  I want to K.I.S.S. to begin with then begin modifications later, if necessary.

BTW, I pulled the bolt, put a spent case in the extractor.  Then, I put them in a bar clamp that has rubber jaws to compress the ejector.  Since I don't have a roll pin punch that small, I took a trim nail and used the Dremel to make it the size I wanted with a rounded tip to center on the roll pin.  I tapped the roll pin out with a hammer.  Assembled it in the reverse order.  Seemed to work well actually.

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