illusion Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Not really understanding why you had to remove something just to run a trigger. Do you have more information/explanation on what had to come out, and why? I discovered this question after I said I would refrain from chatter, but I guess it's aimed at me so I will respond. The apparatus on the top of the 24-series triggers http://www.hiperfire.com/hipertouch243g.html is interrupted by the ambi-bolt release lever (on a S&W MP-10 ..for sure) that is not present on non-ambi lower receivers. If the release lever is removed it clears and operates flawlessly. Without, it does not fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ya' all got me confused <dontknow> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Oh , the Ambi. safety Bolt release is interfering with the operation of the FCG . & you made a "Dummy " lever ( Plug ) , Ok <thumbsup> At least thats what I get out of your statement . <dontknow> Edited February 17, 2015 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Interesting that the safety had an issue. I recently had the same issue with my Stag LPK on my AR15. I ended up purchasing a Noveske 60 degree Ambi-Safety so that my Geissele HSNM DMR trigger would work. I moved this trigger from my LR308 to my Precision build AR15. I now have the Geissele SD-E in my LR308 instead, I like it much better for the 308 it just feels right, and the DMR feels perfect for the .223. I guess it's just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 I'm pretty sure he's talking about the ambi bolt catch/bolt release - which makes sense. I see why it would have to come out, now. Bolt release/bolt catch on the right side of the receiver: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusion Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 Oh , the Ambi. safety is interfering with the operation of the FCG . & you made a "Dummy " lever ( Plug ) , Ok <thumbsup> At least thats what I get out of your statement . <dontknow> ..Thought that was what I said <dontknow> Perhaps a picture: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 (edited) Yes , that is what I meant to say . Ambi Bolt release is shown in your photo & was was the dummy latch you made . My bad for not proof checking my post . I originally thought you were talking about something on the trigger system its self , but looking at your photo it was clear it was the Bolt release . Ambi. Bolt release lever probably works with out a problem with the FCG it was designed around . Edited February 17, 2015 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted February 17, 2015 Report Share Posted February 17, 2015 (just loses the 'lefty-lever) I think this is what threw everybody off, when you said 'lever' it made me think you were talking about the safety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 So, what was the interference? What, on that bolt release hit what, on that trigger? Why was there a problem with the fitting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DNP Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 (edited) His post said it's the apparatus on top of the hyper 24 was interfered with by the ambi doohicky. Good to know. If you like your ambi bolt catch...your trigger options might be limited. Edited February 18, 2015 by DNP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 So, this rifle had to come with a standard mil-spec looking trigger in it. So, any Geissele would work. So, why mess with something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 18, 2015 Report Share Posted February 18, 2015 So, this rifle had to come with a standard mil-spec looking trigger in it. So, any Geissele would work. So, why mess with something else? <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusion Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Was not trying to 'sell' anything or even convince anyone to purchase a Hyperfire. The 24-3G I have is on the par with a Jewell target trigger on a M-700 so it works for me. Consider it another arrow in your quiver should someone ask plusses and minuses on a 24-G3 you can at least answer. I have never touched a Geissele so cannot make a personal comment.. From what I hear they are great triggers, but at least in my mind, I cannot see how they could be better for me than the one I have. Difficulty of installation in some applications accepted. Thank You for bearing with me ::) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Very good info , & as you put it , "another Arrow in your Quiver ". Wonder if or how that trigger would work in other Ambi-Bolt releases . I have a POF , but it works differently then that S&W seems to. I assume you looked at altering the Ambi ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 At this point, I'm just interested in seeing where the contact was, what hit what, and why the trigger didn't work. I'd much rather see a pic of the problem, than try to envision it through written words. I'd also much rather use a trigger that didn't decrease a capability that is built into the base rifle. So, in short, I'd run a compatible trigger, something like a Geissele, rather than an incompatible trigger, such as the HF. Maybe one of the Geissele triggers wouldn't work either - I just have a hard time understanding where this interference was, and how a standard trigger worked if something else won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Looks like the linking rod or lever to link the left side to the right side , must interfere with this trigger system . I'll get some Photo's of how its set up on my POF Lower Receiver, I think it is set up differently . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusion Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Very good info , & as you put it , "another Arrow in your Quiver ". Wonder if or how that trigger would work in other Ambi-Bolt releases . I have a POF , but it works differently then that S&W seems to. I assume you looked at altering the Ambi ? DUNNO! That is a moot point with me the plug was my MP-10 'fix'. Anything left-handed (to Me) is akin to a teat on a boar ... I am a right-right handed person ::) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusion Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 Looks like the linking rod or lever to link the left side to the right side , must interfere with this trigger system . I'll get some Photo's of how its set up on my POF Lower Receiver, I think it is set up differently . Sorry SURVIVALSHOP.. Saw this post AFTER I replied. Yes, it IS and it DOES exactly that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusion Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 At this point, I'm just interested in seeing where the contact was, what hit what, and why the trigger didn't work. I'd much rather see a pic of the problem, than try to envision it through written words. I'd also much rather use a trigger that didn't decrease a capability that is built into the base rifle. So, in short, I'd run a compatible trigger, something like a Geissele, rather than an incompatible trigger, such as the HF. Maybe one of the Geissele triggers wouldn't work either - I just have a hard time understanding where this interference was, and how a standard trigger worked if something else won't. With all due respect, Sir.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 19, 2015 Report Share Posted February 19, 2015 DUNNO! That is a moot point with me the plug was my MP-10 'fix'. Anything left-handed (to Me) is akin to a teat on a boar ... I am a right-right handed person ::) My POF is a Carbine I built for my Lefty wife ,but she shoots right handed , so I might have wasted my time . <lmao> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 With all due respect, Sir.. Haha! That's a good one - I have 3 ambi lowers, and not one of them has anything coming into the fire control pocket that would interfere with a trigger assembly - not one. I don't have a lower that's got the S&W M&P10 setup on it, on the right side. In fact, very few people here have the M&P10. YOU could probably help the rest of the community out a little bit, instead of being all snide about it, and show what the interference is... It's up to you to figure out if you can do that, or if pride will get in your way... <dontknow> Your last post should remove all doubt as to why I stated what you quoted, in the first place... You answered your own question... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusion Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Haha! That's a good one - I have 3 ambi lowers, and not one of them has anything coming into the fire control pocket that would interfere with a trigger assembly - not one. I don't have a lower that's got the S&W M&P10 setup on it, on the right side. In fact, very few people here have the M&P10. YOU could probably help the rest of the community out a little bit, instead of being all snide about it, and show what the interference is... It's up to you to figure out if you can do that, or if pride will get in your way... <dontknow> Your last post should remove all doubt as to why I stated what you quoted, in the first place... You answered your own question... I promised only one shot across your bow. Help me keep that promise and STAY OUT OF MY FACE... You are only feeding a childish ego. Thank You Kindly <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusion Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 (edited) This information is NOT at the behest of my would-be Antagonist, it is for those who truly question anything I have said about the HYPERFIRE 24-3G trigger in the S&W MP-10. That said, I seriously doubt that anyone really expects me to disassemble it, re-assemble in factory configuration (to take a picture), and again assemble the components that are currently functioning perfectly? There are other comments other than mine about the fact the 24-3G will not fit into an ambi-equipped S&W MP-10. Including HYPERFIRES own site explaining ‘what it won’t fit’ http://www.hiperfire.com/resources/what-lowers-will-the-hipertouch-fcgs-not-work-in/ Also, this links to a video comparing top of the line triggers. The audio is poor but improves as it progresses. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qhkmzcjjny8#t=1093 Interestingly, they give favorable evaluations to ALL of the triggers. So rest easy, whatever you have chosen in the top of the line category is a ‘good’ trigger. No brand is being slammed! I trust this information will clear any confusion. Best to the audience, illusion <thumbsup> Edited February 20, 2015 by illusion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmackc Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 From what I see looking at the hyperfire trigger,it's mechanical configuration is more bulky and it is reasonable to see where it requires more space to operate than triggers of conventional size and configuration. Kind like putting a 6.2 litre engine into a stock 1930 Ford coupe. It can be done but requires some mild modification to the coupe, however if I sell you a 6.2 litre engine I would think you should be told that it won't fit into all cars made since 1912. That information is on the Hyperfire web site. Thanks for reminding us men that don't always read the warnings and instructions before we buy a 6.2 trigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted February 20, 2015 Report Share Posted February 20, 2015 Not only that , but we have a happy Trigger & Operator <lmao> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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