Cali_Ed Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 So at my lgs fed smk is about a buck forty a round. What does it cost you kind gentlemen to reload per round.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 (edited) Considering retail prices: SMK 175 BTHP = $.40 45gr of IMR4064 (45/7000 x $29.99) = $0.1927 - (I made this 45gr instead of 41gr to account for loss/spills/stupidity) Primer = $0.04 Brass = "free" Total per round $0.6327 If you look around and find discounted prices, the cost can go down somewhat. Edited July 18, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 Wow that's way cheaper, but I would shoot alot more haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketch Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 You arnt considering all the nessary parts to make tha actual round ..ie reloading press excetra ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Yes sir I have considered the initial cost :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tripledeuce Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Depending on the bullet. .55 - .65 cents a round. My LAR8 RR 260 Rem that I put together has NEVER had a factory round through it! I bought a large number of compounts about 4 years ago. Hate to think what it will cost to replace them. Or if the same compounts are even going to still be available! Respectfully Terry When I was in the business, I used to figgure the cost of reloads to be @ 1/2 of new ammo. Most were a little less, depending on componuts used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sisco Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Considering retail prices: SMK 175 BTHP = $.40 45gr of IMR4064 (45/7000 x $29.99) = $0.1927 - (I made this 45gr instead of 41gr to account for loss/spills/stupidity) Primer = $0.04 Brass = "free"Total per round $0.6327 If you look around and find discounted prices, the cost can go down somewhat. About right. But if you do it right and tailor the load to your rifle, they are also more accurate. FGMM cant hold a candle to my tailored reloads for my 308's because I refined the load to the individual weapons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 When you guys tailor them I'm assuming it's a trail and error of what exactly? What is. Good book to read or video to watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 About right. But if you do it right and tailor the load to your rifle, they are also more accurate. FGMM cant hold a candle to my tailored reloads for my 308's because I refined the load to the individual weapons. Yep... I save all my brass but the FGMM ones seem to work even better for reloading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sisco Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 When you guys tailor them I'm assuming it's a trail and error of what exactly? What is. Good book to read or video to watch. A little bit of trial and error. If I hear a highly recommendd combination of bullet and powder from someone I respect, I will start to work with it. That is how I got Reloader15 and the 168 gr SMK combo. A former Army sniper recommended that combo to me. And for my Standard AR10 rifle it has worked out really well. For that 42 grains seems to be the sweet spot. Then it is going up and down by tenths of a grain until your groups are as small as you can get them consistently. That takes a while, but once you lock in on your rifles preference, you have the winning recipe for that rifle. Now I am working on my carbine with 175 SMK's and RE15, which is similar to Varget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) What I've used for 308's (in no order of preference) with various 168gr/175gr/180gr projos IMR 4064 (the "standard") Varget (the other "standard") IMR 8208 XBR (works really well!!) RE15 AA 4064 (meters better than the IMR twin) CFE-223 (higher velocities!!) Stuff that is supposed to work but sucks: IMR 4320 Edited July 19, 2014 by shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) I've been reccomend a rcbs single stage press, would you guys agree. Thanks for the great info so far. You guys are the best ;) Edited July 19, 2014 by Cali_Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 (edited) Edit Edited July 19, 2014 by Cali_Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 I took a dive into the deep end and got a Hornady LNL progressive. Here's when I was deciding what to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketch Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 I have the rcbs single it's been very easy to learn on and finding new things to add is always fun make sure you have a desent amount of room dedicated for this endeavor will overtake your work bench fast!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 When you guys tailor them I'm assuming it's a trail and error of what exactly? What is. Good book to read or video to watch. I start at about 5% below the "ideal" published load (not max load) and go up a little bit at the time. Here's a good starting point if you're using the SMK bullets. load map sierra 308.pdf Also get a loading manual. Have at least one. I use the Hornady manual. On top of that, look for "good recipes" out there that match your rifle. All these are good starting points in developing and tinkering with a load. Learn the different signs that indicate different scenarios. My 308 always seems to show overpressure signs (flat or slightly cratered primer) no matter how much I back off on the powder or adjust the C.O.A.L. Most important in reloading is consistency. Do everything the same way. Ensure everything is the same, check, check, check... this gets you rounds that are predictable, and hopefully, accurate. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 My plinking load consisting of 45.5 grs. of Varget and a 147 gr. FMJBT (milsurp from Wideners at about $100 per 500) works out to about 48 cents per round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Is brass that is slightly dented at the rim of the case useless? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sisco Posted July 19, 2014 Report Share Posted July 19, 2014 Not necessairily. If it straightens out in the sizing die and has no cracks in the brass it should be okay. Stay away from brass that has dented or deformed shoulders. That is where a lot of the stress is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Ok coo, because it seems it's happening to most of my brass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Another question, can you seat the bullet to the brass to get an over length specific to your chamber? Or is that a bolt action thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Another question, can you seat the bullet to the brass to get an over length specific to your chamber? Or is that a bolt action thing? You can if you want to, but bear in mind that you're limited by the magazine so about 2.8" is max. Remember that if you adjust the overall length, the corresponding pressures will go up or down as you adjust the bullet to seat deeper or shallower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 Cali Ed - just so you know - I could give you a metric $hit-ton of information. It is my decision to not give you ANY information, based on your "folly" of your 800m target. People chose to help you through your build, through your shooting questions, etc. You must have thought that was a joke, and you made fun of us. At this time - just so you know - the joke is now on you. There are many of us that will not help you anymore. Your questions will go un-answered, and the meaninful information you wish to seek is now gone. Those that know will not respond. I wish you luck, and I hope you do well in your shooting endeavors. Pretty fucking funny, yeah?! HAHA! <lmao> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shibiwan Posted July 20, 2014 Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 <lmao> <laughs> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cali_Ed Posted July 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2014 No worries brother, thanks for the info shibiwan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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