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What does it cost you guys per round to reload a 308


Cali_Ed

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98 you're acting like if I was playing a joke all along. Every time I have received any help or advice I gave the proper thanks. I always highly appreciate the advice from you gentleman. If you are looking for an apology I'm sorry. I did not know this was a very serious forum, even though I see ball busting all the time. So I figured a joke would be ok. Like I said no worries brother I appreciate all your previous advice.

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We don't take ourselves too seriously, we just didn't see it coming after trying to help you out. What we do take seriously, is keeping the BS obvious as a comradery thing, there was no way to politely say to the new guy that the claim was BS. We got blindsided and some of us will react more negatively than others, just goes with the territory.

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Busting balls and making false claims (especially about who you are or aren't, not the case here) are the two things on this forum that will get you kicked or black balled. You let it go too long while you can see it was more than bothering guys. That's where it went to the not so funny side for some of us.

Butthurt? I'll say I am, only because my time on this forum is spent helping guys and keeping the integrity up over the barfcom and m4 nonsense where mall ninjas and dickhead moderators abound. You won't get ridiculed for being a newb here, but we also don't like our time and efforts thrown into our faces.

I'm ending this by saying you can bust guys balls here on many things, but:

1. Family is off limits, completely

2. We don't lie about ourselves or what we did. Impersonate and the ban hammer is coming out.

3. Enjoy yourself, but realize, our time is precious to us. If we spend it helping out, know that we care.

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My plinking load consisting of 45.5 grs. of Varget and a 147 gr. FMJBT (milsurp from Wideners at about $100 per 500) works out to about 48 cents per round.

And I was using 42gr IMR 4895, with 147gr FMJBT Win., and 150gr FMJBT Hornady, but am currently backing off that because of cratered primers. Go figure.

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I start at about 5% below the "ideal" published load (not max load) and go up a little bit at the time.

 

Here's a good starting point if you're using the SMK bullets.

 
 
Also get a loading manual. Have at least one. I use the Hornady manual. On top of that, look for "good recipes" out there that match your rifle. All these are good starting points in developing and tinkering with a load.

 

Learn the different signs that indicate different scenarios. My 308 always seems to show overpressure signs (flat or slightly cratered primer) no matter how much I back off on the powder or adjust the C.O.A.L. 

 

Most important in reloading is consistency. Do everything the same way. Ensure everything is the same, check, check, check... this gets you rounds that are predictable, and hopefully, accurate. :D

Thanks for posting that Sierra info. I've shot that 110gr HP out of a 300 Savage, and got similar groups. That 110gr HP is accurate, and fun.

 

I think I've got that Sierra 165gr HPBT Game King dialed in for my rifle @ 39gr of 4895 IMR, CCI #34 primers. At 41gr of 4895 IMR, I was getting 3 out of 5 rds with cratered primers. The groups also closed up when I dropped the charge. And I think I'm getting that whole firing between heart beats down. See attached pic, was shooting off of sand bags. And that is the best group I've shot since I had that 300 Savage :) . I never should have sold that rifle :(!!

post-10964-0-67105700-1406427203_thumb.j

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Thx, but a lot of credit has to go the rifle, an lr-308, 20" free floated barrel. It's shooting much, much better than my deer rifle.

An AR is far less forgiving platform than a bolt or lever gun, you have to have ALL your fundamentals in place to get those results. Good shooting brother!

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Thanks for posting that Sierra info. I've shot that 110gr HP out of a 300 Savage, and got similar groups. That 110gr HP is accurate, and fun.

 

I think I've got that Sierra 165gr HPBT Game King dialed in for my rifle @ 39gr of 4895 IMR, CCI #34 primers. At 41gr of 4895 IMR, I was getting 3 out of 5 rds with cratered primers. The groups also closed up when I dropped the charge. And I think I'm getting that whole firing between heart beats down. See attached pic, was shooting off of sand bags. And that is the best group I've shot since I had that 300 Savage :) . I never should have sold that rifle :(!!

Correction ---  It was at 40gr of 4895 IMR (not 41gr), I was getting 3 out of 5 rds with cratered primers, using CCI #34 primers, my COL was 2.780 with the Sierra 165gr HPBT Game King.

 

Also while reading NoFail's range test thread, seating depth and pressures came up.

 

So I thought I should come back and mention, my COL was 2.780, using Sierra 165gr HPBT Game King. For me groups start to open up as I go past that lenght.

 

Have not chronographed this load, but I'm thinking about 2450fps

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Ran the numbers on my 300BLK 150gr loadings, at current prices.  I figured CCI #400 primers at $34 per box of 1,000, one pound of H110 powder at $35, and the Hornady 150gr FMJ BT projectiles at $25.99 per box of 100 - those are the prices I paid last for this stuff.  So...

 

25.9 cents each for Hornady 150gr FMJ BT with cannelure.
3.4 cents each for CCI #400 primer.
8.0 cents each for 16.1 grains of H110 powder.

Converted LC 5.56 NATO brass is free, but time is money - converting it takes several steps.

 

Each BLK round costs me 37.3 cents to make, the way I'm loading them.  Beats the $hit out of paying for 20-round boxes of loaded ammo, that's for sure, but then again, time is money...

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Time is not money, if your doing something you like, for yourself.   And, a whole lot better than the boob tube!  Unless they had a whole lot more boob on them!LOL!

 

    It would be different if you were trying to re-load for profit.

    Just my two cents.

    Respectfully

    Terry

Edited by Tripledeuce
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^^^  True.  I love reloading, but I sure don't think I'd enjoy doing it as a profit-making venture.  I have a guy at work with a couple hundred cases, and he wants me to load them up for him - because he's too cheap to buy loaded ammo.  He wants to pay whatever the components cost.  I told him to gather his own components with his own money, come on over, and I'll show him the steps necessary - then he can see what it's all about, pick up his own setup and start reloading. 

 

I think the point I was trying to get across with the "time is money: is:  it does take some time to convert cases to 300BLK, so people will have to factor that in.  You can't just drop 37 cents per round and load 'em up in a rapid manner.  You do have to invest the time, to make them at that price.

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Where do you guys purchase your brass and what kind?

 

I buy them off a metal salvage place in town. I sell them scrap aluminum and buy the brass at $3/lb. Only problem is the brass is mixed in with others so I have to pick through them for what I want.... that's picking through all  7+tons of it.

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