So, I'm building a 1911...

Microgunner · October 5, 2014

It'll make a great test bed mule, and who knows, along the way it may turn into the best shooter you've ever owned.

392heminut · October 5, 2014

I forgot to mention, I have a jig to grind down the tangs on the back of the frame to accomodate a beavertail safety, so I will be doing that later on too.

Can you post a pic of the jig? There are two different contours of beavertails, the Wilson and the Ed Brown. I can tell which jig you have if you can post a pic.

planeflyer21 · October 5, 2014

Can you post a pic of the jig? There are two different contours of beavertails, the Wilson and the Ed Brown. I can tell which jig you have if you can post a pic.

Smith & Alexander also make jigs in the Ed Brown style, in two different sizes. I have a .220" jig for the S&A grip safety I installed on the Springfield 1911. S&A were the only people making a grip safety without that stupid "extension pad" on it.

Madhouse · October 5, 2014

I have the wilson combat jig.

98Z5V · October 5, 2014

Todd, it doesn't matter one single bit what that 1911 looks like - YOU BUILT YOUR OWN 1911!!!!!!!!!! :hail: :hethan:

Madhouse · October 5, 2014

Thanks Tom! I gotta say, I am bragging it to every gun guy I know.

My first range trip with it is going to be a proud moment!

survivalshop · October 5, 2014

That hammer looks like its an extended hammer & may be why it hit the grip safety . A STD Combat Commander Hammer would have worked with that STD 1911 Grip safety Just get a Beaver Gripe Safety when you get a chance if you want more of the recoil spread over a wider area on the web of your hand .

I have also seen the Grip safeties with a notch , just for the extended hammers .

I like the frame also .

392heminut · October 6, 2014

Todd, it doesn't matter one single bit what that 1911 looks like - YOU BUILT YOUR OWN 1911!!!!!!!!!! :hail: :hethan:

^^^^^^This! <thumbsup>

Madhouse · October 6, 2014

Yeah, I'm gonna get with this same seller and get several more of these frames now. That one only ran $175, and I bet he'd give me a discount on multiples.

AR builds just got too boring lately. I still have several to do, but I see 1911 work in my foreseeable future.

6132expert · October 7, 2014

Group buy on frames??? She a beauty. Now how does it shoot?... What is the total cost in this if you dont mind sharing?

Madhouse · October 7, 2014

I haven't shot it yet, but I did the pencil test and the firing pin is working! :banana:

I bought the frame for $175 and the complete parts kit for $300, so $475 total in this gun (aside from the specialized tools I had to buy, but I'll be using those again).

I'm going to completely tear it down again, I still want to work the trigger action a little, I think I can improve it. Then it's to the range. <thumbsup>

Madhouse · October 7, 2014

LOL, and that ugly paint on the grips, I have no idea what that's about, that's how they came. The other side is worse, it has 108 written on it in paint.

6132expert · October 7, 2014

Yeah grips are nasty...but I like the rest

Microgunner · October 7, 2014

Military surplus take off grips.

Madhouse · October 7, 2014

At some point I will need to figure out a coating color for the frame, or maybe for the whole unit.

Microgunner · October 7, 2014

I can hear a FDE coming.

planeflyer21 · October 7, 2014

I'm going to completely tear it down again, I still want to work the trigger action a little, I think I can improve it. Then it's to the range. <thumbsup>

Be very, VERY careful here! This is where I fouled up a textbook trigger job on mine by thinking "I can get it perfecter...D'OH!"

survivalshop · October 7, 2014

There are a lot of jigs to do trigger jobs on 1911's.

Tripledeuce · October 7, 2014

Yes on the trigger jigs! Over the years, I'v collected 5 different ones!

Currant favorite is the Power custom, series 1.

Respectfully

Terry

survivalshop · October 7, 2014

I have been thinking of getting Series II for a while now , just don't do much trigger work any more . To many custom drop in's , for all kinds of firearms now a days. Even though you may have to do some work with the drop in's , most aren't that bad.

Madhouse · October 8, 2014

Ok my 1911 guru guides, I have a question.

Do you see any need in chamfering the holes on the inside of the frame for the legs of the safety plunger? I have the tool to expand those hollow legs, but I had seen where some guys took a round bit on a dremel and cupped those openings a bit on the inside. Is this necessary?

And a comment back on the hammer and hammer strut assembly - the roll pin was the pin (in this particular kit) for that purpose. There was no other pin for it.

planeflyer21 · October 8, 2014

No experience installing that piece but have read that it helps to allow the legs a better bite.

I want to say one of Brownell's Gunsmith Kinks books has an article on soldering this piece also (in conjunction with staking). I'll take a look later when I get more time.

Tripledeuce · October 8, 2014

I'v never, in 50 years, camphered the ejector tube holes. Thats not to say, depending on your gun, that it might be a good idea.

Respectfully

Terry

Tripledeuce · October 8, 2014

If there is one thing I'v learned, in 50 years of ;smithing, it that one person NEVER knowes it all!LOL!!

Respectfully

Terry

392heminut · October 8, 2014

I have always chamfered the holes like you described, with a ball shaped cutting bit in a Dremel. The other thing you should do is put a drop of red loctite on each of the posts of the plunger tube before putting it in the frame and staking it. The loctite fills the voids and after it sets up it keeps the plunger tube from moving around in the frame. We used to do the same thing with front sights on 1911's back when we were staking them on the slide, back before dovetail front sights became common. We chamfered the hole for the front sight tenon inside the slide too before staking.