survivalshop

I have no words in which to help you through this .

I think the whole problem is the Accuracy Speaks trigger , its set up far too light for the purpose I intended the use it for . If I use the factory spring & sear , it will Hold , but I don't trust it. If I use any of the different springs that come with the Timney kit , it will drop the hammer , if you squeeze it hard or pump the trigger. I have a new 870 3" mag , & plan to compare the two together & set up the new carrier assemble from it & install the Timney kit into it ( with out the AS hammer) & see how it works . When the factory sear spring & sear on the AS hammer ,I had between 51/2 # _ 6 # pull & it sucked eggs . No matter what spring I used or how I adj. the adj on the sear , it was about 11/2 # pull . Not what I want for a Hunting firearm. It even warns you in the instructions ,thats its for target guns. I will keep this carrier assembly for spare parts & get another assembly for this 870 ( unless I like the way the new carrier assembly works , that I'm taking out of the new 870 shotgun . I have plenty of photo's & will post them when all is done ,so we can see the solution .

Finally got around to picking up & installing the 870 fix by Timney triggers , nice part . Problem I have is the safety doesn't hold with the fix in , but if I put the stock sear in , it works just fine . I checked it out & the sear is being moved with just installing the trigger plate bushing . Could also be tolerance stacking between the new hammer & sear . I'm not new at this , so it shouldn't be much to figure out , just want to see what Timney says . I will post some photo's after I get in touch with Timney to see what they say. Could be that the Smith that did the trigger work ,did some thing to the trigger , who knows . I also have a new trigger assembly( with gold trigger ) & a trigger( for a spare ) , just to play with it if I find more was adj. on the trigger when the trigger job was done.

I had PRI cut a brake to the spec's of my 20"HB for a smooth transition & it was just a few bucks more for them to do it & the brake works great. I have just recently attached a Daniel Defense ,(std) Mitigator brake on a 5.56 & since they make one for 308 & I plan on trying one out on my 16" 308 ,which just has a flash suppressor on it. It really impressed me how it tamed even the 5.56 down , because I was shooting with a bare barrel before attaching it . Just so many good choices now a days, hard to choose.

What does the primer look like on spent case ? Any signs of over pressure ? Heavy crimp can cause case shoulder set back & even though you checked case after sizing , how about a loaded round ? If rifle functions with factory , ya know its the reloading procedure, of course. Just go back & go over what you are doing & it will come to you . What kind of crimping are you using ?

We use TMS & its a large group of hospitals.

It doesn't take much to screw up the sear engagement surfaces . The disconnect should stop the hammer from dropping with out releasing & pulling the trigger again.

Ok , I want one , but see they are out of stock , should I just back order it ? This would be my first ambidextrous safety , never came across a need for one , but this is for the wife's (lefty ) carbine .

How about foliage green ?

They only had one pounders , so I got a half doz. , would of rather had an eight pounder , but I needed some & it was there . Now if small pistol primers would show up , I would be set up, only thing I'm getting short on

I just ordered powder from Natchez . They must have got a shipment , first I've seen in a long time . Not all brands ,but some you might use or need . My order was for IMR 4064 , I use for reloading custom hunting ammo .

Doubt the laws will be reversed even if all the firearms manufacturers left ,but might make others think ,maybe we can get some of the business back if we change. The prospects of jobs to help there economy's may change they way they look at it . Then again , I don't see many of the assholes worrying about jobs much , just how to spend all the tax payers money they can, as fast as they can.

Yes , I should have put the "NO" In front of it . Quote from Forster Products, A rifle with correct head space should close easily and with out feel on the "GO " gage but should not close on the "NO GO" gage. If it does close on the "NO GO " gage , but not the "FIELD " gage the rifle is still considered serviceable , although its not advisable for best accuracy, any rifle that will close on the "FIELD " gage has dangerously excessive head space and should not be fired under any circumstances . About the as said above.

I use spray lube , but its not dry . I use Dillon case lube. What's the dry stuff ?

I see FA has there Med. Wt. S/S barrels back in stock , damn there goes another four hundred out of my pocket .

Most modern head space gages have a slot for the extractor ( for easy removal ), but the ejector should be removed because it can give a false reading because of the pressure it exserts on the head space gage. I seldom even use the "Field" gage , only if I think the" NO GO" gage feels sloppy . You should not have to use any thing but very light pressure on seating the BCG whan testing, one finger should work to seat it & not much pressure . Your NIB BCG set has a little thicker coating & will be a little tighter ,as with the whole action of a newly built rifle , so more resistance than the Phosphated BCG. Lube her up wet & I use Gun Slick grease if you want ( or some kind of gun grease )on the back part of the bolt lugs for newly build actions until they break in . Load one round in the mag & don't sissy , or follow the BCG closed , pull the charging handle back all the way & let it fly or drop the bolt release if its holding the BCG . If the round chambers to full battery , fire it & then load two, then if all goes well , then load three . If the FCG works like it should ,load the mag to full capacity & have at it. Note ; if you are hard up for cash , sell the Bolt , but if not , keep it for a spare .

With traffic behind the target no less, not sure what to say on that one.

Now that's a good idea , now that I have a Contour video camera to attach to any rail i wish .

This brake is by far, the best I have tried so far , may change the out the one on my 16" 308 , since they make on in 308 cal. I shot this 16" lite wt. Wilson Combat barrel quit a bit with out any device on it & the change is , to me , outstanding .

I think your reading too much into the head space gages , if you can close on the field gage , you got a problem or just a loose chamber , which can still be servicable , its not writen in stone , unless your a match shooter,bench rest ect. . Other than that ,just shoot what ever you like or better yet ,what the barrel/chamber likes. Head space gage is more for bolt to barrel/chamber/barrel extension fit . 7.62x51 has a longer chamber throat area for a lot of reasons( and none of them for match groups ), the 308 is a higher pressure round. (some what ) I have shot both 7.62x51 & .308 in all of my rifles. Of course you may print tighter groups with one or the other( Match .308, of course ) , there is not enough differece in the two to worry about . If your chamber is so tight that it won't chamber & shoot 7.62x51, I would wonder about the barrel/chamber ( DPMS is one I've seen screwed up chambers )

I know I would find a use for the side rail on this SI Defence upper receiver.

I kind of have a mixed view on this subject , I have wanted to have multiple uppers for a couple of lowers ,but I too ,like the different rifles . There is on other thing, safety , I built a dedicated 300 BLK rifle with the Tactical Machining lower & upper & stamped that way on the lower , makes you think about not interchanging the wrong ammo in a rifle or just trying to & feeling a dooooooo moment or some thing worse. I do like the idea of it though & the ability to do so.

I think when you get to a point that the case doesn't support the bullet at your specified COL , the case length may matter , maybe not . It may also have a neck tension problem with some bullets with the case too short , so to speak . I have found its more important to have them as close to the same length as possible & also with in a weight range for case volume . Pressure is important in keeping everything consistent from one loaded round to the other. It's probably the same as with COL & I'm sure different bullet types & brands will act differently, depending on case trimmed or not trimmed length. I know when I first started loading .223/5.56 , I didn't have a trimmer & they seemed to work , but at that time I was not loading for precision , just blasting away. now after all these years , I am more of a refined reloader ,not that I don't reload blasting ammo ,I'm just more picky about how I do it. You may also run into chamber pressure problems with an over or under length case. Basically , if they are close ,it won't matter much , as long as they go bang safely .

Ya , the bolt guns look sweet , but I would never give up the fire power of a precision semi auto for one .Now if ya have two , well than , no problem getting into a trade off. Then there is the Nemo in 300 win mag.

Some have been used in load testing & may have got mixed up with std loads. When I pick up brass on the range , I always seem to miss some from one batch to another & they tend to get mixed in ,but should not be many if they do. Probably CCI or WW, I have some bench rest Remington's ,but use them for hunting loads mostly. I don't understand about the Wolf ,never used there primers & so far it's been .223 & 5.55 ,have not had a problem with the large rifle primers . I do not think it has any thing to do with brand , but my stretching the limits of the brass . I just wanted to share how ,I now have added another test to weed out possible failures in my ammo. I looked at my log , they were CCI primers , but I shot over 150 or so & one bad round , so it would be hard to blame the primer manufacturer .