Tripledeuce

Base dia on a Swede is .477, rim is .480. Base on a 7.62 is .470, and rim .473. Again, it appears , to me, to be a .260. respectfully Terry

Respectfully. the 7.62 nato necked to 6.5 is the 260 rem. It looks like a "standard" 260 reload to me. 6.5X308=260 rem. Terry

I ALWAYS check the headspace! Better to have it checked than to try to buy a new eye. Respectfully Terry

Actually, its not possible for the small primer to ignight large quanties of powder. Federal had to come out with a "special", that has now become "standard" for the large british cases. The small primers in 308 came out of the benchresters desire for it befor brass was available for the BR ctgs, and they had to be formed from std 308. An inch and a half case takes a lot less powder than a std 308. Federal once made a small run of 30-30 brass with small primers, again, for the BR crowd. Boy!!! I wish I still had some of those 30-30 cases. They really did make a difference with some of the wildcats! Respectfully Terry

Yep, same memory here! Thats part of why I use the grease pencile. Respectfully Terry

WEll,,,,,as for why,,,,,,I just wanted to see how long it would take...LOL!! Terry

Only accurate rifles are interesting Towsand Whelen.

Perhaps you are correct

I have a RC on my bench that is almost 40 years old,,,,in fact, I just looked, and it is stamped 71, as RCBS used to date presses and dies. Its loaded everything from 25acp to 460Wby. I use the loading manuel from whatever bullet mfg I happen to be using for a paticular load. Hornady for hornady, Speer for Speer, etc. Don't change ANYTHING from the load without going back and starting with the lightest load, Especially primers. primers can really change "how" a load works. Reloading is only cheaper because your re-using your brass. If you have to buy brass, you can buy loaded ammo, in most cases, as cheaply as you can load them, unless you have a "special" load worked up. One tip. If you are using multiple powders, use a grease pencil to wright the propellent in the measure ON the measure. It saves mixing up powders, and having to throw away a can 'cause they got mixed up. Respectfully Terry

Guys, I feel your misssing my point. If the original poster "didn't want to upset anyone",,,,,,,,Why did he post? On "other" board, there is an "ignore" button, where you can just "ignore" any person that you disagree with. That is all I really wish for. I, personally, make it a firm rule NOT to discuss politics with friends,,,,,,I have to few friends to annoy any of them. A "belly up to the bar" political discussion is not for me. Not because I cannot hold my own. I just don't want to try to overwhelm my opponent with rhetoric Respectfully Terry Respectfully Terry

I ordered a barrel extension for my RR last week. @ the 4 or5th.It arrived yesterday,the 11th. Pretty good, in my opinion! And only $38 including shipping! A very good price for the amounts of machining, if you ask me. Looks like I'll be working on that 338 federal barrel for my wife this weekend. LOL!! Respectfully Terry

A very logical, and rational reply. The exception being, I'm obsessive/compulsive. If I read something,,,,even if I know it will "upset" me,I HAVE to read it. It just seems to me,,that if the poster begins a topic with " I hope this does not offend anyone" that that post should never have been posted in the first place. Respectfully Terry

How was I offended? Simple. I come here ( here being 308AR.com) to talk guns, not to discuss politics. If I wanted to talk politics, I would go to one of the many boards dedicated to politics. I come here to talk guns, and gun related things, to relax from "the real world" where politics invades every waking moment. The title of this board is 308AR.com, not 308AR and politics.com. Unless I'm wrong, in which case ,I guess I'll have to find another board to hang around at. Respectfully Terry

If you don't want to piss anyone off, why make a political post on a non-political board? So, Yes, you did offend at least one person,,,,ME!!!! Terry

Some members at our local range "request" shooters with MB's to move as far down the line away from the other shooters as possible. <laughs> It just depends on who gets to the range first. Terry

Actually, taking to small a cut on 4140 steel can actually work harden the steel, and make it harder to make additional cuts. A .030 total cut = .015 per side, small by machinest standards. Think 3 sheets of printer paper held together. Fluting is the Last step befor heat treating,,,,,unless you have your gunsmith turn or flute the bbl. respectfully Terry

My apologies Terry

Recontouring barrels is one thing that I'v seen a lot of in my general gunsmithing days. The only "safe" way is to make "small" cuts .030-.040 total at a time, and the lathe run in its slowest back gear( 60-80 rpm) Yes, I know a lot have done it with bigger cuts, and faster feeds, I'v also seen a lot of bent bbls, and "un-screwed" bbls. unscrewed meaning you could look down the bore and actually SEE the variation of the rifling. Flame me if you will,,but that's been my experience, especially the lighter the contour. The lighter the contour, the easier it is to screw up. And, yes! The bbl defiantly should be reheat treated after re-profiling. Respectfully Terry

In my way of thinking,,,,,,,,its your gun,,,,,,,,,,,,,,do whatever makes you happy Terry

WOW!!!!! Thats a really nice present! Terry

98% of the time, I carry a Kimber Ultra Carry II, .45acp, with two extra mags. Wife carries a Kimber solo.......fits real well in her jacket pocket. Once in a great while, I'll carry a Manhurin( French copy of the walther PP) 32acp as a second gun. Go to, My old Colt series 70 .45acp. After 30 years, and a couple of barrels, and to much ammo to count,,,,,,,,,,,,My hand fits its grip like a very good friend. Respectfully Terry

416 is 416. Doesn't matter if it was made in the '70' 0r 2011. I gave hard data, not top of the head conjecture. Sure bbls will last for thousands of rounds,,,it just depends on what your standard of accuracy is. Respectfully Terry

In the 70's and 80's I was building unlimited guns for Handgun Metalic Silhouette. using mainly Douglass barrels, but also shilen and obermier. i bought the barrels in 32-34 inch lengths, and cut them into 15" blanks. I replaced many barrel ls that had "worn out". It occur ed anywhere from 4,000 to 8,000 rounds. I still have several that I sectioned. They all showed severe throat wear,going from"no" rifling to "full" rifling in 1 1/2 to 2". This is fact, from master class shooters, and known rounds through a gun. Although the guns would shoot perfect 40"s in com petion, they were not accurate enough to win the shoot offs, 4" steel circles at at 175 yards with metallic sights. All barrels were "match" grade, and air gauged, the best available at the time. Shilen wore quicker than Douglass, douglass quicker than Obermayer. Factory Remington, when they came out with the 7br wore about like Douglass. The Benchrest shooters I have talked to say a "match" barrel is good for about 1,500 rounds, then is a accurate varmint gun. I never personally saw a barrel that would go 10,000, in competition. Respectfully Terry

Actually, the 6.5 creedmore is based on the 300 savage, with the sholder set back, Its almost identical to the "old" 6,5 international, that Elgin Gates came up with 30 years ago. Respectfully Terry

I heard from a friend, who made carbon fiber bbls, that the hornady favtory ammo was shooting less than .4 from several rifles from the bench at 100. That was when he and I were discussion the merits of the 260 vs the 6.5 creedmore. Respectfully Terry