gnatshooter

This is what I'm currently using on the muzzle, which makes a little bit of difference: http://www.blackrivertactical.com/product.html

Maybe Starbuck's doesn't want something like this to happen in their coffee shop: 2 Concealed Carry Holders Kill Each Other In Road Rage Incident - Huffington Post - September 19, 2013 http://huff.to/157JBPP

I did that. When I release the trigger, there is an internal 'click' that I can feel in the trigger group. Then when I pull the trigger, there is a second 'click', which seems like the hammer is falling. I think maybe the first click is the disconnect releasing, is that right? If that's right, I passed all the tests.

I didn't do any 'safety checks' and would like to know more about them. All advice is of course welcome, safety is a top priority. Thanks!

Friends, I just completed a 'trigger job' on my DPMS LR-308T. It was a frightening experience, but I'm happy with the result. I actually liked the factory trigger in most ways. The pull was long, which was OK with me, which helps make the hammer trip 'a surprise', which I was taught was WWII-era sniper discipline. The trouble was, the pull was nasty and gritty. As one author somewhere aptly described it, pulling the trigger was "like dragging a hoe over gravel." I watched enough YouTube videos and read enough stuff online to believe I could take down the trigger group and polish the parts where the trigger meets the hammer. Things came apart fairly normally, except for my fright when I discovered I had to remove the safety selector to get the trigger out. Searching online I eventually discovered that this meant pulling off the grip, which I did, and two springs and two detents fell out. I have had bad experiences with springs. Once things were apart I took my new sharpening stone out of the package and gave up on it. The stone was a waste, except that I can use it on kitchen knives. The problem was too rough a grit, so I went instead for some #400 grit sandpaper. Which I already had. Geesh. After 45 mins. of polishing the sear of the trigger I figured it was as bright and smooth as it would ever be. I looked at the notch in the hammer, and tiny as it was, I figured I wouldn't be able to do a thing with it, even though one video guy recommended filing it with a tiny file. Which I had. But I figured, a smooth sear should be good enough for the whole mechanism. Putting the trigger group back together, I found that my new 1/8" punch for pin removal was my best investment, as it held things lined up for me while I pushed the pins back in. It was maybe a good thing I noticed when they came out that the extra groove on the pin ends went on the right-hand side of the rifle. Nobody mentioned that in the videos, but I figured they should go in the way they came out. My second fright was finding that, with the trigger, disconnect and hammer back in place, the safety selector wouldn't go in the hole. After lots of fooling, turns out if you cock the hammer back, it goes right in. Hooray for that. And you can imagine my relief when the detents and springs went right into place for the safety selector and takedown pin. The final result is, the trigger is actually a bit lighter -- since there's less friction in the parts where the 'gravel' used to be. The pull is now smooth, and though the trigger doesn't 'break like glass', it's sharp enough. Overall, I'd say, if you don't want to blow $200 or so for a better trigger, you should consider doing a 'home-made' trigger job. I'm happy with the result.

No, I do not have one of those. Guess I got no deflector.

Friends, I live out in the country, where I can shoot as much as I want. I'm accumulating a lot of once-fired .308 Win brass, as it just seems a shame to leave it lying on the ground. The question is what to do with the brass that's piling up. I don't reload, and don't know anyone who reloads. Seems to me, I should be able to donate the spent brass for a good cause. Has anyone out there heard of people, like maybe the NRA or Wounded Warrior, accepting donations of spent brass? I would then recommend that my LGS join up as a 'collection site' for spent brass donations -- and that would give me another good reason to visit my LGS! Any thoughts out there?

If the brass deflector is the little flappy-door thingie on a hinge at the ejection port, I don't have one of them on my unit.

Friends, I shoot a DPMS LR-308T and have noticed that the necks of the empty cases (spent brass) are not perfectly round. Instead, they are slightly flattened on one side. Like they are hitting something hard on the way out of the chamber or something. Does this mean I have a problem with the rifle? It shoots flawlessly -- no FTFs, FTEs, etc. Thanks!

I have several .22 builds and the ones with the Recoil Eliminator ('tank brake') are the most accurate. It's probably the most effective brake on the market. But yes, at the range and with a .308 it will probably knock the hats off of the people next to you.

I tell ya, shooting this iron with a crappy little 8-inch sight radius is just plain too 'fiddly' to be useful hunting in the field. Finding that last little smidgen of MOA is fine if you have the patience. I tried mounting an extra gas block at the muzzle and mounting the front sight there, but then you see the entire front sight assembly sitting in the rear notch. People who engineer open sights -- even Williams -- are darn lazy bastids except maybe those who build sights for Anschutz air pistols. So about $300 in open sights just went into the parts box, maybe I'll try for some action on Ebay. And then I went to the LGS (Scheels) and got a Trijicon RX30A-51. (Cost me about $100 less than at Brownells.) Uses ambient light and has a tritium insert for low-light conditions. No battery, and more importantly, no parallax. I'll be sighting that in today if conditions permit, and we'll see what sorts of groups I can get. The dot on the Trijicon is 6.5 MOA, which visually is pretty small, and that MOA coverage is pretty close to what you get with the front blade on open sights. As far as managing muzzle blast, I'm going to look into having a machinist turn me out a "bloop tube" on a lathe and see what I can get with that.

"Some gun owners have told the manufacturers they will no longer buy guns made in New York because of the new law."

Just a quick update - the AR-15 / M-16 308 5 1/2" Flash Hider w/Holes from Northern Gun Parts is, from the shooter end of things, noticeably louder than the Bison Armory BRT Linear Compensator. So the BRT is at least doing something. One thing I noticed when building a suppressor for a .22 is that the majority of muzzle blast -- for that caliber at least -- is the bullet going supersonic. With subsonic ammo it was quieter than an air rifle. If the same holds true for .308, there's no real solution without going with subsonic ammo, and I'm not going there. BTW the BRT makes a huge fireball, easily visible in daylight. I'm not too happy with that. It wouldn't take an engineering miracle to combine a linear compensator with the features of a 3-prong Smith Vortex or something similar. As far as lining up the sights, I'm getting 5/8" groups at 50 yards using open sights with a crappy little 8" sight radius. That makes me think I could have a sub-MOA gun if I was willing to put some glass on it, which I won't. I might eventually consider a holographic reflex sight like an EOTech. Parallax error from scopes drives me nuts, and so is peeking around the scope to get the scope lined up. Besides, I shoot with both eyes open and always have.

I've heard that the Noveske pig increased barrel pressure leading to the BCG being overgassed.

Actually, a linear suppressor isn't supposed to reduce the muzzle report, just redirect it downrange and away from the shooter. The result is supposed to be it's just as loud as before, just directionally loud.

One of the things I'm looking at real hard is the grip adapter at Pearce Grips. That allows you to put any Government Model 1911 Colt grips on any "AR 15 style" rifle. Which means nearly any style of 'grip porn' for my DPMS LR 308 is possible. There's lots of nice stuff out there for 1911 grips. Walnut burl, antler, composite, Amazon jungle wood, you name it.

Since I'm not getting ideal results from using the Bison Armory BRT Linear Compensator to reduce muzzle blast, I'm wondering -- has anyone tried out one of the fake suppressors on the market and noticed a reduction in muzzle blast? This is supposed to be a hunting .308 so my ears will be naked, and I'm looking for options. I also noticed Kaw Valley has a linear comp offered through Joe Bob Outfitters but wonder if I'd just be getting pretty much the same as with the Bison Armory unit.

Wow. Reading the whole lawsuit is well worth your time. Basically the guy is getting sued for what he posted in a discussion group, like this one. Gotta wonder if CMMG might want to go after a few people with a copycat lawsuit over a few unkind remarks about their stuff. This is bad news and lawyers ain't cheap. This is like holding blog commenters to the same standard as newspaper reporters.

Next up I'm gonna try the AR-15 / M-16 308 5 1/2" Flash Hider w/Holes from Northern Gun Parts to see if it might cut down on muzzle blast on the LR-308T. For $18.50 it's a cheap experiment. Looks kinda Hollywood on the rifle though and adds extra weight.

Friends, this is a report from my first time out with my DPMS LR 308T and lining up the sights. (This is after my first try, when I discovered it wouldn't eject spent brass and sent it back on a 4-week trip to get a new extractor.) For the rear sight I have a D&L Sports (Dave Lauck) CQB Iron Sight . It's an open notch sight, which I prefer, and may be the only such sight on the market for a picatinny rail -- aside from the peepers that you can 'flip' to give you a rear notch. It's adjustable for windage and elevation and held on with four (4) transverse mounting screws. For the front sight I have the JP Enterprises Detachable Front Sight Base AR-15 with Lyman Globe Sight and I am using the Lyman post reticle/insert. It comes with Lee Shaver 'fine' inserts, but the notch in the D&L Sports rear sight is too wide to make them useful. I called D&L and asked them if they made a narrower notch for their rear sight and they said no, they didn't, and I might wind up asking them if they would do a custom 0.60" notch for me. To handle some of the recoil I have a Heavy XH Rifle Buffer and it makes the whole thing reasonable to shoot. To help save my ears I have a Bison Armory BRT Linear Compensator which is supposed to direct the muzzle blast away from me and downrange. While not as bad as the JP Enterprises Bennie Cooley compensator I had originally, it still made my ears ring. Anyhow, with this setup and a target at 15 yards, I couldn't get on the paper, using a custom-printed target on an 8"x11" piece of paper. Bad news, and three rounds gone. Time to go back to the drawing board. Using the handy-dandy calipers, I worked out the difference in rail heights, between the receiver rail and the rail on the gas block. Turns out, there is a 0.28" difference. With both sights mounted next to each other on the receiver rail, that means the front sight needs to sit 0.28" higher than the rear sight. Since the globe on the JP Lyman sight rides on an adjustable rail, I moved it up -- man, it was way off -- and I got on paper the first shot. Five rounds later I sent one dead through the 3/4" bullseye. Time to start moving the target further downrange to where I'm shooting at 100 yards, but had to quit as the farmer moved into the field I'm shooting into as background. I'll have to save the rest for another day. I don't know how good I'll do at longer ranges, as these open sights only give me 8" of sight radius. First lesson learned -- Before trying to get on paper, mount the two sights on the same rail and make their height difference the same as the height difference between the receiver and gas block rails. It'll save ammo (at $1 per round or thereabouts) and a lot of guessing and head-scratching. Second lesson learned -- the BRT linear compensator doesn't tame things down all the way. My ears are ringing and that ain't good. This is supposed to be a naked-ears hunting rifle. Short of adding a suppressor I'm open to other suggestions for a muzzle device.

Concealed carry tips for female shooters - Herald Tribune - September 2, 2013 http://thegunwriter.blogs.heraldtribune.com/13937/concealed-carry-tips-for-female-shooters/ [snip] "Our hip to waist ratios, especially for smaller framed ladies, exclude some carry options for us. The second one concerns the differences between male and female modes of dress – and that issue we do have more control over. That said, if you are a female who is serious about carrying concealed at all times, you will need to get used to altering your mind set when selecting your wardrobe." "the process of holster selection for both men and women, concealment/accessibility and retention, must sometimes be compromised to accommodate certain types of female wardrobe." [snip]

Second suspect arrested in beating death -- 16 years old. http://www.philly.com/philly/wires/ap/news/20130826_ap_c37a29f81eff4a24add687807cf4032b.html?c=r

Remington Arms scouts Middle TN after N.Y. bans its rifle, The Star-Press, August 20, 2013 "Remington’s roughly 1,200-employee plant in Ilion makes rifles such as the Bushmaster semiautomatic weapon, which is now banned under New York’s Secure Ammunition and Firearms Enforcement Act, the first law passed by any state post-Newtown." http://tspne.ws/16bfvob

A great place to shop for ammo is gunbot.net, and they've found some 300 http://www.gunbot.net/ammo/300-aac-whisper/ They have the other calibers too.

How an effective criminal justice system works!