FaRKle!

Another thing about hard body armor: A higher level rating doesn't mean it must protect against threats rated at lower levels. The level IV spec means that it must stop one round of M2-AP "black tip" .30-06. The level III spec is that it must stop six rounds of M80 ball. Thus, you can have level III and IV plates that don't stop .223 threats. It's important to see what each plate has been tested to. UHMPE plates tend to stop M193, and not M855 for instance.

OK, I've got some questions now lol. What made you decide to make your AR-15 and .308AR bolts out of 9310? How are your bolts tested (what tests do they go through, and are they all individually tested or batch tested)? Thanks!

Nice score on the Eagle rig! Avoid AR500 plates. Save your money for composite plates. There are good composite plates you can get around $150 and good deals on used plates (not shot) are always on places like LF and M4C. A couple years ago I got a pair of ESAPIs for $350 shipped. They weren't stolen (no US Gov't markings or stickers), and had recently been inspected (x-ray'd) for cracks/integrity. AR500 doesn't perform well against high velocity threats (such as M193), and instead of capturing the projectile will spall it into you.

Welcome! You're definitely not stepping on any toes by joining us here and thanks for the opportunity to ask you more questions about your products. It certainly builds customer confidence and trust.

I'm anxiously waiting for them too, but I'm reminded of how they told us the Bren-Ten was coming too... Unlike that though, I'm sure this will come, but not holding my breath "soon" means the same thing to them.

Welcome! I took a look at your site and didn't see any AR related items. I hope you're able to find what you're looking here to expand that capability for your clients.

Unfortunately I don't think it's released yet. It's been on their site for some time (I've been watching closely), but not out yet.

I thought somebody here bought one. I remember asking them about the SLR's weight.

ALG

The AR-10 model. No reason why it shouldn't work in an AR-15 and I like full power hammer springs (a USAMU study showed that weak/"reduced power" hammer springs induce more variability).

Their .223/5.56 is actually pretty good, but their M80 ball is pure trash (popped primers galore!). I use their 62gr.

Well, I'm $213.35 poorer... I'll see how it stacks up to my SD-E :). I'm definitely a 2-stage fan.

Ugh, I can't recommend Arms Unlimited as a vendor. They got caught selling multiple fake parts (Raptor charging handles and Raddlock bullet buttons). Unfortunately, I got scammed on their fake Raddlocks.

Seconded. I love my PPQ. It'as a very easy gun to shoot. Mine's also an M1 (I like the levers better).

Given these, I recommend a 16" barrel. It will accomplish all of these requirements without being a pig. Rainier Arms and Mega Arms are well known for putting out quality barrels that will hold the accuracy you're looking for. If you don't mind waiting a bit longer, I'd also wait till our forum sponsor, Criterion, re-releases their rifle-gassed 16" barrel. The rifle-length gas system will make for a smoother and softer recoil impulse. For a BCG, what you choose doesn't matter as much as long as it's from a quality brand. Unlike AR-15s, the bolt material for a .308AR isn't as critical since the original AR-10 was designed to use 8620 steel (and AR-10 rifles still come with 8620 bolts). A 9310 or C158 bolt will be fine. I also don't care for fancy coatings as they don't seem to add much value functionally.Aero Precision makes a good BCG at a good price. With a mid-length gas system and 16" barrel it wouldn't hurt to get an adjustable gas block. SLR Rifleworks makes an excellent one that doesn't get locked up with fouling, has very positive clicks, and is well made. I use one on my AR pistol. They're also coming out with a lightweight titanium version soon. If you choose to not get an adjustable one, be sure to get one from a quality manufacturer. There are many gas blocks out there that aren't made that well and therefore don't seal as well as they should. BCM is my go to "cheap" gas block and has always fitted very snugly on any barrel I've put one on. Whether you get an adjustable gas block or not, get the set screw version over a clamp on one and be sure to dimple the barrel if not already done. Dimpling will prevent the block from rotating mechanically unlike a clamp on. Loctite on the screw threads is also important (blue 242 works fine). Go light. This is an area you can easily save weight. Some of the lightest rails I've seen are the Fortis Switch, JL Billet, and SLR Lite/Ultra Lite rails. Getting a matched upper and lower is a good idea due to the various tolerances in the .308AR world. Aero Precision's are the popular choice right now (cheap, but good). For some of the nicest you can find though (workmanship), Mega and SI-Defense are where it's at. I will always recommend going with an AR-10 pattern buffer system. It consists of an AR-10 pattern receiver extension (such as VLTOR's A5 receiver extensions), AR-10 action spring, and H3 AR-15 carbine buffer. This provides for a smoother recoil stroke and is closer to the original Stoner design. It also allows you to tune your buffer weight much cheaper.

Welcome! I commend you for clearly stating your requirements and use cases so that we can come up with some specifications for you! Requirements always drive specifications and it's frustrating when people don't give you enough to work on to at least give a decent recommendation. This is a mindset I'm trying to change. I will follow up on some recommendations later tonight on your components :).

Ammoman has been just fine for me. He had some very good Black Friday deals last year and I got my order quickly.

What type of shooting will you be doing with the .308? Do you have any requirements (weight, FFP/SFP, ect.)?

Sounds like a crutch for poor barrel nut torque (just like loctite on the receiver extension and castle nut).

No laser boresighters for me. Doing it manually has always worked for me at 100yds to get on paper.

The Switch rail broke? How?

Is the rail not straight or the upper receiver?

Brownells has the correct buffer you need. Search part #231-000-276WB (mfg part #308BS11).

You can do 800yds with 16". Super easy. Push out the front pivot pin on the lower receiver (in front of the magwell) till it stops (it's captured). Then do the same for the rear take down pin in the rear (above the pistol grip). Place the front pivot pin hole on the upper receiver between the ears of the lower receiver and align it so the holes align. Then push the pin on the lower receiver through. Close the upper receiver on the lower and push the pin through in the rear. $20 is highway robbery for something that takes 15sec...

Make sure the receiver extension you're getting is the VLTOR A5 one otherwise the AR-10 buffer (H3 buffer) won't fit.