bubbas4570

To me there is no resemblance to a ching sling. The buckles are too close together to be a ching sling, and hanging around the scoutrifle .org site for many years....not a master, but a good student. Here is a decent example of a nylon ching slling....my knowledge is more on the leather side of things, but here you go.

They have done a fairly good job of running with ideas that have been around for years now. There isn't a whole lot new here, but there are many things put together in one place for purchase without going the custom route.....with a much lesser price than the custom work prices. That said, I would like to have one. Have owned 1895's for years, modified one to have a 16" barrel and scout rail.....fun toy. Not great as a hunting rifle, but that is due to the Marlin factory barrels (from that particular era) having a quirk that doesn't help in the accuracy department.

BWHAHAHHAAHAHAHAHH!!!!!!

I guess I am just back in the 90's yet with pistol grips that sucked....

My buddy is buying a keltec KSG, and he really likes the handling. I don't mind it either, although I would opt for the single tube version, just less weight and things to go wrong for me....I tend to break things. Those shockwaves just don't do it for me. I never really thought much about them when watching the original Miami Vice series either.....I had been hunting with shotties for years and knew those little buggers would not be much fun to control well.

Yes. At the basic level.....it is just drilling holes. Now to make the operation come out with operational parts that function in the way they are originally designed to......either a mill or lather should be employed. Same thing done at factory or forge......just more personal time involved.

A link to make your day brighter..... and something to piss you off... https://gunhub.com.au/open-letter-to-the-us/

If I am not mistaken, Quigley was shooting a 45/120 in the movie.

The friend that got me into the 358 Win stuff, well he likes shooting the big calibers....for him 45/70 is a good starting point.....50/70, 50/90, and some more that I cannot recall...African calibers are what he likes to plink with. But that is a whole other thread topic......

I have really narrowed my field as of late, but here goes..... 9mm, 357 Mag, 358 Win, .223, 45/70 🤪.....and the ones I no longer own 308, 762x39 ones I have loaded in the past...22-250, 300 H&H, 243, 38 spec, 45 acp

Hobby Lobby......pistolas not included. And the wife scored this and wants it put on our front door.....

MMMMmmmmmm...........

When I buy, silencer smooth is bought. That is their best one for me.

I should have clarified, case length.....

https://mdws.forumchitchat.com/post/358-yeti-vs-358-winchester-10249637 I just did a quick search of 358 yeti vs 358 win and found pretty much the same info I did before. If I remember what the main difference is the case size, coupled with the ability to easily make brass from 308 for the 358 Win, was the deal breaker for me. Another is I thought the Winchester can handle heavier projectiles than the yeti, easier i thought.

I have not loaded up any pistol bullets, yet. There are plans in the works for this, and it has been done without incident by members over on castboolits.com forum. For me, cost of boolits are not a large issue, as I plan on casting most of my projectiles for the caliber. What I do like is the ability of the cartridge to be able to use pistol bullets to provide a "gallery" type of loading. This is most of why I like it, a large range of weights to be usable in bullets. The use of a bolt and lever action helps me out, versus a semiautomatic.....but that should still work in single shot mode with everything. http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=36-235A-D.png This is the cast boolit I use in my 358 Win. Feeds flawlessly, and "thwacks" very nicely in the berm....even at a bit slower velocity. My friend reported that the iron targets really whacked and moved when hit. And he is no newbie to shooting at steel targets....has been doing it for more than 15 years.

I was trying to be as buying neutral as I could. Didn't want to influence anyone in a positive direction.......😈

One more thing, I noticed I split more when I went too fast....wasn't paying attention enough.

I dunno, I have 2 358 Winchester rifles. If you lube the necks well, take your time, there are not many failures with expanding the necks up. Brass headstamp and prior rounds fired through brass will affect more than anything. I lost more brass than my friend that resized a bunch into same caliber. He did LC headstamps, I used a mix.....I found that Federal split more on me than others. I sold out my 308's and went over to all 358's. Nothing more than a personal decision.....would be cool to have a 358AR though!😎

All I know is that an A1 stock is just too short for me, I might as well go to the carbine stock and pin it....at least that is what my ape arms tell me. The A2, totally different story for whatever reason. I pick up one of these on an AR, and it just feels perfect...can't figure out why that little bit of length does it, but it does. In my world the A1 and A2 are completely different for building a rifle......dunno.

No poop......

Maximum Thread Drift!!!!!!!

Ah shitz, finally got it to play.....NOW I see the problem.... Gonna be a hard one to fix.

FWIW, my 16" 308AR had the rifle length gas tube, and functioned very well....bad handloads not withstanding. The recoil was less than my Ruger bolt actions, and it shot better than I could. I wish I could give you port measurements, but it sold to a good friend as soon as I mentioned something about thinking of selling. It ran and shot that good.