COBrien

Magwa: They do make a .308 Rifle buffer, and it is different than the 5.56 rifle buffer or the .308 Carbine buffer. Fulton Armory's .308 AR is DPMS pattern, and their parts are top-notch, in my experience. http://www.fulton-armory.com/FAR-308-Lower-Parts.aspx $37 + shipping will get you up and running. I'm sure you can find .308 Rifle buffers and springs cheaper elsewhere, if you need/want to.

After thinking about it some more, I've decided to build the rifle -- err... upper -- "as-is" for now. In the event I decide I'm not happy with the accuracy, I'll give the DCM/NM FF sleeve a try. Honestly, after reading some reviews, I think the HBAR will end up being more accurate than I'm capable of on any given day, unless/until I start handloading.

Thanks for that, blue. I don't run steel in anything I own, but glad to hear they run well with brass. I'm not planning on running any more than a 1-4x optic on this rifle, at the very most. In fact, I've got my eye on a KAC Micro rear BUIS, and may end up with an EOTech or FastFire. This is the first firearm that I haven't had a purpose in mind for. I bought my Mini-14 back in '08 for a coyote gun, my .308 AR is a hog/deer gun, handguns for CC, Mossy 500 .410 for clays and general short-range shotgunning, etc., etc. This one is "just because."

The DTI barrel "kit" came in Saturday. Two things surprised me... 1. The FSB is already pinned in place. I'd planned on running a set-screw "wedge" style FSB from FA without a bayonet lug. No big deal, just that much more I have to do. With the barrel nut already on the barrel, this appears to be a "ready to install" setup, rather than the box of parts I was expecting. 2. This beast is HEAVY. I'm not all that concerned with the weight, per se, but I was surprised at the OD (weight) of the barrel. I hope this translates into accuracy... My plan for this build has, up to this point, included a "National Match" free float sleeve to allow the use of A1 or A2 (still haven't decided which...) handguards. I will be adding a sling swivel stud to the handguard for use with a sling and occasional bipod use, so I'd thought the FF sleeve would be a common-sense addition. Does anyone have any experience and/or "before-and-after" targets of free-float vs. traditional handguard mounting? I'm just wondering if the extra $120 and added weight are going to make a noticeable difference in the accuracy of this rifle, especially given the HBAR. I'd prefer to only build this rifle once -- not put it together "as-is", then later decide to run a FF sleeve...

Okay, I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how this 590 Shockwave is a non-NFA piece. IIRC, any shotgun with an overall length of less than 26" OR a barrel of less than 18" in length, as measured from the breech, falls under NFA. SBS = $200 tax stamp and Form 4. The mag capacity is too large for it to qualify as an AOW. $5 stamp and Form 4. I trust that Mossberg has done their homework, but the lawyer in me wants to know how this works. EDIT: The only way I can see (without looking up the NFA right now) is this: Since it leaves the manufacturer with a pistol grip, rather than a shoulder stock, and the capacity is large enough to be a 'firearm,' rather than an AOW, maybe it's one of those "loopholes" the blue-staters are always whining about.

It's not the mount I'd be worried about, it's the optic itself. The way it just sticks out there, it seems like it would be vulnerable if you're crashing through the woods with it in a backpack. A QD mount (i.e., Warne QD rings or something similar) would definitely be on my short list for that rifle, regardless of optic choice.

Very cool idea. I'd hesitate to leave an optic mounted when it's all packaged up in "backpack mode." Seems like asking for trouble.

Thanks for the input so far, fellas. Here's a preliminary parts list... DTI Dissy Barrel FA Upper, M4 FA USGI BCG RRA NM FF Sleeve Kit (this one comes with a pre-modified round "A2" handguard) FA upper parts Sig Taper-Lok Mini-Comp (setting myself up for that eventual suppressor purchase...) TacOps CH I have a hook-up if I decide to go with a MaTech BUIS (a buddy gets a new one every time he deploys...), but I'm also considering the KAC Micro BUIS for the rear. "Gently used" KACs are going for $60-ish on a popular online auction site. IF I end up building a lower, it will be a FA lower. RRA 2-stage (love the one in my .308AR), A2 buttstock (have one lying around from my .308AR), Hogue grip (again, love the one on my .308AR), and probably a FA LPK. Damn. This isn't turning into a cheap build, is it? Is there anywhere I can skimp a little and not pay for it later? The lawyer in me says to go with FA parts for FA receivers. That way, in the unlikely event there's an issue, FA can't blame it on inferior parts.

After seeing brother blue's Dissipator project and talking to a friend about building an AR, I've decided to build myself a Dissy. Or at least an upper. For now. This will be my first build, but I've become quite familiar with how everything goes together over the last year or so. Plus my buddy and his friend (from whom I purchased my LR-308T last spring) are quite adept with ARs. I've limited myself to spending no more than $150ish per month on this build. That's all I think the wife will let me get away with (once she finds out...). First month's budget already blown on the Del-Ton Dissipator barrel (kit?). Includes FSB, triangular hand guard cap, and barrel nut. Next month I'll pick up an upper and UPK. After that will come the BCG. Miscellaneous small parts will be ordered as needed. Then I'll figure out if (I only kind of mean that) I "need" to build a lower. My wife has a Bushy Carbon-15 that's a decent little carbine, but I don't get to swap parts on it like I could my own lower. My vision of this rifle includes an A2 buttstock. Or MagPul MOE Rifle buttstock. I'm planning to use this thread as a single place to ask questions about parts and get recommendations along the way. So, first question: Anybody have an opinion about Fulton Armory receivers? I've been impressed with everything I've purchased from them for my .308, so logic tells me their receivers should be quality, as well.

Welcome aboard from Oklahoma. I've recently found myself drooling over retro 5.56mm builds. It's too bad No Dak Spud isn't making .308 receivers, as they produce some of the best-looking (in my uneducated opinion) retro AR-15 receivers I've seen. And they'll distress them for you if you want that "lived in" look.

IMO, a side charging handle would be useful when shooting from a bench, i.e., long-distance shooting. In theory, it would allow you to charge the weapon and/or manipulate the charging handle without moving your head. For 99.5% of us, though, there's really no sense in paying the extra for a side-charging setup.

There's a pretty good shot of the side charging handle in this article: http://www.outdoorhub.com/news/2017/01/03/10-things-know-new-savage-arms-msrs/ Overall, the range Savage is offering looks interesting, but it's not anything I'd buy. I'll build one before I'll buy another complete rifle.

It didn't sink in to me that the Long Range was an MSR 10 -- I just assumed it was a 5.56 rifle.

I just received an e-mail from Grand View Outdoors talking about Savage's new MSR line. Upon checking it out, they have a Patrol rifle, a Recon rifle, and a Long Range rifle -- all in 5.56/.223 Rem. They are also offering their MSR 10 Hunter. Yet another proprietary design, it seems... http://savagearms.com/firearms/model/msr10hunter

Well... Now that everyone's posted a pic of their dog (or humanoid-canine creature...): These are the 2 I'm in need of collars for.

I've got 2 Basset Hounds that need new collars. I haven't bought anything yet, as they're both strong enough that the chintzy little plastic clips on most collars just won't do.

Thanks for that info, Sketch! I'm actually sitting here wondering if I really need a QD suppressor. Especially if the direct-thread versions offer better sound reduction. This will be my "universal rifle" can, used on the 308AR primarily, but it will also see some miles on a 5.56 AR and Mini-14, once the latter is threaded. 1/2-28 to 5/8-24 thread adapters are widely available, so why go QD and be stuck with the unsightly, IMO, Sig muzzle devices, which may or may not work as well as my Good Iron brake?

I've been looking for an opportunity to purchase a suppressor for a while now. Finally decided on the SIG SRD762-QD. I have now set up an NFA trust (just have to print the document and sign in front of a notary). Working through a "sample" Form 4 (I downloaded it and am filling it out -- may or may not use it for purchase, just wanted to be familiar with the form itself). Also working through a Form 5320.23 ("NFA Responsible Person Questionnaire"). Will have passport photos and fingerprint cards made for each Responsible Person (just 2 of us). Obviously 1 form is required for each Responsible Person... What other forms are required at this point?

A Ruger Mini-14 (owned one since '08, love it) and any shotgun in .410 (I now have 2, and would like to have a nice little Rem 1100...). An AR .410 upper? Sign me up.

I bought a secondhand (but still NIB) DPMS LR-308T (basically an Oracle with a FF handguard from the factory) back in May for $850. The guy had hung a Weaver Kaspa 3-12x50 on it and MagPul MOE Rifle Stock and then decided to build a .308 AR rather than gussy up this one. With a Rock River trigger, I was able to get this rifle to put 5-round groups inside a quarter at 100 yards. I ended up swapping the grip for a Hogue (great move, IMHO), changing the ridiculously high (but still not receiver-height) gas block for a low-pro from Fulton Armory, and a Fulton Rifle-Length FF tube. Then threw on an SEI Good Iron brake, and one of Slash's heavy buffers with AR10 spring. She now shoots soft as a 5.56 rifle. With all the recent changes, I'm still trying to find her favorite load as far as accuracy is concerned. She'll still put FGMM 168s within 1.25" at 100 yards, but I know this rifle is capable of better. Pics: Looking to pick up a Leupold VX-HOG 1-4x20 to try out on this rifle. Luckily Christmas is right around the corner...

For cheap scopes, you can't go wrong with a BSA. I had a Sweet 22 3-9x40 on a 10/22 for awhile, then moved that scope to my .22 WMR bolt gun. Not a bad little scope, especially for the price. The elevation turret is marked for 36-, 38-, and 40-gr bullets, IIRC, and the marks are close-ish. The marks for the side focus knob are also pretty close (compared side-by-side with my Leupold rangefinder). That Sweet 22 was replaced with a BSA "Tactical" 4-14x44 FFP Mil-Dash scope that has proven to be much more than I expected to get for the $250 I paid for it. I'm not a scope connoisseur by any means (most expensive optic I own is an EOTech that I bought on sale for like $275...), but I've been pleasantly surprised by the quality-for-money I've gotten out of my BSA scopes.

What kind of magnification are you looking for? 1-4x, 1-6x, 2-7x, 3-9x?

Welcome from OK! You're definitely in the right place.

Talk about a thread going right down the sh!tter... I don't see how it makes any difference how the armorer's wrench or crow's foot wrench is oriented in relation to the torque wrench. You're applying the same torque at the same point, which for any given wrench is 'x' distance from the center of the fastener being torqued to the center of the drive hole. You divide 'x' (in inches) by 12, add that to 1, and multiply the torque registered on the wrench by that number to figure the actual torque the fastener is experiencing. To use the example posted earlier, a wrench that measures 4" from the center of the barrel nut to the center of the 1/2" drive square is still going to provide 33.3% more torque than what the wrench shows. You're moving the actual "torque point" out 4" from the point where the "gauge" (the torque wrench) is reading, whether you insert it 90° or 180° to the wrench.

My SEI Good Iron brake came with a jam nut, and it's worked so far. Much easier than crush washers, IMO, and a damn sight better than shims. You should be able to pick up a 5/8-24 jam nut for next-to-nothing.