SimonSays

I love Calvin and Hobbs. I wish they hadn’t walked away into the sunset.

Welcome from the Magnolia State. You’re gonna love it here.

I received the reamer/lapping jig this morning. It had the spring drill adapter. Now I just need to use it. Thank you everyone for your input.

LOL. That’s an interesting and unusual method. You forgot the link to YouTube showing that technique on an S&B scope😉

I'm not sure, but the round things remind me of a timing disk for an annealing machine. A cartridge holder may slide into the slot. The two groups of holes may be used for timing. Place a pin in a hole to engage a lever. As the disk rotates, move the pin from hole to hole to adjust timing of a function, such as how long the cartridge stays in a flame or when to release a new cartridge. The timing idea may explain why there are a group of 4 holes and another group of 3. I really don't know, just a wild guess.

From the Q & A from Amazon: Question: My kit came with a spring that is treaded on one end and straight bar on the other end. What's this for? My 1" kit didn' t come with this. Mine didn't come with a spring. Sorry... By Jennifer Haight on November 21, 2015 My 30mm kit also came with this. I assumed it was for turning the lapping bar by drill. Not sure how good of an idea that is... By Wayne on November 19, 2015 You screw it into the end of the lapping bar. Then you hookup your hand drill to the other end. Make the work much easier. By Rudy Sandoval on July 23, 2017 I just got mine this morning and I also got the spring. My 1 inch set there was no spring. Ive already used my 30 mm kit with spring and drill, this is much better way to go. easy as can be. For you guys that never receiver the would call Wheeler and ask for one. By Samuel Kissel on April 13, 2018 You tape it to the side of your scope and use it to measure windage By John L on November 19, 2015

I don't see an uneven gap on mine, but I may not know what I'm suppose to be looking for. Thanks for telling me what you've experienced. Now that you mention it, the same kit (mfg # 633266) does not show the spring drill adapter, nor is it listed as an item shipped on Amazon, Optics Planet or Wheeler's own web site. I wonder if its something special just for Brownells? And it's only shown with the 30mm kit.

Couldn't hurt was what I was thinking. The torquing screw driver (1in/lbs to 50in/lbs) won't be here for 3 or so more days. I was thinking of ordering this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/scope-alignment-rods/scope-ring-alignment-and-lapping-kit-prod126532.aspx It's just under $50. The videos I've watched show people lapping rings. The amount of contact before lapping seems to be in the 20 to 50% range. I've never done this before. The Hi-Lux scope/mount I have on her now is all one unit. All I had to do was tweak it alittle to get is plumb. I think I will order it. I should learn how to do this. It doesn't look complicated. It's coming from Brownells, so whats another 10 days or so. Thanks. '

I received my Vortex mount yesterday. I just finished .... I guess you could call it dry fitting the mount and scope to the rifle. Just loosely attached to make sure I had the height, eye relief correct and all that good stuff before i started truly mounting it. As I was thinking through the steps I needed to take to mount the scope, I started to wonder if anyone reams their one piece mounts as they might a set of rings. Do any of you ream your one piece mounts?

That’s a great bumper sticker! I ordered this Vortex mount. https://www.opticsplanet.com/vortex-precision-qr-extended-cantilever-mount.html?_iv_cant=20-moa&_iv_code=VX-MT-DF42-CM-530-20

At the end, why was the officer trying to holster his weapon? Why would he want to go hand to hand? I think I hear the officer on the ground saying "He's (going or getting?) my gun!"just before the second officer shots the knife holder. I don't mean this to be critical, I just don't understand that action. I'm hoping someone who's been there can explain what they think may have been going through his mind.

Like others, I was wondering why anyone would ask for clarification on things that seemed to be settled or ignored. Then it hit me. I wonder if the Jackwad letter writer is a liberal that just discovered something called a "determination letter". That has the potential to be a powerful tool in the anti-2nd amendment arsenal. It also occurred to me that I need to spend more time poking around the BATF web's site. I don't even know if inquiry/asking for clarification letters and their responses are published. Don't feel bad. When I first read the headline, I also saw the word "AIR".

Let me see if I understand this. This is an AR Pistol. Its legal as is, because its a pistol. If I add a fore grip, it becomes a NFA item, because it is meant to be fired with 2 hands. This pistol is also GTG because it has a brace, not a stock. This pistol now has become a NFA item because it has a "grip" on the rail. That means it's meant to be fired with 2 hands, so it no longer a pistol. This pistol has a folding brace, but no vertical fore grip, so its still GTG. I can't find a picture of the above with a fore grip. But if I add a fore grip to the above, it becomes a AOW, and NFA item. Are my assumptions correct?

It finally arrived, 7-3-2019. Primary Arms 3-18X50 FFP with Athena BPR “meal” Reticle. Now I have to decide on a mount. I’m taking Blue109’s advice he gave Shepp a few years ago. I’m going to use spacers to determine the aprox height and eye relief I need.

Sisco asked a few questions that haven’t been answered yet. I think they were important. He asked about the barrel profile. Incase you didn’t understand the term, I’ll take a stab at it. To keep it simple, here are 3 examples. Heavy profile: the barrel doesn’t taper (the barrel doesn’t narrow) from the chamber to the muzzle. It’s very thick and weighs a lot. The barrel remains very accurate because it takes longer to heat. Medium profile: there is a taper or narrowing from the chamber to the gas block. Forward of the gas block the remaining portion of the barrel is thin. This profile saves weight. It will be less accurate with the same number of rounds through it when compared to a Bull barrel, but it will remain accurate longer than the last example, a Pencil barrel. Thin (Pencil) barrel: it tapers from the chamber to the gas block and is very thin for the remainder of the barrel. It is a light weight barrel. Many hunters prefer it for that light weight. It’s accurate for the first handful of shots but it heats up rapidly and looses accuracy. Measurements of your barrels would be great but, if that’s not possible, a guesstimate of the profile would really help. 2nd: he asked about the accuracy between the rifles with the free floating and the non-free floating hand guards. My guess is the free floating is more consistently tighter with group size than the non- free floated. ie, At 600 yards, when hot, the free floated opens up to, let’s say 8 inches whereas the non opens up to, say, 10 inches. Is this correct? 3rd: you stated your rate of fire was faster than it should be. Please give us another guesstimate. 1 round per second, 1 round every 15 seconds, 1 round a minute? Just go from memory. This isn’t a morality question. There is no right or wrong, good or bad answer. The answer along with the barrel profile will give us some idea how fast the barrel is heating. Final few points. As many others have stated, the higher the quality of the ammo, the more consistent it will be. At 600 yards, you’re at the upper end of the mid range and entering into long rang shooting. The difference between 0.900 inches and 1.200 inches at 100 yards doesn’t look like much to the naked eye. At 600 yards, yea, it’s huge. All those little things at 100 yards that don’t seem to make a difference are suddenly very big things at 600 and beyond. The last final point... He’s absolutely right, a PA-10 barrel is .... adequate at best. Sorry this was so long, but I had to get it out there. I wish you the best of luck