Robocop1051

Besides BARFcom, I'm seeing an increased acceptance to this build. Lots of support popping up in random places. I think the "positive" and "negative" opinions are still out numbered by the "WTF is that thing?!?" group. <lmao>

If I was going to war, inserting myself into a live-fire situation on a daily basis, I'd probably pick an Aimpoint (or an ACOG). They are all NV compatible, built beyond super rugged and the battery life is unparalleled. For everything else (hunting, plinking, home defense, Law Enforcement) I highly recommend the EOTech. Give me the HHS, and I would finish out the rest of my career with it on my rifle. (The EXPS series has an 8hr shut off) The T1/H1 is a great run-n-gun piece when saving weight, but the Aimpoint reticle is still just a dot (a big FAT dot).

Yeah, but then his Slash heavy buffer (that cost an ass load of $$$) sits on a shelf collecting dust. :P :thefinger: <laughs>

First you buy an A1 buffer tube.... I think I have an extra I could be persuaded to part with, if you have trouble finding one. Second, Jgun is right, you need one of THESE. Last part, you can use your carbine buffer and buffer spring you bought from Slash. Saves you a lot of money, and no extra parts. <thumbsup>

I have two things to point out... 1. That is a damn nice rifle <thumbsup> 2. I think Matt is off the hook for having the nicest hands. Wash just took the cake with his fancy manicure. You're a "sensitive" man, and I won't judge you. Nice gun, nice hands... They work well together!

Mega Mono rails do not cover the gasblocks of their respected length. The rifle length is built to work with a standard A2 FSGB. I recently ordered the Mega Mono mid length, with the mid length MTS piston set.

That car is an eye sore. I can't believe you even own such a thing. Let me do you a huge favor... PM me your address and I'll come over and take that monstrosity off your hands. I'll make sure you never have to worry about that thing wasting your garage space ever again. <laughs>

I wish I had the disposable income to build rifles and then just beat the crap out of them for informational purposes.

Supposedly YHM is going to take care of me <dontknow> we'll see how that goes on Monday. The barrel I have right now is a 16" carbine fluted (more like scalloped) M4 cut barrel with 1/2x36 threads. I just found out last night that it IS chrome lined, contrary to what I was told when I first bought it. Personally I prefer that it has the chrome, due to the amount of corrosive 7.62x39 ammo out there. If it ends up that the barrels are fine, I think I'll invest in a complete PWS (or Armalite, if I can find one) 7.62x39 BCG. I scored a reliable contact at PWS, and I want to see if it comes through for me. The guy at the shop tried to point out that my bolt may also have the wrong extractor installed (5.56 instead of 7.62). I find it hard to accept since I just had the entire bolt inspected and refurbished by MGI Military last week. If I get up and running on everything else, but find that I'm now having issues in that catagory, I know Armalite has a 7.62x39 specific extractor on their website. This very well may be the last 7.62x39 build I ever do... What a PITA this has been.

The 512 uses two AA batteries, and has the controls on the rear of the unit. The 516 uses two CR123 batteries, and has the controls on the side of the unit. (Shorter than the 512) The 517 uses two AA batteries, and has the controls on the side of the unit. (Same size as 512) Don't be surprised if the 510 and 550 series halo sights go extinct in the near future. It looks like EOTech is focusing a lot more attention on the XPS Series lately. Especially with the recent price drop on 512's. I am personally a fan of 1 and 2 MOA dots. I'd like to try the 2-dot version, just to see what kind of drop it marks.

A little update... I ducked out of work early to swing by the parts shop before they closed. They took a look and said no problem, YHM has a warranty and they will gladly replace the part. Only problem was he didn't have a replacement in stock. He invited me back on Monday (7/16) to swap out. This is my 7.62x39 build. YHM sells their barrels both plated and not plated. If the new barrel has the same issue as the first (I seriously doubt it will) I'm going back to square one.

The 510 series are perfect for civilian and LE shooters. The 550 series is for night vision use. So unless you plan on using NV scopes, the added feature is worthless. 512's are great stand-alone products. If you plan on adding a magnification too, go with the 517. The side mounted controls are easier to manipulate when the magnification is in place. I load these up with lithium AA batteries and get LOTS of use. I replaced my last set of batteries, not because they were dead, but because I couldn't remember how long ago I had put them in.

Get a starter/center punch... and don't forget the BFH... Trust in your aim and the BFH won't fail. I secure the gasblock in a Brownells Bench Block, then a good hefty swing will usually get the taper pins in 2-3 attempts. Can't be shy with the BFH!

Nope. Against my better judgement I got a YHM barrel. They were just the only barrels I could find at the time and get immediately. The bolt is made by MGI Military. I'm going to contact the place I bought the barrel (it's a local store, and I have a decent relationship with the owner) and see if I can get the barrel replaced. If that works, I'm back in action. Otherwise I'll be contacting someone with a reamer. There is a shop just outside my beat, at work. I'll try to contact them this afternoon too.

Steel, not plated. It can be reamed, I'm just not looking forward to it.

I actually think I know what I have to do, but I don't have the tools or the energy to do it right now. :rant2:

Welcome Big O! The decision from a M1A to a 308AR is a hard one. I can't say you made the right choice, but you did make a damn good one <thumbsup>. I'm sure the guys here are more than ready to help instigate and coerce you into burning away all your hard earned money for more toys and accessories.

Installed a new barrel... Got a new bolt to go with it... Built up a new upper... Everything looks right on the visual inspection, and the function check appears to be OK too... Broke out the headspace gauges to double-check everything out... No-Go Gauge in... Bolt will NOT close... Lookin' good so far. Go Gauge in... Bolt still will NOT close??? Weird, but not a deal breaker. Dropped in an empty casing... BOLT STILL WILL NOT LOCK CLOSED... WTF!?!? Probably not the safest thing to do, but I fed in a live round from a magazine. Nothing too fast. Still won't close all the way. Not even with a little "persuasion". Anyone have some good idea's on remedies for this? I obviously need to increase headspace, but I'm not sure how I should go about it.

The industry standard school of thought is; 18" to 600 yards, 20" to 800 yards, 22" to 1000 yards. That being said... A 16" barrel will reach 1,000 yards, but it will lack the velocity to do much once it gets there. That will also attribute to a loss of accuracy. I believe, if you buy from a reputable barrel company (ie; Satern, Rock Creek, Lothar Walther, Criterion, Kreiger, etc.) you will get a lot more out of your barrel than you expect. A shorter bull barrel (.936+) will out perform a longer barrel of the same contour, out to it's maximum range. For example, my .308 is a 17" heavy contour (.875) stainless steel Satern with 1:10 twist, and a carbon fiber wrap. I will put that barrel up against any other barrels of similar design out to 600, maybe even 800, yards. That being said, if your ultimate goal is to ring steel at 1,000 yards, I would look towards a decent 20" heavy or bull barrel. If you're dead set on the 18" you will definitely need a bull barrel... Either way, those bastards are HEAVY chunks of steel and should run in the $500-$600 range.

I just ordered the NiB mono mid-length upper for a 5.56 race gun. The entire gun is NiB/Stainless. It is definitely going to be BIG PIMPIN! But that's what racing is all about. I have a NiB upper on my .308 from SI-Defense, but it's not monolithic.

Is this the black version or the new NiB one??

A rotary engraving machine isn't all that expensive anymore. Maybe $4k-$5k now... Or a Laser engraver for $7k-$8k... Have you tried Harford Engraving Service yet? I know they sell AR15/Glock/1911 parts already. They also say they do custom work, or at least they used to. Maybe you can work out an ongoing P.O. with them???

If the dust cover is really tight, and requires an unusual amount of force to open, it might be slowing your bolt down just enough to prevent a full extraction. Check the latching part of the dust cover. You may need to work it a bit, so it wears in. A little silicone and/or polishing to the inside of the top of the ejection port can't hurt... if done in moderation. My Mega Ambi Billet was the same at first. After a hundred or so rounds, it loosened up and disappeared.

Stop sending the whole picture. Just send them a picture of the big brick handguard/weight/cover portion.

Maybe it's just mine. My Troy's are tighter than airport security during Romadan. The lock is no joke either. I can't deploy my sights without taking the rifle from my shoulder. I have multiple sets of MBUS that just snap into position with the press of a button. I have an older ARMS rear sight that has a similar spring loaded function. I absolutely love that feature. I'm not selling my Troys any time soon. But I think all te companies have something to learn from each other.