Robocop1051

I practice wrong like it's a religion ;D

I'm not going to call you "Gecko45" anytime soon... But this may be one of those situations of 'if you have to ask...???' Believe me, I've seen a lot worse. About 2.5mil people live near me, and we all share three shooting ranges. Eventually you will see some crazy stuff. Putting that stuff on to shoot is fine. If you get up from your shooting bench wearing a tactical pirate patch and tactical hobo gloves, you may very well get an odd look from the good ol' boys standing nearby.

Tax season is near, and I'm one of those guys that looks forward to his return every year. I see an Aimpoint T1 in my near future. I also see a scope on the horizon. My heart is torn between a Nightforce 2.5-10x32 or the I.O.R. Valdada "Spartan" 2-12x36. The Valdada just seems like more scope for the bucks... And they cost a LOT of bucks. Any of you guys expecting goodies from Uncle Sam's refund this year?

. Alongside a .308 would be nice.

HDWarlord is GTG!!! Mag's received! Thread locked

I'm not a Glock fan, but that doesnt cloud my judgement on their quality. My personal gripe is their ergonomics. That being said, they shoot like laser beams and they shoot every time! While I personally prefer my 1911, I wouldn't turn down reinforcement from a guy toting his Glock. We had a few guns marked for destruction so we put them through our own special LE torture test. Drilled a handful of 1/4" dowel rods into a board and slid the pistol barrels over them, so all the pistols were lined up equally. Then we nailed that board down at about 50 yards and let the snipers have at them with a Rem 700 in .308 All the pistols took one shot and exploded... Except the Glock. The Glock got hit high on the frame, just below the slide. The 168gr bullet passed right through. A function check of the Glock showed it still worked (we didn't actually test fire). After the shock wore off we shot it a second time, in the slide, and got the expected results.

At the very least, maybe it'll inspire Armalite to build a polymer mag.

NO! NO!! NO!!! NO!!!! NO!!!!! on the CAA. I don't like to push my personal opinions on people, especially when it comes to a rifle. In this occasion I think I am saving you from wasting money on an inferior product. I have used both, and there is absolutely no comparison in quality. To give a small example; I know a dealer who bought 5 of the CAA stocks the week they were first released.... He still has four of the original five, and the one he sold he had to sell for cost. He has them priced $5 under what he paid for, and they still won't move. The Magpul PRS uses the standard Magpul polymer that they use on everything. I believe they also add weights inside, to counterbalance the average "sniper-type" weapon they put on. The CAA is plastic. Poor Q.C. and molding left sharp edges and "flashing" (that's where the plastic seeped between cracks in the mold) everywhere on the gun. I could bend and flex the stock with my bare hands. The bolts and knobs you see on a PRS, are all metal. The CAA is plastic on plastic, with a few metal screws to hold it together. A two dimensional image makes the CAA look phenomenal, but once you put one in your hands you will recognize the lack of quality. In the end, as I always say, don't let my biased opinion change your build. I just ask, please please please do more research than some E-window shopping. Get to a gun store or a gun show and try one of the CAA stocks out before you buy.... If you can't find a piece to play with, that should be a clear sign that no one is buying these for a reason.

What calibers will be available? Standard .308? Or more exotic? Forget those ARF guys. There's a reason we all sought refuge here.

Oh I see the problem now, your gun is made of plastic! <laughs> I have to give credit where it is due. Even with a spring malfunction, no FTF or FTE. That's pretty nice.

I measured my two Battlecomp's. The BABC is 2-9/16" and the v1.5 is 2-1/8".. My 14.5" barrel with the crush washer and the v1.5 is 16-1/16" Comparing the two comps, if the v1.5 adds 1-9/16" to the OAL, simple math says the BABC should add 1-15/16" to your barrel. Whoever told you 13.7", might be wrong, or they weren't counting the barrel threads. I wouldn't go under 14". At worst you might be 1/4"-3/8" too long, but believe me that's much better than being too short. Don't take my word as gospel, just be cautious. I haven't installed my BABC yet, so I can confirm how much it exactly adds to the OAL.

So are we <laughs>

Sorry, no can do. The lower is completed and the upper has all the small parts installed. I can say that my SI-D .308 weighed nearly as little as my Mega Arms billet AR-15. Although, the Mega was on the heavier side for a .223/5.56

1. I use "hand tight", then wrench it no more than 1.5 holes. Meaning; If you are almost to the next hole, pass it up and go to the second hole. That's a fair, poor-man's, torque wrench. You can go as high as 80-90 lbs on a decent receiver, with no issues. The problem that arises when you apply too much torque is that supposedly the pressure put on the barrel nub, from the notch in the receiver, causes the barrel to stress upwards... In theory <dontknow> ... I would be more worried about stressing the threads too much and caused cracks (and eventually breaking) at the most important portion of the rifle. 2. "Tactical" or "[glow=green,2,300]Tacti-Cool[/glow]"? I'm sure everyone in the world will agree that Noveske Rifleworks makes one of the most renown "tactical" rifles used today... All of their barrels are stainless. Need I say more? If you have one of the polished stainless barrels, and you think that look is too flashy, trying dulling it up with some steel wool first. Some WD40 and a thorough rub down will put a dull sheen on that shine. ***Disclaimer: Don't let anyone here tell you how you "have" to make your rifle. In the end, none of us are shooting it and none of us are paying the bill. The reason you picked the AR format rifle is for the customization of it. Make it however you like, and be 100% satisfied with the fact that it was exactly what YOU wanted. When the time comes, Man Law requires you show us lots of pictures of your masterpiece <thumbsup>

That sonuvabitch has all the best toys! :o

There's no law, I'm aware of, that says short barrels are illegal. It's just illegal to have them on a rifle. It's not contraband. It's the combination of rifle + short barrel. You can order them from whoever you please. Then assemble in the easiest manner possible. As long as the upper is not attached to a rifle, you should be ok. The idiot factor comes present when people own short barrel uppers and store them in the same case as their lower receivers. Whatever you decide to do, do it safely and responsibly. No one should be hassling you otherwise.

Yes. A "rifle" must have a barrel at least 16" in length, or be registered as a "short barrel rifle". Welding, by simple definition, is to make two pieces of metal into one piece of metal. Thus, if you weld a barrel device to a barrel (turning two pieces into one) you change the overall length of that barrel. I'm just suggesting you do it last, instead of first.

I heard this a lot when I started my build. People asked me if it was worth all I spent when I bought lightweight parts. My explanation is, if I save only 1oz. at a time, but I save it on 16 different parts... then I am still 1 pound lighter than where i would have been. In the end, all those 1oz parts add up. It also afforded me the ability to buy sturdier parts that may have been 1 or 2 oz heavier than a standard part (like my stainless BCG). Lightweight is nice, but reliability costs lives.

I use a SI-Defense stainless steel bolt catch. The are threaded and come with a stainless steel pin. I have to warn, as far as bolt catches go they are on a bit of the pricey side. The nice thing is that they are designed for the .308, and they are Sexy stainless steel :drool:

I'm still trying to figure, why must the barrel device be installed first??? All this trouble is alleviated if it is installed last. If this is a "legal" issue... technically an upper receiver assembly is not a functioning firearm, without a lower receiver attached to it. The way I see it, as long as you keep the upper in a non-firing condition you should be on the green side of the law Don't take my word as gospel. That is my California LEO way of looking at things, and your particular state may view things very differently. I know a lot of guys who buy/own "pistol" uppers and never had any issues with them.

I see a need for unions when dealing with tyrant employers. If the employers are fair, then I see no reason for the unions... Lest they become tyrants in the absence of opposition. I'm the VP of our union, and I wish everyday that we weren't needed. If Colt is bringing good jobs and willing to take care of their employees, then I wish them all the best.

DANGER CLOSE!! I just got an update from Josh Sonju at SI Defense. My "shot peened" NiB bolt is finished :banana: and ready for shipping. I also picked up a stainless NiB barrel extension while I was at it. (still waiting in line for my stainless NiB bolt carrier) I also just finished talking with Mike Degerness Jense Precision/XPA and my carbon fiber wrapped barrel is nearing completion... Pending the delivery of the bolt. Nice thing about these two is SI-D and Jense Precision are only 17 miles apart from eachother!!! <thumbsup> Hopefully the bolt mates well to the barrel and I'm good for the assembly of my upper :sniper:

This might be what Jgun needs to get that 125gr 300Blk upto 2,600fps.

If you can, wait till the last minute to pin/weld your comp to your barrel. It will make things MUCH easier. I have never used a monolithic upper, but I assume that it would be much the same as any other upper. 1. Install barrel to upper receiver a. Use the Mega Arms supplied barrel nut and wrench to secure the barrel to the receiver. 2. Install gas block and gas tube. a. I usually install the gas tube into the gas block first. It helps me line things up later. b. Then I work the gb into place and secure it (taper pin, set screw or clamp) i. This will give you the chance to "fit" your gas block, if needed. ii. Remember to give space for where the handguard cap is supposed to be. iii. If this is a low-pro GB under the handguard, there's usually some kind of relief holes in the handguard to work through. 3. Install comp/brake/hider and crush-washer/shim-washer a. Remember to line up (time) the barrel device before making it permanent. b. **Usually this is only required if your barrel is less than 16". The BABC will add approximately +2" to your barrel length. Like 98Z5V said about the Specter... I also like that particular GB butted right up against the handguard. It gives a very sleek and symetrical taper to the longer barrel/handguard combo.

I wondered that myself... <dontknow>