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This thread just turned a year old - how about you ask your question in it's own thread? Go start a new topic, man. From the looks of your question, it should be asked in the "Want to Buy" section.

And not one picture of any part in their training manual shows you a scuffed up part, man - not one... They show bare metal parts (if they're made of metal), hanging on wire, in prep for paint. Page 7, "properly racked lower receiver," is not a scuffed part, at all - that thing is white. You know that. I don't advocate scuffing the part, in prep for Cerakote - take it down to bare metal, if it's metal. Your finish will last a hell of alot longer if proper surface prep is done.

Those are people that haven't been around the platform for a long amount of time - they don't even know what "normal" looks like, I'd bet. Wish I could show you some upper receiver pics and BCG pics of my old work guns - you'd think they were gonna fall apart, if you didn't know better. No BCG has a smooth surface, after machining. Some coatings cover the machining marks, some don't. Put a new phosphated (dry) BCG into a brand new (dry) upper receiver, and pull the charging handle back - it's like fingers on a chalkboard, and it 110% normal. Don't base what you're reading online as fact, unless you're researching the experience level of the person posting that tidbit of fact... I'm just sayin'...

...and you didn't listen to one sage piece of advice that he gave you. You went on about your way, anyway, after he told you. In what I highlighted, in red... You don't learn from what other people say. That doesn't give you experience. Doing what other people say, and practicing it to the point of proficiency, then failure - that gives you experience. It's pretty easy to see, in the written word, when someone knows what they're talking about - or if they're just repeating something they read. You shoot well enough. Many of the things you say don't jive with that - like you're looking for information, and it's information that you should already know, based on how well you say (and post pictures of) you are shooting. Something about you just doesn't add up...

I don't agree with that ^^^ - take it all the way down to bare metal for the best results.

aluminum oxide, 120. That's what my blast bin is loaded with.

Something you'll notice with NiB coated parts, when you receive them - NiB coating is ALOT thinner than even Phosphate coating. If comes down to painting window frames, in a way - ever have to do that as a kid? Old-skool windows, that had the weights on a string, inside the window frame! <lmao> Strip them down to bare wood, and paint. You put a thin coat on there, and you can still see the grain of the wood. You put that $hit on thick, and it's all smooth - and you can't open the windows. But it's smooth! Phosphate coating covers machining marks, because it goes on thicker. NiB goes on VERY thin. You'll see machining marks that you would have never, ever seen had that thing been phosphated... and it's still the same bolt carrier, or other part. You see something in a Nib carrier, don't worry about it. As long as it's made of good materials, made with the proper processes and techniques, and purchased from a reputable dealer or manufacturer, then you don't have anything to worry about. DId you buy it to look pretty, or did you buy it to function as designed?... <dontknow> <thumbsup>

The Fulton chromed carrier is what I have, and it's nice. That was purchased before all this NiB stuff went crazy. Fulton isn't going to send out a $hit part. I have a Rainier Arms NiB 5.56 BCG, among 4 NiB BCGs, and the Rainier is by far the nicest of the bunch. They don't let $hit get out their door, either.

^^^ Very smart - very good ramp on that, almost like a ramped 9mm bolt carrier. Cuts down on hammer abuse during cycling.

Honestly, if it was mine, I'd just lube the hell out of it (don't forget to lube the buffer and inside the receiver extension - that doesn't need heavy lube). Then I'd take it out and shoot the piss out of it with factory off-the-shelf ammo, be it cheap or match, doesn't matter.

He sells bolts. He sells complete chromed or NiB BCGs, too. He will headspace YOUR bolt if you send it to him - that is something you have to coordinate ahead of time with him, though. NiB BCG, complete, $249: http://www.fulton-armory.com/boltcarriergroupcompletetitanincludesboltcomplete-2.aspx Just the phosphated bolt, complete - $139. Much better deal to get the NiB BCG complete... http://www.fulton-armory.com/bolttitancompleted.aspx

If you buy the bolt at the same time as you're buying the barrel, he headspaces them together. This isn't something special that you have to ask him to do when you order - he automatically does that anytime one is going out the door.

SAAMI is for Maximum Cartridge and Minimum Chamber. Tolerance stacking comes into play, as well as condition of the tools in cutting chambers. That's what you're running into. 308 Winchester SAAMI.pdf

Clint McKee at Fulton has been tuning match rifles and making accurate rifles for alot longer than some of these barrel companies out there. What he knows, and what he does is proven on the national shooting level, for years. You absolutely cannot go wrong with one of his barrels. <thumbsup>

The 18.5" stainless medium-contour Match barrels from Fulton Armory are damn fantastic. <thumbsup> http://www.fulton-armory.com/barrelfatitan185nmmedss1x10936gasblock.aspx

This bad boy right here has my nomination, if you want to stand up to the rigors of military-type abuse - it's strong enough, maybe even overkill: http://www.laruetactical.com/predatobr-18inch THIS ONE... The PredatAR. Personally, this would be as strong as the P-OBR, but the design is just incredible. I'd grab this one, and use the cost difference between it and the P-OBR towards optics: http://www.laruetactical.com/18%E2%80%9D-larue-tactical-predatar-762 Full-on OBR, in 18" or 20" - doesn't get any better, tougher, etc., than that thing.

Stripping it back down isn't going to be any fun. Back in the blaster... Damn, brother. I'll have to look at Dawn Marie's rifle again - her handguard might be a little more shiny than the upper and lower... Now you've got me thinking...

How may of those were .308 ARs?

^^^ Exactly. Call up LaRue, and see what they've got. That PradatOBR would be one hell of a rifle for you.

Not interested in the 300BLK Match, just said I'd used it before. Good luck so far reloading PPU brass - it's great stuff to reload, if you're not converting their .223 Match into 300BLK. Keeping it the same, it's good to reload - and it's damn accurate, no matter what caliber you buy it in. It's been more accurate in some of my 5.56 precision builds than the "super" ammo from US makers. The Fed A-Eagle 168s just shoot damn good, and they're not FGMM priced, but very similar in performance. That's some damn accurate .308 ammo.

I should have mine done on Sunday - 24:1. Going onto the MI T-12 rail - should come out like yours, all things being the same. I'll get pics up here Sunday night of how it turns out.

Vewy!!! :hethan:

How much hardener? What ratio, brother? Dawn's white, I went in between 24:1 for flat, and 18:1 for satin. Mixed right in between for that one. My PB is going on at no more than 24:1, so that thing stays flat.

Don't. Save a little, but don't let the mags stop you, brother. Search out the "factory Ruger GSR mags." Made by Accurate Mag, shipping a 10-rd with every GSR that goes out - if the state allows that. The 10-rounder is the one that is included with the rifle in most places. http://accurate-mag.com/ http://accurate-mag.com/ From ShopRuger direct, they're on the web-store: http://shopruger.com/308-Mag-10-Round-Magazine/productinfo/90353/ That's a good price, and you can find them cheaper when you search the Ruger part number (search "Ruger 90353"). <thumbsup> What always happens when you post something in the internet? You make your discovery, and THAT $HIT GOES OUT OF STOCK. EVERYWHERE. Get 'em while you can, brother. :happydrunks:

I would have been pissed. But, I would have baked that little fucker right into it! <lmao> Knock the parts that are sticking out right off, after it cools! <dontknow> If I paint one of Ron's rifles, it'll show back up with a stamp in the underside... <hump>