98Z5V

There was a thread on ARFCOM about this that I ended up in. It kinda turned into a pissing match of sorts. I'll dig up the details of the receiver heights from that and post them up - one dude on there literally knew everthing about it, much to his credit. Numbers, heights, everything. I'll grab the details.

For me, every single time the 4lb hammer comes out - there's some blood. :o Might be "just a pinch" here or there, but swinging that fat thing into another piece of solid metal almost ALWAYS yields a little blood. If "one whack was enough" I'd never have a problem, but it never is, man. Maybe I need a bigger hammer... ;D

I found some pics of the non-digital newer stuff, but not a full spread. More like a few uniform pics. I'll see if I can find them again and post them into here. EDIT - Scored this website in a search. Seems like the term to search on is "C2G": http://www.uniteddynamics.com/camo/c2g/index.html There are more than 15 others on that website, but they're all in the digitized format. I'll keep looking.

'98 Ram rollin' on a set of 35s. Poor thing has 175k miles on it, and the ball joints have never been replaced, well, before now. That always makes it worse. :-[ Victory was mine, though! Don't think I gave myself another hernia, but it sure wasn't fun anyway. The only real joy in this specific task is the use of a 4lb hammer to separate the steering knuckle from the axle housing. ;D Everything else about it just sucks. Fully disassembled, bad ball joints GONE: New ball joints: So, I drive the '91 Honda Accord this morning, and find out that both front halfshafts are bad, after the boy just took it on a trip from VA to Tennessee to Ohio and back. Sweet... I'll be back at it this afternoon :o

Haha! Well, one of the things I was doing was fighting 12-year old ball joints on a Dodge truck. That's never fun... :o I'm still here, man. :D

ACU and Marine MARPAT? What colors specifically are you looking for?

Welcome aboard!

HAHA! No way, man! ;D I found the main site in a Google search, as DNP (him, mainly) and I were looking into building up some .308s and breaking the "AR-15 norm." As soon as I noticed the forum, I started lurking here, whilst I was frantically ordering parts.

Sizes on these bad boys run true? Do they run small, or large, by size? I'm a 10.5 Regular-footed guy, but in some shoes/boots it ends up being 11. I'll grab some of these once I hear back, man. ;D

Nope, but I wish I did - I'm stripping it and crimping it individually. Got it ran into the house, into the splitters, and have 3 rooms done. The biggest PITA part of it was getting it into the house and split right. I'm damn glad that part is done. I hope to be finished with the rest of it tomorrow. Hoping big. :-\

I'm running cable into another 7 rooms in the house... ::)

That's the one that Magpul sells directly, to go with their PRS. It's the one I've got on my internal wishlist.

From stuff like that ^^^ with DPMS, from several different forum accounts of the long waits, that's the reason I went Fulton on the BCG and barrel. They had the sale in Feb, I ordered on a Friday night, and had the stuff on the following Tuesday. All things considered, I'm damn glad I went that route, too. That barrel shoots! ;D

Haha! Excellent, man, excellent. ;D PP, that PRS stock is sweet, isn't it? I wanted to put one on my 308 initially, but had a spare A2 around that I vowed to try first. So far, I'm liking the A2, so now I'm undecided about getting one for it. I've wanted a monopod for the 20" with PRS for awhile now, but other "gun priorities" keep getting in the way. Now, it's a complete 16" midlength 5.56 build that I just started. One day, one day...

5.56 gun, or .308 gun? If it's the .308, the takedown pin and spring should be under the pistol grip, so shanging the stock will be as easy as removing that top screw.

Yep, just plain old carb cleaner. Tip: I'm a motorcycle mechanic by profession now, and I get my stock of carb and brake cleaners from Wal-Mart. No joke. I buy the Super Tech stuff there for about $1.50 a can. It does the exact same job as a $3.50-a-can stuff from Gunk, CRC Chemicals, Chemtool, Gumout - all of them. It's all the same exact stuff, so don't overpay for a name. Get the cheapest carb cleaner you can, especially if you think you'l be going through alot of it. I use too much of it - as witnessed by my posts, probably. :o Here's an example from amazon. com: http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&rh=n%3A15718991&page=1 Pay about $1.50 for the same thing, man, and hit Wal-mart.

I weighed mine in at 12.52 lbs with scope mounted, and an empty LR-20 mag in it. I'll grab a weight with a full mag.

No way, man - not now! :D

Got out yesterday to the range; it's a completely free "sighting in range" that's owned/run by the Wildlife Management Area, and it's a very nice 100-yard range. Well, right when I got setup with the guns and firing position, some fool with hot loads in a muzzle loader caught the dry grass on the berm on fire... :o We all ran down there and were trying to stomp it out, beat it with shirts, everything. The wind picked up and kept shifting, and just when we'd have a section of it beat, it would flare up again on the other side. It was back and forth like that until the fire dept got there and hosed it down. We all thought they Wildlife Manager was gonna shut it down, but all he did was talk to everybody and let us keep going. For me, it was on the verge of being a bad day, but turned into a great one. I got the .308 finalized at 100 yds. First pic here is the 168gr match boat tails from Mac's Reloads that I picked up. Gonna keep buying them, too. 6 rounds, top three were for group and I dropped two clicks on the scope. Bottom three were after doing that. Here's where it stays, and I re-zeroed the turrets. I took the 14.5" 5.56 gun out there and shot up a bunch. I can get those targets up later, but they're nothing spectacular. Irons and red dot at 50 and 100, and it's a good shooter. Accurate for being fast, if that makes sense. It's zeroed at 100 yards, 3" high from point of aim. Last one up was my old, very reliable Olympic Arms "Politically Correct" M4. I put a CMMG .22 conversion bolt in it and I'm teaching the kids to shoot Evil Black Rifles with it. Of course, I was testing it out myself, first. ;D I zeroed it at first at 50 yards, being skeptical that I'd get a good zero at that range - it's on it! Love this little thing! First target is bullseye point of aim at 50, with shot after shot on it. I did two 5-shot groups with it to adjust the irons, and you can kinda see those on the target. Once I had it where I wanted it, it was blasting time. The second target is at 100, point of aim being the top of the target for a hold over. The thing is a BLAST!!!

Very sweet boomstick!

Oh damn, those are the AR-15 parts - I was thinking it was the .308 parts, man. I saw those prices are FREAKED! :o My fault... :)

Dental picks are great for scraping the carbon deposits and getting that stuff "unstuck." I'll put carb cleaner (or whatever you prefer to use) on the q-tip, and just soak stubborn carbon deposits to soften them up. Attack them with the pick, and it scrapes right off most of the time. Very effective in the front of the bolt carrier once you remove the bolt. Works great around the tail of the bolt, too (but sometimes I'll wear that stuff down with a brass brush). The picks are perfect for getting into the chamber and scraping away the buildup in the corners/edges of it. I've seen long pipe cleaners somewhere before. If I can find the link or source, I'll post it up here. I don't worry about the gas tube that much - IMHO, once the gasses are moving through there with force, you get most of the buildup where the gasses would turn a corner, or come to a stop. Most of the hard deposits build up in the carrier key, around the bolt tail, and in the front of the carrier.

Dental pics, pipe cleaners, stripped down q-tips... and lots of carb cleaner. The dental pics are a life saver in the bolt carrier and chamber. Pipe cleaners work great going up through the bolt, all the way through the bolt face. Sometimes, the stripped down q-tips (pull off most of the fuzz) can help in the bolt, and everywhere else in general. I'll let the parts air dry so I can see that carb cleaner film (whitish), then use q-tips with CLP to oil everything back up. EDIT - Militarily, my unit always had a solvent tank right there at the arms room - I LOVE using the solvent tank and brush to clean these things. I'd do that all day long on the work guns, but I don't know if I'd do it on my own guns... ;D

Certainly! If you need a spec list, or any other pics, just let me know what you'll need and I'll try to grab it.

For curiousity's sake, what was the per-item cost on those things? I know I got my small parts for my stripped upper straight from DPMS, and the prices weren't too bad. I've been thinking of picking up one of each of what you listed.