98Z5V

I'll be honest with you - this is starting to get quite difficult, with this. Several detailed things have been asked of you, that should be simple, and we're not getting the direct answers to the direct questions that have already been asked. We're literally starting to waterboard you for pertinent information. My patience with that will run thin, and I'll blow this thread off. Completely. We're trying to help - you're not giving us the level of information that's required to help you solve your gun problem, over the internet. There's a reason we have these standards in place, and that reason is to be able to fix guns, over the internet, from written words and possibly pictures, from the person with the gun problem. No other place online will be able to solve this problem for you. Nowhere. This is the place to fix it, and fix it right. But we need your help in that. I hope that makes sense, and you understand that. What exactly happens, with one round in the magazine, when you fire the gun? Does the bolt lock back? I don't see how it mechanically can lock back, from one round in the mag, from the pics of the bolt face on the bolt catch.

For Roman @sketch... Love you, Bro. 🥰 Proof Of Life...

Is this after a one-round shot, or is this from you locking the bolt to the rear? To me, from this pic, it doesn't even look like the bolt catch will touch the follower in the magazine, on the last round, to move the bolt catch up and lock the bolt back. Hell, the little "tang" on that bolt catch barely looks like it extends to the edge of the magazine, let alone be long anough for the follower in the mag to push it up. You stated you got three magazines with it, and you were asked what brand of magazines you were running. The answer was "the 3 that came with it." That's not a brand of magazine. Who's mags are these? Who makes them. This is turning into Waterboarding. I'm just sayin'. We're having to extract information from you, in order to solve your problem - and we've given you the template that lists the amount of necessary information that needs to be provided to solve this kind of issue. Please, even if it seems silly, oblige. Help us help you here. Before going any further here, please confirm that you've read this thread right here, and understand it. Not trying to be insulting - trying to help you... Read this and then confirm that you've read and understand it - this picture below is an actual link to a thread we have here - click the picture, and the thread will automatically open:

The opposite of both those statements is true, as well. You decrease dwell time - go to a shorter barrel, same gas system length, same journal size - then you need to increase gas port diameter. You go UP in caliber, all things being equal, then you need to go up in gas port diameter, to a certain extent. Caliber plays a definite role in this, because of barrel wall thickness - but caliber isn't the first thing you need to look at to figure out a proper gas port diameter. Based in this information, my 18" rifle gas 7mm-08 barrel with a 0.750" journal will need a gas port that's right around 0.090", in order to function with a recoil system that's designed for large frame ARs, and in order to balance the two systems. We'll see where it's at when the barrel gets here. I'm pretty sure I'll be drilling it up.

I love this thread already...

A 15" gas tube is rifle length gas tube. 8" from the end of the barrel makes sense, for a 22" barrel. If it was a 20" rifle gas barrel, that gas port needs to be 6.875" from the very end of the barrel. Or it's made wrong.

18" rifle gas .308 Win barrels with 0.750" journals need right at 0.095" gas ports. 20" rifle gas .308 Win barrels with 0.750" journals need around 0.090" gas ports. It's a range of about 0.005" of a window that will get you running right. I list the number in the middle. A 22" rifle gas .308 Win barrel with a 0.750" journal would need a gas port about 0.085". You increase dwell time, then you need to decrease gas port diameter. You go down in caliber, you go down in gas port size. My 20" rifle gas .260 Rem barrel is 2 caliber sizes away from .308 Win, has a 0.750" journal, and runs a gas port diameter of 0.080" You're pretty far away from .308". About 5 caliber sizes away. With that barrel combination, I'm seriously estimating that you'd need a gas port around 0.060" for that barrel config and caliber. There's no shrinking the gas port diameter, so it's time to buy a good adjustable gas block. You're gonna need it. Recoil system definitely needs addresses, and corrected, in order to run the gas port diameters that I suggest. Recoil system has to be straight first - but both systems also need to be balanced. Now, here's what I think is going on with your gun... That thing is a speed demon. That BCG is hauling some serious ass, because it's WAY overgassed, AND it's under-recoiled. I'll bet that's the H1 buffer in there, at 3.8oz, and that doesn't belong in a large frame at all. You need an H3 buffer (5.4oz, or as close to it as you can get) to control the ass and mass of the large-frames, when under recoil. So, you're way overgassed, it's under-recoiled, the BCG is just screamin' inside that upper. It's going so fast that the bolt catch can't catch it and lock it back, and it's going so fast that it's not stripping the next round - the Mag spring can't get it up there in position fast enough for the bolt face to grab it. Best buffer to get easily is the KAK Shorty heavy buffer, which comes in at 5.3oz. It's easy to get. Best overall buffer to get is one from Clint at HeavyBuffers.com. The one you'd want is the first one on this page linked below, comes in at 5.5oz - it's the CAR-10 Buffer: https://heavybuffers.com/ar10carbine.html That's my honest assessment, and opinion...

I'm working on a number for the gas port diameter that should work. What's the length and weight of that buffer? It has to be 2.500" long, and I'm betting it weighs 3.8oz. Need confirmation. You're going to need a Sprinco Orange spring for the proper recoil spring on large-frames running the 7.000" extension.

I have a video, brother... It is alive and well... Testing loads. All loads need to go up. Great data today, and we'll use it all. Vid soon. Until then...

No worries = that's literally why we're here. With the info, we can get this gun running.

Good. What's the internal depth of your receiver extension? Not the overall length, the internal depth. It's either gonna be 7.000" internal or it's gonna be 7 5/8" internal, or it's manufactured wrong. 6 15/16" is a very acceptable answer, if that's the case. Next, after that answer, do you have any AR15 adjustable carbine buffers that you can configure to 5.4oz (H3 weight), and either an Armalite EA-1095 spring or a Sprinco Red spring? This will make a functional recoil system, IF they're installed inside a receiver extension that's 7 5/8" internal depth. You install a recoil system identical to what I described, and function test your gun and tell me what's happening - and I can tell you if your gas system is gonna need work. Of course, I'll need all the specs on your barrel, in order to do that. I need to know that your gas block journal diameter is, what your gas PORT diameter is, what gas system you're running (it's either midlength, rifle, or some weird rifle+2" system). I need to see a pic of how far your gas tube protrudes into your upper receiver, with your BCG out, to verify how far it reaches into the cam pin cutout in the upper receiver... ^^^ You get that information into this thread, and I can make your gun run. I guarantee you that. This is the level of detail we're talking about. This is why we have the Waterboarding thread in the first place - we have to sometimes waterboard people to get the pertinent details out of them... It can get frustrating, from our side...

The only company that I know of that ever pulled off a functional 22-250 complete gun, right from the factory, was Olympic Arms.

You either have a gas system issue, or a recoil system issue, or a feeding issue (and that's magazines). This is gonna come down to one of those 3 things, or a combination. Gonna need those technical gun specs that have been requested of you, per the details in the waterboarding thread that was linked above. Read that thread first, so you can see the amount of detail necessary to diagnose a gas gun functional issue over the internet.

Want GoPro?...

Ohio Ordnance Works, brother! I've been watching that thing for years...

Hop a flight, brother. Me and @JBMatt are heading out around 0800 local time. I think we're ready...

Someone is shooting some 500BLK in the morning. Well, I'll bet that's the case, anyway. I'm just sayin'...

Thank you, Rob... @Robocop1051 Someone guess what's going on here...

You bastards! It's Christmas, for God's sake!

Perfect.

That's badass, Rene! Thanks for finding and posting that one! That's tough to pull off, back to back to back like that. Fuckin' AWESOME! That kid is gonna fast track, for sure. Pulling that off as a PFC means immediate promotion to Specialist. As soon as he's eligible for the Sergeant promotion board (in the Secondary Zone), he hits the board, and is automatically promoted a couple months later, to Sergeant, regardless of posted cutoff points. The tab gives him that.

Merry Christmas, fellas. Honored to know you, I mean that. Seriously.

Brother! You got the book?! I've read that thing 5 times, love it.

I have a Mk18 RIS II Rail on a 14.5" pinned gun. That's my HD gun, my go-to carbine, above all other guns. It's the ARFCOM first series receiver, that was the licensed reproduction of the MagPul receiver, and I got in right away, and got a low serial number. ARFCOM ended up having 3 versions, I think I recall, and they kept changing things for the worse. The first series was tits. I'll pick up one of the RIS III rails, in the 12-ish inch version, and build another HD gun. If I can find the DD 14.5" CHF barrel, I'll get that, too. Quality rail, all the way. The new gun going around this rail will probably be on Noveske receivers - but I have a hard time ignoring the pure sexiness of Aero's M4E1 receivers...