98Z5V

For some reason, I can't find this rifle on Bergara's website - do you have a picture of it, or could you post a link to it?

^^^ This one is by far the best one out there, by the way. I've broken many over the years. But I haven't broken this one yet, and I've had it for years now. It has my full support.

That's cute. How do you do at that distance? Is that meters or yards? Buy your ammo, or do you load it yourself?

What distance do you shoot your .300 Win Mag? What's the load that you use? EDIT - sorry, you said "real distance." What's "real distance?"

Why yes, yes I have. In spades...

Still thinking about that gas port question? You're not gonna find the answer on the internet...

Never stated that at all - no matter what you insinuate. Oh, I can't fly, either. Nor teach people to fly. Wouldn't attempt it. If I didn't know shiit about gas-operated ARs, I wouldn't be on an AR board fixing guns, either... you should take your own criticism in that realm.

Off the top of your head, no time to waste - what should the gas port diameter be on a 22" rifle gas barrel, with an Armalite AR-10 gas system, and a 0.875" gas block diameter? The answer is easy - if you know what recoil system to run.

Everything you posted is from the 'net. Post from your BRAIN. Let's have this discussion. Not copy/paste bullshiit from you. Someone else "fixed your gun" with a fucked up, short incorrect buffer spring. Now, you know everything - they sold you on that, apparently, because they had to send you a bunch of stuff on it. And you bought it.

You sure attempted to - told him he needed a 9.3/4" spring, and it would all be good. Tell me you didn't state that, directly.

No, you aren't COMPETENT. <<< That's how you spell it. You had to have someone else "fix" your gun for you.

You, are a complete idiot. Well done.

You are an idiot. You're just copying and pasting anything you can find on the internet - yet, you're so smart, and know all this... then why did someone else figure out your gun for you, and you're going to sick them on us... Read this - I wrote this myself. Didn't copy it and paste it from around the web. There are alot more than that. Rifle buffers for AR15s, Rifle buffers for .308 ARs, RIfle buffers for Rock River Arms LAR-8 varients, Carbine buffers that are 3.250 long, 2.500" long, and again, for Rock River Arms LAR-8 guns - do you know how long those carbine buffers are? I do. VLTOR A5 buffers, 9mm buffers... the list goes on.

You are correct on oil - as we preach here time and time again. For break-in. Not for normal operation. You are very, very INCORRECT on your spring length of 9 3/4. So, any spring 9.3/4" is gonna work? Factory buffers, if they're not 5.4oz, are not enough for a large-frame AR, unless it's a race gun tailored for a specific load, and only that load. If your factory gun has anything less than a 5.4oz buffer, then other compromises were made to the gas system (first), and the rest of the recoil system (second)_ In that order. To make the gun CHEAPER.

Wow... Gas block? Really? Did you see the rest of the spring info I linked to you in that chart? I don't think you even looked at the chart, once you opened the webpage. It would surprise me if you knew what you were looking at in the first place. Do a little research, you say. You have any idea how much research I've done on this in the past 12 years, and tested? Tell those people that fixed your rifle to sign right up on here and I'll have a discussion with them - you obviously won't be the one that carries on an intelligent conversation about the details of this platform.

The front isn't a Delta ring - it's a handguard cap. Yes, it might work - with the correct handguard cap. You'll be the guinea pig for A1 handquards, as far as reported here, on a .308AR. This is a barrel nut/delta ring assembly: The front that holds the handguards is just a "handguard cap." Pics were provided above, with what fits what - be careful of what you buy,

Lots of comments on that KAK buffer here, and it's a common recommendation for Carbine extensions that are 7.000" internal depth, and coupled with the Sprinco Orange spring. It's good to go.

Next couple days, I'll dig out the 3~18 on the Mk12, and line it up beside this newer 4~16. When I put that 3~18 on there, I did notice that it was longer than the older 4~14 that I was running. I'm betting that the 3~18 and the new 4~16 are pretty close in overall length.

You are pushing bad, incorrect information out to people. Completely. This is the best reference you'll ever find, for correct spring dimensions. https://heavybuffers.com/reference.html

The elusive blue translucent Lancer 30s. Oh, I have the purple, red and orange ones, too.

Biggest changes in the hardware - 4~14 had the elevation and windage knobs, other side of the gun was parallax adjustment - the illum setting knob was on the back, about 10 o'clock. The new 4~16 has the elevation and turret knobs, opposite side it a dual knob, inner ring is the parallax adj, outer ring is the illum. This is identical to the 3~18 scope setup, that I put on the Mk12 Mod 1 a year ago. The focus ring us a HUGE improvement, glad to see that it made it to this scope, too. They changed some things - for the WAY Mo' Bettah. Slick new design on the budget scopes, that can't be beat for the price. The 4~14 used to list at $279, the new 4~16 lists for $299 - it's worth the slim $20, for what they changed. I think, over time, they'll crush the whole 4~14 line, and move them to this design. They dropped this one first, with the ACSS HUD DMR Reticle. Very well worth it.

So, I've had many of the Primary Arms 4~14 FFP scopes on many rifles, and if it's 5.56 guns or .308 guns, I go for the ACSS HUD DMR reticle, in the .308 Win model. There's a 5.56 model, but that BDC is set around 55gr ammo. The .308 model is specifically set for 168gr .308 Win ammo, which is damn near identical to 1000 yards to 75gr 5.56 that's going at least 2750fps. For real, 168gr .308 has 399 inches of drop at 1k yards. 75gr Hornady 5.56 going 2750fps has 4 more inches of drop at 1k yards. The ACSS HUD DMR scope for .308 is the one to use, if you're running 5.56 heavies. I was running the 4~14 scope on the gun that I run in the matches, but I just wanted better glass, so I moved to the 3~18 PA scope, with the same reticle - that thing gets it done, all the way around. The reticle works great for multiple targets, multiple distances, when you have up to 12 targets, and 90 seconds, and a 20-round limit. I'll never turn back. However, I needed another 4~14 ACSS HUD DMR scope for Kimmy's gun - and it's been on backorder forever. They finally announced that they were making a new scope, this time, it's 4~16, and many of the improvements that have come across in the last couple years. In short, they killed the 4~14 ACSS HUD DMR, and it's now the 4~16 ACSS HUD DMR, greatly improved. Initial availability was mid-Aug, so I pre-ordered one, and it came in a few weeks ago. I finally got around to mounting it up on her gun. It's a little longer, I didn't weigh the two because the older one was mounted in a LaRue LT-158 with a Holosun 507C on it. Wasn't taking that scope out of the mount, just to get a weight, when the weights are on the PA website. So, I like it - it's laser boresighted to the 35 yards I can get in my backyard, but I'll still need to zero it for real. That will happen in the next couple weeks, hoping for a temp-drop here soon. The new scope is in a LaRue LT-745 with 10 MOA, and a new Holosun 507C on there. The old setup went straight back on my 16" precision gun, and that sucker got laser boresighted, too. It needs shot, too, again, and tuned up. Busy weekend coming up for both of them -but the next match is this coming Saturday, so that has to wait, for now. Here's the old 16" precision gun, 4~14 back on it, in the LT-158 mount and dot. Just for shiits, I'm shooting the 16" gun in the September match, instead of the Mk12 Mod 1 - just to see how it does out there at distance, and the constraints forced upon us...

3 year search for these things, finally obtained. Never in stock, past 3 years.

I like PMC brass for reloading - what it was. 5.56 gets reloaded for 55gr 5.56 loads. The .308 gets reloaded for 150gr .308 range loads. No issues that way. I tried using PMC Bronze 5.56 to convert to 300BLK brass, and the bases were bulged on the 3rd load of 300BLK. Stick in the die 8 times out of 10 on the 3rd load, so I threw the rest away that I'd cut and converted. For BLK, after that, I only converted LC NATO 5.56 brass, or used real once-fired BLK brass. For sticking to the same cartridge, the PMC brass is still decent - I don't toss it, I do reload it.

If it's a combo, it will. That's what went on all the A2 conversions, back in the day. Look for something like this: A1, only, looks like this: A2, only, looks like this: The combo works with both A1 and A2 handguards, and looks like this: