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OP, watch this guy right here ^^^ - he's shady...

Shoulda built a .260 Remington AR. That's what I wanted to say, when I read your first sentence. Way better ballistics on the .260 Rem than any .308 Win round, lighter recoiling, and when it was SAAMI-approved by Remington in 1997, Remington touted it as the gun to get for "recoil sensitive" shooters. The .260 Rem is a hoot in the AR platform.

That lightweight, high-dollar race-BCG would make this matter even worse... The AR-10 Carbine Recoil System that JT linked is what you need. The real part, the real pieces in the kit. That kit is WAY cheaper than piecing this together yourself, but if you have to piece it together, I can give you a big list of all compatible, reputable parts that will work just like that kit does. Inside that $65 kit, you're getting a $40 buffer, a $45 dollar (minimum) receiver extension, plus the proper recoil spring, a castle nut and endplate. That kit is a steal.

Welcome - start a tech thread in the build section, and describe the recoil system that you are currently running in that gun. Also, think about that last statement. You built a specific rifle to suppress and hunt. No recoil system is too expensive for that, if it works... A5 recoil system (as in VLTOR A5) complete, will not work at all in a .308 AR. The A5 buffer is too long for carbine, too short for rifle, recoil systems. The A5 buffer is for AR15-based guns, with the right parts.

He knows Mark LaRue, too. Guess who called him and asked for a bunch of this lube... Yeah, M.L. did...

That doesn't mean that you weren't texting him tractor porn, brother...

Standard gas block on mine. I don't own a single adjustable gas block, in this house. You're only talking about a 0.010" jump in size, so just go straight to it. It'll be fine if you go slow with light pressure - let the bit eat.

Welcome, man - we'll get that .260 sorted out in short order.

Okay, it's a website-product-listing-glitch on the website. One guy here DID order three bottles, and the shop owner is aware of the issue - so the shop owner didn't charge him any shipping, at all... Here's the deal - the lube was listed under the wrong category (wrong inventory code) for the shop - this will get fixed, eventually, when website people figure out website coding, and fix it. In the interim, shipping is a flat-rate of $9.95. Doesn't matter if you order one bottle of lube or 20 bottles of lube. $9.95 shipping. That's the temp fix for now, until the website gets fixed for real. Hope that works for everyone, because that's the current solution. If you see something different in your cart, don't worry about it. Your shipping charge will only be $9.95.

Damn TRUTH right there...

I went 16" on my .338 Fed build. Details are in here:

What's the twist rate on those barrels they offer? I ask, because I shoot 147gr in .260 Rem, 178gr in .308 (and I'm playing with 195s), and 225gr in .338 Fed. All my .308 Win guns are 1:10" twist rate. The .260 is a 20" Wilson Combat 1:8" twist rate. The .338 Fed is a 16" Wilson Combat 1:10" twist rate. Those barrels stabilize my loads excellently.

I've never been able to find a chart, reference, or anything on it. Time on the gun is the only thing I know about it, differences here and there, what works, what doesn't. This is, however, the exact reason we started keeping track of gas port diameters here on the board, everytime we get a new barrel and get it working... Stick a 1/4" wooden down down your barrel before you start drilling. Go with slow drill speed, and light pressure on the drill. Use a numbered drill bit - ACE Hardware carries the Irwin bits, in numbered sizes. Don't use fractional bits - not enough difference between them to get close to 0.080". You need a #46 drill bit (0.081"). For reference: https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/numberdrillsize.php

That was a great video! Down to earth, simple terms from Ryan, always. At the 10-minute-ish mark, he was talking about ocular focus, and I want to add what I do. Most of the scopes I buy anymore (last 6 or 7 years) have a parallax adjustment on them - "side focus" is a common term for it. I always set the focus up on a new scope at 100 yards, at a defined target that I can see clearly (one of those sighter targets in multiple colors, or something like that). I set my parallax adjustment to 100 yards THEN I start tweaking the ocular focus ring, until I can see clearly. Not only are you focusing your scope to YOU, but you're "zero'ing" your parallax adjustment. SUPER IMPORTANT not to fuk that up. Let's say your parallax adjustment was almost on 500 when you set your scope up - and you adjusted the focus to YOU like that - your parallax adjustment, and the ranges on it, are worthless to you when you're out there doing it,with wind, dirt flying, etc. I like these targets the best, for this task: If you're red/green colorblind, they won't work well for you...

Your gas port diameter for that caliber and that length of dwell time need to be 0.080". Your gas port is too small. Your gun will eat any ammo that you throw at it after you drill that gas port diameter up to 0.080. I'm running rifle gas on a 20" Wilson Combat .260 barrel, so we have the exact same dwell time (length). Let's sort he gas system out first, and get it running. We mess with recoil system parts later, after the gun runs.

Working on it, so just watch this thread for results.

I should know what's going on with the shipping, by sometime tomorrow. I'll update after that.

Several years ago, right here, I told the story of that cat-asshead... Had a neighbor that had two boston terriers, and they terrorized him. He finally got tired of their shiit, and went over the east wall of the compound to get them. He chewed up one really bad, hit the other, and - WHAM! He didn't pay attention to the black lab that got him. He lost a toe on a hind leg over that one. THAT was when he realized that he now had to fight a Lab. The neighbor lost a leaf rake over the deal, trying to "shoo" him through an RV gate... TactiCat never had to fight a leaf rake before, so he destroyed it... It was ugly. Those neighbors moved out a couple months later, after I laughed about it... "You got 1.5 damaged dogs and lost a leaf rake - to a CAT?!... I'll BUY you a new leaf rake as soon as you BUY MY CAT A NEW TOE!!!" GTFO... They moved... That story is up on this board, I'm positive of it... I never got those pictures of that boston that I was promised, and how bad it's damage was... and I never got sued, like was threatened.

Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!!! Welcome aboard Jim!!! Let's get that info on that .308 gun up when you can - find those recoil system dimensions for me, and we have a place to start figuring it all out.

You're very welcome - and that's the skin in the game here...

Go hit the Intro Section and tell us about yourself, then I'll tell you what I see in the pics you've posted. There's some good, some bad... Hit it...

Go hit the Intro Section, and tell us a WHOLE LOT about yourself. This is a community, and we don't owe anybody any information. You've already gotten a great headstart on free-info, so it's time you make your dues. Here's a link to the intro section: https://forum.308ar.com/forum/22-introductions/

That's the sign of a weak recoil system, right there... I can almost guarantee you that Faxon didn't give you a gas port diameter that was TOO large - it's more the opposite, with gas port diameters - too small. If you opened it up and had that happening - your recoil system is the fault here. It's not strong enough. That 3.8oz buffer weight is Number One, too. It need to be 5.4oz. List your recoil parts dimensions, and don't get wrapped up by what I just said - but that's the problem here. Or, it's the biggest problem, right now...