ARdentFan Posted May 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 Thanks wash! Appreciate the help. Just wanted to make sure given the matrix upper :) much appreciated. I can now continue pointing and clicking over the weekend for parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
washguy Posted May 29, 2015 Report Share Posted May 29, 2015 (edited) Ardent here's a good place to start..they have decent pricing http://www.jsesurplus.com/standardriflelengthgastubewpin.aspx :) Wash Oh lemme spend some money for you...dont get that plain ol tubular handguard try one of these...make sure its the right height http://www.jsesurplus.com/midwestindustries308ss15dpmsloprokeymod-1.aspx and Mid West goes on the upper without drama :) Wash Edited May 29, 2015 by washguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARdentFan Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2015 Thanks for the link! They have some great prices on other parts I need. As for the handguard, I like the style (its not "overly tactical" imo) but it says its DPMS when I need an armalite barrel nut. :( Either way, I'll be ordering a few this and that things from them for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taffrail Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 (edited) Bought the Matrix set from Chris on Gun Broker. Arrives tomorrow. Just ordered the LPK from Chris. He assures me no modifications will be required. I paid $200 for the set, and $25 for shipping. The cheapest lower I had priced was $180 but I was just starting to look. In other words this combo sounds too good to be true. We'll see. Now about that BCG and barrel.......?? 16" barrel, rifle length gas tube......smooth as silk BCG......am I dreaming? Edited June 19, 2015 by taffrail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlazenT45 Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 I went with a 18" Mega Arm's barrel and Red Barn Armory BCG. The combo was $400 at Red Barn, I will say that I couldn't find any info on the quality of the Red Barn BCG's though. It looks well made, but work has been crazy and I haven't had time to finish the rifle and test fire it so I can't comment on functionality yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue109 Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) Picking up my reciever set Monday, ordering goodies tonight. Probably going to have to wait on criterion for the barrel. Edited July 4, 2015 by blue109 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildog Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 I to have the Matrix set up of the upper and lower i bought of GB. I also ordered the 18" barrel that AIM surplus had on sale and purchased a dpms compatible bolt to go with the barrel. Putting the lower together wasn't a big problem until i ran into the same problem everyone has of the spring being to short for the rear take down pin. The problem i've ran into is after tightening the barrel on and checking the head spacing with a round (i removed the firing pin first) the bolt will not close completely. Barrel is flush on the inside and the round seats good but the bolt will not close all the way in the receiver. Any ideas what i might be missing as i think my brain has shut off for the moment and gone blank......thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 (edited) The firing Pin has to be there to keep the Cam Pin from rotating .Should use Head Space Gages . Test feeding & chambering ,only with Dummy rounds , unless your at the range & the rifle is pointed in a safe direction. Edited July 4, 2015 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildog Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Put the firing pin back in and borrowed a head space gauge and as i see it, the bolt is about a 1/4" shy of locking up completely. If i take the gauge out the bolt slips right in......never have had this happen on a build before.,.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaseFan9 Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Put the firing pin back in and borrowed a head space gauge and as i see it, the bolt is about a 1/4" shy of locking up completely. If i take the gauge out the bolt slips right in......never have had this happen on a build before.,.... Did you remove the ejector and extractor from the bolt before you checked headspace? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guruofhotrod Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) Also, make sure the BCG, the barrel extension and the inside of the upper are lubed up real well, if they are dry you can run into problems like you are describing - mobil 1 worked well for me <thumbsup> edit: check the chamber to be sure there isn't any dried up machining oil or residue from manufacturing causing it to be to tight. Edited July 5, 2015 by guruofhotrod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) I check HS with the Bolt & Barrel Extension dry or at least wiped dry . Most HS gages you can keep the Extractor in, but the removal of the Ejector is mandatory to test with light finger pressure , they have a grove for the Extractor & it helps in removing the HS gage from the chamber , still others are made to accommodate those components & they will need no removal . What HS gage did you use , " NO GO " , " GO " , "Field " ? Are you sure the HS gage is good & proper Gage, we have seen bad gages here before . Believe it or not , it doesn't take much to damage a HS Gage . Another thing I have seen is , some NIB coated Bolts are real tight & require break in to test correctly . Edited July 5, 2015 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildog Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 I used a "go" gauge to test and it was with the bolt complete. I'll take the extractor off and oil it up as after reading more post on here i'm thinking that could be some of the problem. I think i'll scrub everything good and then "dip" the bolt in some synthetic oil i have and try the "go" gauge again......thanks again for all the suggestions and help.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Its the Ejector that will add its spring pressure to possibly give a false reading . You can take both out if you want , use a slight tap with a cleaning rod that is made of a soft material ( aluminum or Brass ) , if the HS sticks in the Chamber Adding thick oil can also give false readings , it takes up space also & the thicker the lubricant is the more space it will take up . Its all going to be a tight fit when in a new unbroken action . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildog Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I took the bolt out of the carrier and lube it up and using just it and the "go" gauge it locked up fine but with some elbow grease. I'm thinking it's as alot of people have stated it's just a tight fit and needs broken in.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted July 12, 2015 Report Share Posted July 12, 2015 I tackled the Matrix takedown spring area this way - cut a second spring and stacked them. i should have used a small washer to separate the two springs, but can't find a washer small enough. I doubt the springs will connect (spiral together at the ends) based in the amount of movement there is there. If they do, it's not a big deal, not a high-risk area. I figured I needed the spring to stick out as much as it does on any other AR15 build, which is about this much: I stacked the two springs together (detent and takedown pin in place), and just cut it off there. Looked right. Length on both springs, end-to-end: Didn't feel like drilling the lower to use a 6-32 set screw, so I just ran the 4-40 tap in the stock hole - no drilling required to run a 4-40, if you decide that. 4-40 set screw going in: Done: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted July 13, 2015 Report Share Posted July 13, 2015 Nice job <thumbsup> If some are shy about tapping their new Receiver , Brownells sells Compression spring stock & it would be an easy thing to get some & just make a longer spring , sounds like 98's total spring size would be a fit . Spring stock come in 1' sections , so you can experiment with what size gives the proper tension on the Detent & its doesn't have to be much . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted July 14, 2015 Report Share Posted July 14, 2015 you can experiment with what size gives the proper tension on the Detent & its doesn't have to be much . That's it, right there. Doesn't require alot of tension to keep the takedown pin in place. This goes for AR15s, too, when doing the set-screw mod - if you cut long, you're better off. Chop, install, find out that your takedown pin is hard as hell to get moving - NO PROBLEM. Take it apart, and cut off another coil or two from the spring, and reinstall and retry. Get it to where you want it - there is no magic number or length. It really doesn't take alot of pressure to keep that pin in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 Mods, please move entire thread to Matrix section - Love, Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Done.... love accepted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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