wetncold Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Is there a torque spec? I have never seen one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaseFan9 Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 I've wondered the same thing. I would thunk it depends on the specific muzzle device, as well as the length of the threads on your barrel and any timing shims that may or may not be necessary. I'm sure someone here can throw you some numbers soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 15~20lb/ft is the number for 5.56 service rifles. There is no spec for .308AR rifles - not anything that would be common across all brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Many mfg that use shims to time the device recommend hand tightening it to the 10:30 position and then using a wrench to go to TDC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolndie7 Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 I always time mine to line up at like 11:58 and then just snug it by hand with a wooden dowel or a pin and using loc-tite only if need be or if the guy requests it. Ive never had one back off and I never glue em on, but im spoiled and grind mine to fit ^-^ Sometimes it doesnt take much, On a 24 thread pitch one degree is about .00011" but using a crush washer you would probably want to stay near those numbers 98 posted 20ft pounds or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 I always time mine to line up at like 11:58 and then just snug it by hand with a wooden dowel or a pin and using loc-tite only if need be or if the guy requests it. Ive never had one back off and I never glue em on, but im spoiled and grind mine to fit ^-^ Sometimes it doesnt take much, On a 24 thread pitch one degree is about .00011" but using a crush washer you would probably want to stay near those numbers 98 posted 20ft pounds or so.You time it to 11:58 at hand tightness?I've tried timing them to 11 o'clock with hand tightness before using a wrench and every time I've had them work loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolndie7 Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 You time it to 11:58 at hand tightness? I've tried timing them to 11 o'clock with hand tightness before using a wrench and every time I've had them work loose. well not quite 1158 but you know what I mean. I never really crank on em with a wrench. I think it really helps if the mating surfaces are very flat and square. I did one and just kinda snapped it tight with a quick flick of my fingers and I couldnt get it off by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 well not quite 1158 but you know what I mean. I never really crank on em with a wrench. I think it really helps if the mating surfaces are very flat and square. I did one and just kinda snapped it tight with a quick flick of my fingers and I couldnt get it off by hand.I wonder if it'd come off if you ran a bunch of strings of fire on it.I had a muzzle device that I clocked to 11 o'clock with hand tightness, then used a wrench to get to TDC start to spin off during a carbine class. I was wondering why I felt like my muzzle was less controllable about 1/3 into the class and when I looked at my muzzle I noticed my compensator out of alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robocop1051 Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Instead of loctite, look into Rockset. It isn't as effected by heat, but also can be forced out by hand. My Ruger GSR has an AAC brakeout that is only hand tight (with shims), and the Rockset has held it in place since the day I installed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Instead of loctite, look into Rockset. It isn't as effected by heat, but also can be forced out by hand.My Ruger GSR has an AAC brakeout that is only hand tight (with shims), and the Rockset has held it in place since the day I installed it.Rocksett's no joke. My Knight's flash hider had that stuff on there. It took a significantly greater amount of force to break than when I hand time the muzzle device to 10:30 and torque down with a wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 (edited) Blue Loc-tite has been working for me & every thing stays there & comes off with out much effort. I think that fitment has a lot to do with what will work & what won't . Edited May 8, 2015 by survivalshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsquared Posted May 7, 2015 Report Share Posted May 7, 2015 Yep. Rockset. I've used them on all of mine (mainly for suppressor use). And they don't budge. But they can still be removed if tearing down the rifle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Z5V Posted May 8, 2015 Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 Rocksett is the equivalent of blue loc-tite, in holding strength. If you can break blue loc-tite free, you can break Rocksett free. However, Rocksett resists heat up to 1100 degrees. Rocksett is soluable in water. First, if you can't break Rocksett free, then you can't break blue loc-tite free, and you need to man-up. Second, Rocksett isn't gonna fail with heat - you can put blue loc-tite through enough heat during a string of fire to make it fail. That won't make Rocksett fail. Third, if you can't break Rocksett free, stuff your barrel and muzzle device into a boiling pan of water for about a minute, and you can take that muzzle device off by hand. Oh, and Oven Mitt. Forgot the Oven Mitt. Don't burn yourself. <thumbsup> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaRKle! Posted May 8, 2015 Report Share Posted May 8, 2015 Third, if you can't break Rocksett free, stuff your barrel and muzzle device into a boiling pan of water for about a minute, and you can take that muzzle device off by hand. Oh, and Oven Mitt. Forgot the Oven Mitt. Don't burn yourself. <thumbsup>Un-Cure debonder also works on Rocksett. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRA Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Rocksett is the equivalent of blue loc-tite, in holding strength. If you can break blue loc-tite free, you can break Rocksett free. However, Rocksett resists heat up to 1100 degrees. Rocksett is soluable in water. First, if you can't break Rocksett free, then you can't break blue loc-tite free, and you need to man-up. Second, Rocksett isn't gonna fail with heat - you can put blue loc-tite through enough heat during a string of fire to make it fail. That won't make Rocksett fail. Third, if you can't break Rocksett free, stuff your barrel and muzzle device into a boiling pan of water for about a minute, and you can take that muzzle device off by hand. Oh, and Oven Mitt. Forgot the Oven Mitt. Don't burn yourself. <thumbsup> Thanks for this explanation. I will be using this soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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