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imschur

Lets see your MA-TEN Builds

136 posts in this topic

It just needs headspacing and its ready to rock.

Tried to build on the lighter side

Mege Ten upper & lower.

dpms chrome BCG

*See Site News* 18" barrel

YHM flash hinder

hogue grip

carbon fiber forearm

brownells low profile bas block

Ace stock

Bushnell Elite 4200 6-24x50

weaver rings (Burris was either to high or to low)

Timney 3lb trigger nice setup.

I'll bolt on a pic rail for the bipod.

Also the Mega already had two offspring already.

I finished them off tonight as well.

Now I'm broke but who cares.

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Looks good.  Can you grab a weight?

I like your broke comment. My receiver set is going to site for a while because of funding being spread thin.

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weight is 10 lbs 4 oz with no magazine 11 11 oz with full mag.

Hopefully the headspace gauges will be here Saturday so I can tic off

the neighbors with a little noise.

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Great job <thumbsup>. How do you like the ace stock? I'm getting one of the ARUL ultralights for a carbine build.

Cheers,

O

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This is mine. I haven't shoot it for groups yet but since installing the heavier hammer spring, it functions 100% with all my ammo, including the mil stuff.

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Jgun,

Is that a 15" SWS on a 16" fluted barrel? I'm guessing thats the BABC on the front end too?

I had a dream one night, and I swear your rifle was in it... Beautiful build!

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Thanks for the compliment ROBOCOP,

The rail is actually a Noveske 14" rail that I bought used, As I'm sure you know it's made by SWS, but the SWS rails are different lengths than the ones they make for Noveske. I actually had planned to use the rail for a rifle length gas system gun because it works out to be even with the front of the gas block on a rifle lenght gas system, but ended up going with something else on that build so I had it left over. The problem is that the rails I like ( SWS E1 and Daniel Defense Lite) are either, only 1 1/2" shorter than this one, or so short that they expose the whole gas block (which I don't like) I couldn't justify spending $350-$400 just to get a rail 1.5 " shorter. Maybe down the road. What I'd really like would be one of the Noveske 10" AR-10 rails, which would be perfect with my carbine length gas system, but so far have had no luck finding one. The barrel is a Noveske 14.5" Afghan barrel with the BABC to bring it to 16.5" barrel length. It actually has very mild recoil, but is a little bit heavy (but well balanced) at 11 lbs as pictured with the TR-24.  I'm actually very excited because I just got the word that the trigger that I've been waiting months for came in, so I'll finally be able to finish my Kaiser build with the ABS barrel. The only thing that's going to hold me back on that one is the optic. I don't have a high power scope and my gun budget is pretty much tapped out for a while. But at least I'l be able to try it out. 

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Not complete yet, but when it is I will have many more & better pictures...

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This is one SWEET receiver set....

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Rifle-length / Full length. Mid-Length and Carbine are not in production yet....

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My first AR and build

MA-TEN set (thanks D Branson)

Fulton Armory 18.5"  (thanks Jgun) rifle length gas system

Fulton gas block

JP Recoil Elminator

JP 15.5" FFT

DPMS BCG (black phosphate)

Bravo Co. Gunfighter Handle mod 3 latch

Phase 5 EBR

KNS Pins (made more sense then the c-clips that came with the trigger)

Chip McCormmick Flat Trigger (Awesome-its like pressing a button-zero travel)

Ext takedown pin

(drilled a hole and put a piece of leather through it glad I did for barrel break in alot easier with it)

Ergo grip

UBR Stock

Enidine shorty buffer

AR10 spring (cut down)

SS 16x42

Rings (Front cheap rear Burris XTR hand them laying around) looking for new scope

$13 bipod  <lmao> had it laying around. I think Im going with a GG&G since Atlas is on backorder

(anyone on this board wanna sell their old GG&G?)

Running strictly 175gr SMK's through her

Im waiting for the new Bushnell HDMR w/TReMor reticle to come out before I make a decision on a scope either the Bushnell or Vortex Viper pst.

Leaning towards the Addmount scope mount but I have to wait since the Bushnell is 34mm and the Vortex is 30mm before buying the mount.

But to be honest Im really liking my SS.

The more I look through it and practice ranging out my window...cars,signs,mailboxes,cows @ 1300yds yesterday... ;D the more I think I should just keep it.

I could get a cheaper mount decide on a anti cant device pick up a bipod and buy more ammo.

I still have more then enough MOA left to reach out to 1000yds with this setup.

Which Im really looking forward to doing but I want at least another 2 sessions with her before I start reaching out that far.

FFT was hitting the FA gas block so I sanded the hell out of the gas block it is barely touching now so Im going to order the JP adj block.

Put 80rnds through her last Sunday and Im loving it.

5 rounds then clean repeat....

that sucked but the JP Bore guide and dewey rods are AWESOME made things alot easier

Only used the bipod to mount/level/plumb scope so I shot off bags on Sunday and did not enjoy that at all.....f'n sand everywhere and the bags would shift

and fall off the support once in a while

Love this flat trigger its like pressing a button, no travel at all.

I also have a flat trigger on my CZ75b I have it set the same way no travel in either direction.

Simply press the button and Bang

Ran an FSC30 on Sunday and switched it out for the

JP eliminator can wait to see the difference.

Thank you for all the info you guys have provided on this forum

AL

Now a couple pics no pics of targets this time around next time for sure

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Nice build 49, good luck with it, How do you like the .308 JP brake? I tried a .223 rifle that had one and was amazed.  I think it's the most effective brake I've ever tried. If not mistaken, I think They might have even banned it from competition because it works so well.

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Thank you for the compliment

Shopping for a  bipod is driving me crazy...I keep seeing others I want to try out...

I havent had a chance to use it the JP brake yet.

I actually had a FSC30 on it the first day,it did an alright job.

I might make it to the range this weekend if not next Sunday for sure

and I will definitely post up the performance difference between the two.

AL

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Bipods easy. Harris or GG&G. While the GG&G is more pricey they get a lot closer if you need the quadrail mount for the Harris.

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I went with the GG&G Im glad I did.

Took her out to 565yds today where they had 4" & 5" gongs

Holy $hit I actually hit them. First time past 100yds.

Using FGMM 175 7.62x51(sticky dirty brass) then switched to FGMM 168 308 and started getting

more hits but that could have been because that was later in the day and I had shot 50 rnds by then.

The rifle,I seem to like the 168s better

Tried the gongs & targets at 1k-1018yds w/175s but I couldnt see my hits.

I need a stronger scope my SS is a fixed 16.

Could see hits just fine out to 565 and the JP Recoil Eliminator is Awesome.

My opinion it works alot better then the FSC30

I was able to see my hits but I did get to shoot prone as opposed to bench with the FSC.

Ill be sticking with the JP.

My Bobro mount will be here tomorrow thankfully.

My neck was getting a little soar from holding it so high with this set up

I think I am going to move the bipod to the middle of the

handguard and see what happens.

I hoping I can load it more being that the base has been shortend.

Anyway a pic for now with the GG&G

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That's one fine looking gun. Makes me want to build something similar. I need to put a UBR on something, and I've always wanted to try the tank brake, I didn't realize they made it for the .308's.  If you don't mind my asking, what range do you use with steel set out that far? I've got nothing like that near me (as far as I know)

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Thank you

I like the UBR but I think I am going to mod the rear sling plate by fiberglassing

on a 2" pic rail so that I can use a monopod like the PRS.

Or just get a Red Tac Gear Rear Bag and be done with it.

The range is called Manatee Gun Club in Myakka FL about 1 1/2 south of me.

The range actually goes out to 1018yds where they have 8" gongs.

You can put targets anywhere youd like for the most part all the way out to 1k.

At the 1k to 1018 there are several gongs(various sizes) and a 30" plate with a 10" circle cut out with a gong behind it.

The targets are set up in a 3 tiered format so that the metal at 1018yds is the highest. IIRC it goes 1k,1010 & 1018 something very close to that.

Ill take some good pics next time out.

Its shaped in a giant V so no one shoots straight out they allow you to shoot cross range because of the layout. They are real cool/friendly there.

Practically had the whole place to myself maybe 10 shooters there.

They have alot of benches

Cant wait to go back.

My Bobro/SWFA mount came in and she is done......for now.

Alot lower a much more comfy head/shooting position

Moved the bipod back cant wait to try it this way.

As of now it seems as though I can load the bipod more and there

should be less flex from the handguard since the bipod is moved back.

There is a tiny tiny bit of flex at the very end of the handguard.

Some finished pics....

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I like the UBR but I think I am going to mod the rear sling plate by fiberglassing

on a 2" pic rail so that I can use a monopod like the PRS.

Brother, have you considered doing something other than 'glassing in a piece of rail?  Reason I ask is because I thought about doing the same thing to the one UBR'd gun I have.  What I wanted to do was use the aluminum UBR strike plate, grind the bottom flat(er), then drill/tap it and screw in a bolt-on piece of rail.  Alot more solid that way, in my twisted thinking.  :o ;D

Available here, MagPul Part # MAG331 (for searching purposes):

http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG331/34

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... What I wanted to do was use the aluminum UBR strike plate, grind the bottom flat(er), then drill/tap it and screw in a bolt-on piece of rail...

I had this same thought when I read 49's post... If the strike plate were steel I would have thought about a weld. Grinding the strike plate flat would be the easy route. Although, milling a shallow groove down the length of the rail and then inserting the strike plate would make it "modular" and give it a tad bit more sturdiness. Drill and tap the strike plate as planned, but without grinding the "strike" feature down. Then you can switch back and forth from standard to rail, and not lose any features.

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Thanks for the range info. I get down to FL fairly often, but usually east coast not west. Next time I get over to the Sarasota area, I plan to check that range out. I've never had a chance to shoot at anything over 500 yds away, and that includes while hunting. The idea of shooting at steel out at 1000 yds, where you get immediate confirmation of hits, without having to check the spotting scope, sounds very appealing. Now the only thing I have to do is figure out how to get my favorite AR's down there. Not too keen on the idea of checking them at the Airline reservation counter. It's bad enough taking a handgun down.

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Then you can switch back and forth from standard to rail, and not lose any features.

I was thinking about a more solid mounting base for the piece of Pic rail.  As far as losing features, I'd think you would do just as much damage to someone by hitting them with a piece of Pic rail as with the strike plate's original base.  <dontknow>  Don't think it would ever come to that, but if it did the Pic rail would be just as effective. 

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Thanks for the range info. I get down to FL fairly often, but usually east coast not west. Next time I get over to the Sarasota area, I plan to check that range out. I've never had a chance to shoot at anything over 500 yds away, and that includes while hunting. The idea of shooting at steel out at 1000 yds, where you get immediate confirmation of hits, without having to check the spotting scope, sounds very appealing. Now the only thing I have to do is figure out how to get my favorite AR's down there. Not too keen on the idea of checking them at the Airline reservation counter. It's bad enough taking a handgun down.

Just ship them UPS/FedEx to yourself a day before your flight.

3-4 days later they are on your doorstep.

I was thinking about a more solid mounting base for the piece of Pic rail.  As far as losing features, I'd think you would do just as much damage to someone by hitting them with a piece of Pic rail as with the strike plate's original base.  <dontknow>  Don't think it would ever come to that, but if it did the Pic rail would be just as effective. 

Either way its good night.

Is there enough meat on the bottom of the strike plate to drill/tap?

The sling loop plate seems too narrow.

There is a cnc shop close by Im curious to know what the cost would

be to splash the strike plate and have them ad the pic rail.

Bring in the 2 pieces and have them cut it from one block of aluminum.

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Is there enough meat on the bottom of the strike plate to drill/tap?

The sling loop plate seems too narrow.

There is a cnc shop close by Im curious to know what the cost would

be to splash the strike plate and have them ad the pic rail.

Bring in the 2 pieces and have them cut it from one block of aluminum.

I think there would be - the screws wouldn't have to be large in diameter to securely attach a Pic rail. 

The machinist option would be better, but maybe just to duplicate the strike plate with a longer (towards bottom) flat surface (but otherwise identical).  Attach the Pic rails section yourself.  The Pic rail doesn't have to be perfect, just to attach a monopod, but I don't know if I'd want to pay a machinist to replicate one when they're everywhere, cheap.  That's alot of cuts.  Machinists have a basic set of rules that MUST be adhered to, additionally...  <laughs>

You can have it Fast, you can have it Cheap, and you can have it High Quality - Pick two...

* If you want it Fast and Cheap, it won't be High Quality.

* If you want it Fast and High Quality, it won't be Cheap.

* If you want it High Quality and Cheap, it won't be Fast.

Pick what 2 you want...

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