Shepards End Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 (edited) Hi everyone I'm new to the forum lots of great information. Here's what I have: rifle is DPMS LRT SASS set up with fixed PRS stock. I wanted to put a collapsible stock with kynshot hydraulic buffer. I screwed up and bought the armalite sized carbine buffer and a standard mil spec extension + dpms carbine buffer spring. My question: To fix my issue can I buy the longer armalite RE and armalite carbine buffer spring and still have my dpms bolt carrier function properly? Plan to shoot hotter hunting loads for elk. Does this make a difference in choosing buffer weights?thanks guys for your time and expertise! Edited March 12, 2016 by Shepards End Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepp Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Welcome to the forum from Wisconsin! btw I'm a Shepard too but I got to p's lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shepards End Posted March 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Thanks for the welcome, from wyoming! Great forum great people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 You should not have an issue if you keep all Buffer assembly components ( Receiver Extension ,Buffer & Spring , all the same group , be it a DPMS or an AR10 set up . Some here like the longer AR 10 system , but the DPMS system works also. There are other Buffers & Buffer Springs out there if you want to custom tune the Action , not to mention , Adjustable Gas Blocks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unforgiven Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Welcome from Indiana brother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shepards End Posted March 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Thanks a lot for the info Survival shop! Ya was thinking about an adjustable gas block as well. My ultimate goal is to lighten up my sass and turn it into a hunting rifle. I have already taken 3 mule deer with it but it's way too heavy to carry on a long elk hunt.Another side question since I'm kinda new to reloading for a semi automatic. Is it completely necessary to crimp reloads? I have seen mixed info other places. How do people shoot non-cannelured match bullets? Do ya just put a light crimp on these?Born and raised on bolt guns and black powder muzzleloaders. Kinda new to ARs. Thank you everyone for the warm welcomes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtallen83 Posted March 13, 2016 Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 I've tried it both ways and not had any issues with setback from recoil. I did shrink the expander a bit by spinning it on some emery paper so I would have a bit more neck tension when not crimping, I ALWAYS start on the lower end of the suggested charges in the book to avoid any pressure issues crimp or no crimp. No matter what I did I kept having issues crimping with my Hornady die, crushed the shoulders. The Lee factory crimp die has been idiot proof for me on all bullet types I've tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shepards End Posted March 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2016 Hey thanks a lot. Great idea with the expander. I'm using an rcbs die. Have had trouble with shoulder crush with other calibers expecially wth my 6mm rem. but it has naturally soft shoulders. But with time and patience I have had no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Hunting ammo , I always put a crimp on it , I went back to a Taper Crimp ( with or with out a Cannelure), I was noticing case neck damage with the Lee Factory crimp , it leaves a ring around it & IMO would shorten an already short case length . Taper crime is hard to screw up a case , only a light crimp is required to press the case mouth uniformity around the Bullet , another benefit of a Taper Crimp is Bullet alignment with the case . Problem with crushing the shoulder of the case when crimping is all operator error . I did it a lot when I first started reloading for the .223 , till I went to Taper Crimp , but I guess you can set back the shoulder if you crimp too much on that also . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shepards End Posted March 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Thanks good to know on the crimp. "A light crimp is ok on a non cannelured bullet." Glad because I have a some nosler partitions that I hoped to use. Appreciate the info guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtallen83 Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 9 hours ago, survivalshop said: Hunting ammo , I always put a crimp on it , I went back to a Taper Crimp ( with or with out a Cannelure), I was noticing case neck damage with the Lee Factory crimp , it leaves a ring around it & IMO would shorten an already short case length . Taper crime is hard to screw up a case , only a light crimp is required to press the case mouth uniformity around the Bullet , another benefit of a Taper Crimp is Bullet alignment with the case . Problem with crushing the shoulder of the case when crimping is all operator error . I did it a lot when I first started reloading for the .223 , till I went to Taper Crimp , but I guess you can set back the shoulder if you crimp too much on that also . Any idea what the difference is on RCBS and Hornady dies on the crimp? I never had an issue with RCBS dies when I loaded for a 25-06 and 22-250 but I bought Hornady 308 dies and had lots of problems getting the die adjusted for the crimp. Went to the Lee die for crimping and the issue went away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survivalshop Posted March 14, 2016 Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 I Crimp on a separate operation from seating the Bullet , I have seen issues where crimping & seating can cause issues . Also Case length has to be uniform from case to case for a traditional roll crimp to set correctly , a Taper crimp doesn't have that same issue , you will feel it more or less stop, its like putting a wedge into the Die. Case brand has a lot to do with it also , case thickness can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer & sometimes even with the same manufacturer . All Crimping should be done using feel more than mechanical stop . The Collet type Lee factory crimp , crimps in a different way then a Roll crimp & the way you set it up is how it sets max crimp . I have nothing against the Lee , it puts a good crimp & if set right , is uniform . My concern is that looking at cases that were crimped on non- cannelure Bullets is I can actually see a line where the crimp was after resizing , on the inside of the case & to me that may have weakened the case . Case mouth separation will ruin your range day . I have tested many different crimps & non crimped cases & found the Taper Crimp gives me the most uniform Ballistics then other crimping methods . With an auto fed firearm I want some kind of crimp , just neck tension , to me is not enough . How do you know any Bullet stays where you set it at when fed & fired , well , you don't , but having a Crimp will at least add to the safety factor that the Bullet won't be set back , more so than just Neck Tension . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikedaddyH Posted March 15, 2016 Report Share Posted March 15, 2016 Welcome from AZ ! I use Lee Factory Crimp dies on all of my rifle rounds. A light crimp only, you will have to get a feel for the pressure needed. Must be consistent ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
392heminut Posted March 16, 2016 Report Share Posted March 16, 2016 8 hours ago, MikedaddyH said: I use Lee Factory Crimp dies on all of my rifle rounds. A light crimp only, you will have to get a feel for the pressure needed. Must be consistent ! I do the same thing as Mike and it has always worked well for all my rifle reloads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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