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Setting toe...4x4


blue109

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Just swapped in new tie rods and sway bar links. Any tips for setting toe? I'm eyeballing and using a string and a line on my driveway but wondering if any of you OGs know any tricks? i don't want to pay for an alignment if I can get it close because I'm doing control arms soon and I'll be pulling it all apart for that.

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Take a 2X4 and drive a 16d nail all the way through it. Jack up each front tire and use the nail as a scribe on each tire and spin the tire to scribe a line all the way around the tread. Set the vehicle back down and get someone to help you measure the distance between the scribed lines at the front and back of the tires. The difference is your toe-in (or toe-out as the case may be). You should move the vehicle backwards and forwards to settle the tires after setting it back on the ground before measuring.

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I set a long piece of 1" x 1" square tubIng on two buckets in

Front of the tires (jacked just high enough to rotate the tires) and put a strip of masking tape on the tires even with the center of each tire and put a mark on the tape and the square tubing. Then place the buckets and tubing behind the tires rotate the tires and line up the mark on the tires this will show the difference between front and back of the tires (toe in or toe out.

 

Edited by mrmackc
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Tires are already cooked from letting it go so Iong so I want to fix more crap before I give it the final alignment. It definitely needs to be on the ground under weight to check it. It moves alot when it's lifted up. Found some long 2x4s in the shed and they are helping me eyeball it. Been circling the block after every adjustment lol. Getting to be a pain but it feels and looks pretty good at the moment.  Doing plugs and wires and rad hoses now. I only paid $800 for this thing and rockauto has stupid cheap clearance parts for it  so it's turning into a nice little beater.

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I can get that measurement to 0 and still be off if both front wheels are turned the same way. I was using the long ones on the outside to get the fronts oriented the same as the rears. I think it's decent. Drove around a little and it's not twitchy or pulling me around. Well see how the drive to work goes. 

 

New issue is the plug holes are so full of dirt I can't get a socket on them lol. Worked 6 days this week so I'm going to wait till next weekend for that fun.

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6 hours ago, 392heminut said:

Mrmackc, a control arm suspension will change toe-in a LOT throughout it's travel range. The vehicle needs to be on the ground at normal ride height to get a true toe reading. I did alignments for several years and learned a few things.:thumbup:

Actually it depends upon how you lift the front axle, instead of lifting the vehicle just push it forward and mark the tires in front then push the vehicle back 1/2 a revolution, the idea is too get a measurement between the tires when in front and compare that measurements between when the marks are in front to the one with the mark in the rear. If the measurement in the rear is longer you have toe in.it should have about 3/8" to 5/8" toe in, never toe out.

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On 11/20/2016 at 6:14 PM, mrmackc said:

Actually it depends upon how you lift the front axle, and instead of lifting the vehicle just push it forward and mark the tires in front then push the vehicle back 1/2 a revolution.

You're contradicting yourself, first you say "Actually it depends upon how you lift the front axle", then you say " instead of lifting the vehicle just push it forward".In your original post you said " (jacked just high enough to rotate the tires) " and I pointed out that the vehicle needed to be on the ground to get the true toe-in. Also, if you put 3/8" to 5/8" toe-in on a vehicle it will chew up the tires in a very short period of time and probably wander all over the place! Toe-in in a rear wheel drive vehicle is usually only 1/8" and on some  front wheel drive vehicles it can even be zero!

Edited by 392heminut
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