Jump to content
308AR.com Community
  • Visit Aero Precision
  • Visit Brownells
  • Visit EuroOptic
  • Visit Site
  • Visit Beachin Tactical
  • Visit Rainier Arms
  • Visit Ballistic Advantage
  • Visit Palmetto State Armory
  • Visit Cabelas
  • Visit Sportsmans Guide

Newest Project -- "Building" (Converting) A Workbench


COBrien

Recommended Posts

Okay, I've finally decided to bite the bullet and set up my garage workbench in a way that's more suitable to building rifles.

I've had one of these for awhile now. Well, it's that setup, but it's got a 5/8" particle board work surface (actually 22ish" x 45ish"). IMO, not suitable for any sort of vise work.

I also have had a Cracker Jack 4" bench vise for, well, most of my life. But I haven't mounted it to this workbench because, well, particle board.

So... Today, on my way back from a hearing in OKC, I swung by a Lowe's. And picked up a couple of 3/4" maple plywood panels, 2'x4'. Will be cutting those down, gluing and screwing them together (to give me ~1-1/2" of thickness), then securing them to the workbench. I'm thinking 1-1/4" deck screws around the edge, with fender washers to hold them to the metal lip inside the bench frame.

Next up will be a Wilton 4" light duty vise. It's probably not all that much better than what I have, but it's American made and appears to be sturdy. That will be mounted with nuts, bolts, and the biggest damned fender washers I can find. The vise and a pair of magnetic nylon jaw covers should get here Saturday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would suggest forgoing the wood screws and drill holes and go with some bolts to hold down the vise base. And if you are really paranoid.......well, a metal plate (drilled with a matching hole pattern to the vise of course ) under there for security. More surface area to add to security of vise.

1/4 inch bolts will work, and will not loosen up like wood screws will with time. Some loctite and lock washers will go a long way on those bolts.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to be clear, I wasn’t planning on using wood screws (or even lag bolts) to hold the vise to the work surface. 

Once I get the vise in hand, I’ll find the largest diameter bolts that will fit through the holes in its base, and had planned on large fender washers underneath, along with nuts and Loctite. 

The wood screws would only be used for keeping the work surface attached to the metal frame of the bench, with fender washers (I was picturing 2-3 on each end, 4 on the front, and 4 on the rear). 

Thinking about it now, though, I could probably find some steel strap and do the same thing, but run it continuously around the perimeter underneath. 

I do see what you’re saying about sandwiching the frame with another piece of 3/4” ply underneath. 

And now I’m sitting here wondering if putting one piece of the 3/4” that I already have on top, and the other underneath (making my “sandwich” with just 2 pieces, rather than adding a third), would be a better option than what I’d originally planned. 

OR — I could utilize the 5/8” particle board top I already have, that’s already cut to size.

Edited by COBrien
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3/4” maple ply on top, glued & screwed to the 5/8” particle board, with 3/4” maple ply underneath to sandwich the metal frame. 

Plywood installed from underneath fastened to top (again, 3/4” on top of 5/8”) with numerous HD deck screws. Screws long enough to reach at least halfway through top 3/4” plywood panel. 

How’s that sounding?

Edited by COBrien
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My directions weren't clear.

 

Wood screws and glue to laminate your plywood if that is what you want, but bolts to attach to bench top. ....not just vise, but whole vise mount block AND vice.  use bolts for plywood mount block to bench and also run long enough bolts through whole assembly (vice, laminated pieces, and bench) ....overkill mayhaps, but the weak point is now your bench and what you have it attached to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have purchased bolts long enough to run through dimensional lumber and worktops, it makes for solid mounting of tools, period.

 

If you can't find/don't want to purchase long bolts....buy a long enough section of "ready rod" (one long threaded rod) and make your own bolts to use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, bubbas4570 said:

My directions weren't clear.

 

Wood screws and glue to laminate your plywood if that is what you want, but bolts to attach to bench top. ....not just vise, but whole vise mount block AND vice.  use bolts for plywood mount block to bench and also run long enough bolts through whole assembly (vice, laminated pieces, and bench) ....overkill mayhaps, but the weak point is now your bench and what you have it attached to.

Gotcha. Biggest problem is that this frame is light-ish gauge steel, and the lip the work surface sits on is approx. 1/4" all the way around -- not much material to drill & bolt through.

That's why I was thinking of sandwiching the frame between the fiberboard and plywood all the way around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And one more thing, if you make one, do NOT go deep on top depth. More real estate on benchtop is not always better. Figure what is needed, and use that. More space allows for for clutter accumulation.

 

This is how it works for me, you may differ in accumulation of craps on benchtop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m committed to making this one do for now — but I’ll be building something better once we get to our “forever home” and I have an actual shop...

Attached pics are what I have under the workbench top. Don’t mind what’s in the drawers — I had to clear the top before I could remove it...

I have about 3/4” on the perimeter to bolt to, and about 5/8” in the center rib on each side. 

Also, my idea of having a nice, continuous sheet of plywood underneath to sandwich everything together is shot. 

I’m open to suggestions (that don’t include “scrap it,” “sell it,” “build from scratch,” etc., because that’s just not in the cards right now).

290C984F-1354-4E11-AB3D-81495C657AD5.jpeg

DA64575A-4EB7-408A-AA73-C3D1EE73872E.jpeg

BF2FAF78-B434-4808-A295-46FBBFF3B018.jpeg

5B6F510B-E0F8-41A9-8DF2-F689D5D7DACD.jpeg

1625D954-FB6B-49BE-A06F-5DD171863785.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i would have just added to the top that was already secured to it if it was sound and not rotten. get you some metal tapping screws and re fit the og top. then double that for the vice. your vice will most likley see downward pressure. you could always use a good wood glue and screws to laminate the two plys.. but not nessary. if it was a floor you walked on every day sure. keeps the sqweek at bay! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, sketch said:

i would have just added to the top that was already secured to it if it was sound and not rotten. get you some metal tapping screws and re fit the og top. then double that for the vice. your vice will most likley see downward pressure. you could always use a good wood glue and screws to laminate the two plys.. but not nessary. if it was a floor you walked on every day sure. keeps the sqweek at bay! 

The original top wasn’t secured, just sitting in place. 

Since I have the material, I’m thinking laminating the two pieces of 3/4” ply together, drilling holes in the metal, and running deck screws up from underneath is going to be the simplest way to get this done. 

No sense in complicating things...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting closer to being done with this little project...

I got my 3/4" sheets glued together on Sunday -- clamped them and let them sit until last night (I know that's longer than necessary, but that's how long it took to get back to it...). Went to cut them down to size, only to find I'd purchased the wrong size blade for my circular saw. What I wanted was a 40-tooth blade, what I had was a worn 20-tooth blade. Dammit.

Not being one to wait (and working on a shortened schedule -- more on that in a bit), I went ahead and made do with what I had, I just took it slow. Came out great, fits perfectly.

Also drilled the holes in the bench and drilled pilot holes in the plywood. Marked my vise location and have it ready to drill those holes, but I had to pack it in for the night.

All this work is being done while the wife is in SC handling some family matters. So it's just me, the kiddo (17 m/o), and the dogs at the house. Which means no work gets done (with saws, screws, etc.) until the youngern is asleep at 8:30. My goal is to have the bench completed and her rifle mostly assembled (sans gas tube -- SLR needs to hurry up) before she returns Thursday.

So the bench gets completed tonight, and the rifle work begins tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...