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Whoas and sadness with my first AR


jlaw

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ok, that gas block should not be moving. jlaw, at this point cmmg needs to be getting a phone call, and you should NOT be having to work on this problem with a new rifle, twice. look man, you have gone through way more than anyone should have to so far, now they need to take responsibility for a faulty product. if you decide to fix this yourself, i would buy a new gas block, and install it yourself because i believe the one you have is a piece of shit. sorry for the language. i'm have no doubt others will have something to say, but that is my advice.

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Yes sir. I had this problem to start with. pushed it back, lined it up, tightened it down. Its moved a bunch. It pissed out carbon everywhere. Can't see to good in the pic. Why do my pictures always post sideways and upside down and stuff its weird ?  <dontknow>

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Brother jlaw following your thread sorry to hear about your problem.Just my .02 might want to take rifle back,you could mess with it so much they could say you void the warranty by your screwing with it [not to say it's your fault].You spent your hard earned money to enjoy your rifle not have a hemmorroidal flareup.Put it on the factory bro IMO.Good luck.

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I got it from cdnn sports. I spoke with them they have a three day return policy. So my only option is cmmg. Or gunsmith. I've been trying to find a gunsmith around my area... To no avail. Which surprises the poop out of me considering I'm on the largest naval base on the east coast. Lejune/ havelock air base area. You guys think ship it to cmmg?

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Hello all, I've been reading for a while but this is my first post, just thought it may help. I believe I just had what you are calling the short stroking problem, boy that sounds bad, it was a problem with the alignment of the port in the barrel and the port in the gas block, when I removed the block I could plainly see the shape of the hole in the barrel in carbon inside the gas block that was misaligned by about 1/3! I just used a small carbide burr shaped like a ball and chamfered the hole in the gas block and it stopped the problem, mine also leaks between the block and barrel and uses set screws to hold it in place. It works now but want to find a gas block that uses pinch bolts on the bottom like my Yankee Hill block on my ar-15, it draws down tight against the barrel and doesn't leak. Not a attempt to hijack and if I need to move I will but occasionally when I want to clear the rifle I physically cannot pull back the charging handle, I have to use a screwdriver covered in black tape to pry it back the first 1/8" to 1/4", any suggestions?

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No, I forgot, its a T.M.10 80% lower and the upper came from Ak/Ar parts kits, did alot of reading some good and some bad, but for the price and quality it seems ok except for the bolt sticking, it actually shoots very well ( way better than I can), would it hurt anything to lightly bevel the ejector? It scars the brass with a curved mark ( actually rolls up a burr) from when it goes into or out of battery and thought it may be my problem

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Lets see , where to start ?

Jlaw , You could send the rifle back , that's a good optsion ,. I would make sure the gas block is aliened( and that means right on top of the gas port in the barrel ) & use some red loc tite on the set screws & let them sit for 24 hrs..

This is a new rifle & once that gas block seals , it will not move or should I say shouldn't , because I have no idea how it is fitted by the factory. It really should not take long to seat , couple of hundred rounds , maybe more maybe less .

The gas block may or may not be the whole problem with the FTF .

texas30cal

Is this a factory rifle or build ? Problems as you describe can be a couple of things , rough chamber (DPMS rifles ), wrong ammo ( putting 7.62x51 into a tight .308 chamber ,steel cased into a hot chamber ,will stick if left alone for a min. ), not enough lube on the BCG. & or dirty chamber or head spacing .

The mark you are seeing on the brass, is from the bolt face ( around the ejector ) & can be dressed to make the face flush from a burr from manufacturing the bolt .

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I just got off the phone with cmmg. Ima send it in guys. He promised me two week turnaround at most... Either that or spend more money trying to fix It myself. I have spent enough. Who knows maybe my upper is defective and I'll get a free one haha  ;D .

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No, I forgot, its a T.M.10 80% lower and the upper came from Ak/Ar parts kits, did alot of reading some good and some bad, but for the price and quality it seems ok except for the bolt sticking, it actually shoots very well ( way better than I can), would it hurt anything to lightly bevel the ejector? It scars the brass with a curved mark ( actually rolls up a burr) from when it goes into or out of battery and thought it may be my problem

Not trying to discourage you in any way, but that's another company name for Vulcan/Hesse/Blackthorne.  Expect problems, down the road, seriously.  You'll also never get any kind of company assistance for anything, when issues crop up.  Just trying to forewarn you.

https://www.google.com/#sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&source=hp&q=Vulcan+Hesse+Blackthorne&pbx=1&oq=Vulcan+Hesse+Blackthorne&aq=f&aqi=g-v1&aql=&gs_sm=e&gs_upl=73304l73304l1l74205l1l0l0l1l1l0l0l0ll1l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=4c3fe1a9859f48e4&biw=1280&bih=717

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Ya I read some opinions about them, we will see, its definitely not perfect, but I like to tinker and learn so I don't mind much. I was impressed with the TM lower, used a a2 stock and timney trigger also very nice. I took the bolt apart tonight and found a couple of issues, the extractor was also leaving a impression on the back of the case because the cut in it that clears the o.d. of the case wasn't cut far enough to the rear, it was hitting the case so hard that it had broken the pin, made a new pin from a hardened dowel ,took just a very small amount out at the rear of the cut and now it sits just below the bolt face.I found that burr on the bolt face around the ejector hole and removed it. I also think headspace may be tight, it works better now cycling by hand but it is hard to close on all cases regardless of new once fired (in this gun) factory or my handloads. Holding the upper upside down with a fired case in it, the bolt starts to move to the rear easily until it tries to rotate the bolt then gets very hard until the bolt rotates then it frees up, and I can see finish wear on the rear of the bolt lugs like there is alot of pressure against the front of the lugs in the barrel extension. I know this is getting long but its hard to explain, I am using small base dies, and trimming cases, even new factory remington fits tight. What headspace gages do I use for this? There a couple of guys locally that may have them if i just know what to ask for. Thank's for the help so far.

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Brother survival would blue loctite be better than red? I think anything smaller than 1/4" with red if its not perfect,trying to remove might require heat,if the head doesn't let go first. <dontknow>

Socket set screw in that gas block , no head. How offten does one remove the gas block ? The red will come off ,because of the heat cycles it goes through. Blue might work ,but its holding power with the heat cycles would be questionable.

I have a PRI brake on my 20 " & only used 0.002 shim stock to alien the brake  & I got it tight as I could , but after a range session , I would find it loose . I called PRI & they said to use red, not blue loc tite on the threads & it won't move . Sure enough ,its been on for years & is still tight.

I always thought , that thread locker would just fry away( what I was always told ) , but ya learn some thing new every day.

Ya know ,I 've been told not to use red loc tite on aluminium , so maybe blue might be better , that is an alum. block .

Ya just can't go crazy on the loc tite ,no matter which you use.

Its good CMMG will take care of  jlaw

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