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6.5 creedmoor 1k shooting


Savageman25

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I actually had a matrix aerospace set that I sold. I never put anything on it. As for slr rifleworks, that's what the sentry s9 is that I had mentioned just above your post. They definitely look good, and as you can tell I'm a firm believer in "you get what you pay for".

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I'm just curious on the bullet you plan to use, a 123 or 142, or something else. Also shooting rounds from the mag or single loading. If single loading one could move bullet fwd and add more powder. The 123 being a .500 BC or so can be shot mag length and have plenty of velocity to go a 1K.

 

It just something to think about. Also if you try F class, a muzzle break isn't allowed.

 

Anyway, I was just curious.

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Plan to use the 123gr. in it. My original plan isn't to shoot in matches of any kind. I'm not saying I never will but as of now I just go out and plink so to speak.

To further elaborate on the 6.5 creedmoor plan of mine. I'm not worried about shooting further than 1000 with this gun. I mentioned that I was in the process of building a Grendel also earlier in the thread. After the Grendel is finished the next two guns will be a complete custom build 6.5 creedmoor and a savage 10 predetor max in a slr carbon chassis (savage for hunting). So to expound on the 142 and 123 bullets, I'll use the 142 in the bolt gun and then I'll see how far I can push the limits.

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Well, I'm an honest enough person to say I don't know for sure. I have an opinion based on unbiased research over the web. I have been self taught everything (using the net) and my own personal experience. It's hard to sift through what's overblown agendas for some reason and what has unbiased Marit. All that being said, if I were to base my opinion on one main thing (being that I don't have direct knowledge of what I feel is best) it would be this a very long but informative read. I highly suggest reading it in its entirety. Here it is http://www.angelfire.com/ma3/max357/houston.html

I know that there are lots of different calibers, weights, lengths, etc etc. But due to that read I I'd say the absolute best length of barrel for accuracy is 21 3/4 inches. I know you want longer barrel for more fps and such but I'm not as worried about that the majority of the time.

If your talking hunting, I feel it all depends on needs. My Grendel is gonna be an 18" barrel, and although I consider myself an accuracy nut I know that at my hunting distances those inches in the barrel aren't gonna matter that much to me. I'm still fairly young and hopefully in 20 to 30 years I can say with direct knowledge that what I believe, at this very moment in time, will be found true over years of research. At least that's what I'm out to try to do.

So the savage pred max has 24 in barrel from the factory. Not a big deal, it's for hunting also.

The custom build barrel is an kinda unknown but unless I'm persuaded otherwise it's gonna be a 21 3/4" barrel. That's the camp I'm in as of now. All opinion of course.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Here it is put together. Gathering some reloading components. Probably won't get out to shoot it for a couple weeks.

Complete build list

Mega Maten Ambi set

JP 6.5 Creedmoor 22" barrel

JP Benney Cooley Brake

SLR sentry 9 adjustable gas block

Rousch gas tube

Troy TRX extreme rail

JP Low mass bolt carrier group and enhanced bolt

JP silent captured recoil spring

Tac-ops Sniper charging handle

a2 buffer tube

Magpul PRS stock

Battle arms Ambi safety selector (standard and thin)

JP (Hogue) grip

AR gold trigger (308 version)

Atlas psr bipod

Aadland 34mm AR mount

Bushnell DMR 3.5-21 G2 reticle

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Preliminary results are very good. I wasn't looking for a group but it showed me what it's capable of. Went out to zero scope. Used hornady Amax 120 to start tuning adjustable block. So that is the mess in the middle. Then put in my hand loads and let my friend (who is a novice shooter) shoot top left target while trying to re zero for hand loads. I then got behind it and shot the top right target. First shot went to high right. Adjusted windage and then shot the top left hole. Adjusted elevation 3 clicks down (to much but I'm learning mils for the first time) then I shot that very tight 5 shot group. That 6th shot is the one just right and low of the very tight group. After that I clicked elevation up 2 and shot the final 2 in the mag. Those ones right at middle are the last two shots.

the bottom two targets were then shot by my friend again. Ran out of time or else I woulda got back up and seen what I could do after being completely zeroed for all 10 shots.

 

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Edited by Savageman25
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  • 1 month later...

Got a nagging issue.

 

The first time I went shooting I needed to continue to adjust my gas block out to get it to lock back. I tuned it, thought it was good and would go through about 10 shots and it wouldn't lock back. So I opened it more, tested it with one round at a time and got it to lock back. Then shot another full mag, same thing happened. You see the process I was doing until nearly out of adjustment. And that's when I stopped shooting that day due to time.

So, This is what I did last time out. I started over and tuned it just like it was not fired before. Get it to lock back. Shoot it about 4 to five times (single round in mag at a time to test if it's good because it's been acting weird) and then it fails to lock back. I then open gas block full turn more, repeat 4  to five shots, then fails to lock back again. I've done this until the gas block is nearly all the way open. You guys think carbon is getting built up? I usually can figure stuff like this out but it's kinda got me puzzled. I haven't taken the block off to look at it yet. Was wondering what you guys would say first.

 

For quick reference: This is an slr adjustable gas block on a jp enterprises 6.5 creedmoor 22" barrel with a jp silent captured recoil spring and jp lmos.

Edited by Savageman25
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So I think I found the issue. I read on the forum to set your gas block forward of the shoulder about 2 business card thickness. I did that which looks like it pushed the gas block opening way far forward compared to the gas port on the barrel which in turn gave me very very little of an opening for gas to enter the block. I'm unsure if this is because the barrel is made to that spec or slr rifleworks already factored that into the block. Either way I wanted to post my findings in case someone runs into a similar issue. I'll get back with you guys after I shoot again to verify if that was in fact was causing the issue, but ima betting it was.

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